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  #11  
Old 09-19-2013, 02:39 PM
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drschemel drschemel is offline
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Boat: 1990 Tristar 190 Sport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
there is no vacuum advance on a marine distributor......just sayin'
OK, my bad! I guess I never looked that close at it.
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  #12  
Old 09-19-2013, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drschemel View Post
OK, my bad! I guess I never looked that close at it.
No big deal.
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  #13  
Old 09-19-2013, 09:33 PM
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2013, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
I found that the vent line for the gas tank was clogged, so I wasn't getting the proper fuel to the carb. The boat ran and idled fine, but when I went to hit it, I got nothing. Also, check the fuel lines as well as the anti-syphon valve
I don't think my vent line is clogged, because every time I fill it with gas, it squirts gas out the vent.

I checked the anti-siphon valve on the tank a couple of years back and it was good, so I doubt it's gummed up since then, but I might as well check it...

However, my fuel hoses may need to be replaced. They look good, but as far as I can tell they are original (they say 1989 on them).


I put the new distributor cap on today, and checked on the advance springs.. Anybody know if this is right? One is a weaker spring, but is taught. The other is a stronger spring, but has play in it so it doesn't engage until the weights are almost all the way out. It does snap back to center as expected.. I'm guessing these are original? I had assumed the two springs would be identical, but I have no clue...

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  #15  
Old 09-19-2013, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hairlesshacker View Post
I don't think my vent line is clogged, because every time I fill it with gas, it squirts gas out the vent.

I checked the anti-siphon valve on the tank a couple of years back and it was good, so I doubt it's gummed up since then, but I might as well check it...

However, my fuel hoses may need to be replaced. They look good, but as far as I can tell they are original (they say 1989 on them).


I put the new distributor cap on today, and checked on the advance springs.. Anybody know if this is right? One is a weaker spring, but is taught. The other is a stronger spring, but has play in it so it doesn't engage until the weights are almost all the way out. It does snap back to center as expected.. I'm guessing these are original? I had assumed the two springs would be identical, but I have no clue...

The Prestolite uses a two stage systems with a heavy and a flyweight spring, utilizing the flyweight for low rpm operation and then the heavier spring takes over for high rpm operation. What you need to do is to check the spring operation is to use an advance timing light to ensure smooth timing advance, usually around 26-30 of total timing around 3000 rpms on a stock setup. If the timing is not smooth or the engine doesn't reach mid-high 20 of total timing the springs could be sprung. If this is your case you are SOL as replacements are not available. The automotive springs will just make you pull your hair out, there was a company on ebay selling nos prestolite distributors over the summer but I think they sold out. I would recommend a mallory distributor as a replacement, however petronix is cheaper, I have no experience with petronix just with mallory and I see quite a few threads about bad petronix so you do your own research. This is the mallory that I used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-9-26501, abit pricey but it's has been a great unit, they do make points style and different electronic versions.
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  #16  
Old 09-19-2013, 10:56 PM
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j.mccreight - Thanks for the info on the springs, that's what I needed to know...

I don't think the advance is the problem, I was just looking at that because I didn't realize it should be two different springs.. So thanks for confirming that is the correct original setup.

I don't have an advance timing light, just the el-cheapo one from harbor freight...

Even if this isn't advancing right, I don't think this is the cause of my problems... I don't think I'm even getting to 1500 RPM when it dies on me, so I don't think it would be advancing much yet.

And it seems to do Ok when I accelerate slowly to over 3000. It's only sudden acceleration that's an issue.
and seems to be mostly an issue if I've been sitting at idle for a minute, and then try to gun it.
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  #17  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:14 AM
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Have you tried putting the points back in it I had the same problem after rebuilding carb and switching to pertronix EI.
Switched back to the points and problem was gone Also look down the carb after u shut down the engine and check for fuel dripping out of the boosters. Mine was dripping fuel also after shutting down the motor which also was causing problems. Once I got the carb dialed in I tried the EI again and it started acting up again. Just something for u to check and think about.


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  #18  
Old 10-06-2013, 04:37 PM
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So I took it out two weeks ago after replacing the distributor cap.
It was running terribly, until I figured out that after the compression test, I let my family assist with replacing the plug wires, and several of them weren't seated correctly. After I pushed them on good, it was back to how it was before (idling fine, still having trouble on accel)

I also checked for vacuum leak by spraying wd40 around the base of the carb, but didn't find anything..

We had my sister-in-law with us, so the family wasn't very patient with me messing the engine, they just wanted to play... Put on the barefoot boom and taught sis-in-law to wakeboard. Then I took a turn wakeboarding, and after riding a bit, I did a faceplant. I don't really remember much, but when I didn't know what lake we were on, they took me to the ER. I suffered a concussion, had amnesia for a couple of hours, not fun...

Anyhow.. I replaced the fuel lines today, but I'm not optimistic it will make much difference. Old ones were original, but don't see any obvious problems.

I can try putting points back in -- but I'm not certain of the wiring... Wire from condensor/points goes to (-) on coil, and ballast resistor goes to (+) on the coil?? Is that right?
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  #19  
Old 10-06-2013, 05:52 PM
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[quote=hairlesshacker;983302]So I took it out two weeks ago after replacing the distributor cap.
It was running terribly, until I figured out that after the compression test, I let my family assist with replacing the plug wires, and several of them weren't seated correctly. After I pushed them on good, it was back to how it was before (idling fine, still having trouble on accel)

I also checked for vacuum leak by spraying wd40 around the base of the carb, but didn't find anything..

We had my sister-in-law with us, so the family wasn't very patient with me messing the engine, they just wanted to play... Put on the barefoot boom and taught sis-in-law to wakeboard. Then I took a turn wakeboarding, and after riding a bit, I did a faceplant. I don't really remember much, but when I didn't know what lake we were on, they took me to the ER. I suffered a concussion, had amnesia for a couple of hours, not fun...

Anyhow.. I replaced the fuel lines today, but I'm not optimistic it will make much difference. Old ones were original, but don't see any obvious problems.

I can try putting points back in -- but I'm not certain of the wiring... Wire from condensor/points goes to (-) on coil, and ballast resistor goes to (+) on the coil?? Is that right?[/QUOTE]


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  #20  
Old 10-06-2013, 07:10 PM
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1redTA 1redTA is offline
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Check the spring that controls when the secondaries open. Mine was broke at it would fall on its face at wide open throttle and eventually gather speed
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