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  #11  
Old 08-19-2013, 04:32 PM
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I had similar problem. Mine was actually something wrong with brakes. It was a long time ago so don't remember exact problem. My brakes got to where they eventually heated up. Lift tires off ground with jack and see if tires spin freely. It could be on one side or both. Air in lines can cause brakes to engage also.
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  #12  
Old 08-19-2013, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRW160 View Post
Right, I am assuming he does not push it using the coupler.
You're correct. I push it into the garage by pushing on the bow of the boat.

My tongue doesn't look like the one in Rockman's pic, FWIW. Mine is a fold-away with a chrome coupler.

I've done some more research in the forum and see there is a tab which needs to be pushed back on my style of tongue. I'm wondering if that is the problem. If that is the case, do I need something to hold that tab in place?

Another question I have relates to the fact that I leave the tongue latch "open" once I disconnect the trailer from the tow vehicle. Does this affect the brakes at all? I think I've always left that open when pushing the boat, but I'm curious if the brakes are set if the latch is open.
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  #13  
Old 08-19-2013, 06:11 PM
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The picture of the tongue I posted and the breakawy have no affect...same actuator in either scenario...sorry, just grabbed the first pic I found.

No, having the latch up or down (which goes over the ball on the hitch) has no effect on releasing the brakes.

Post a pic so we can nail this one down for you...
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  #14  
Old 08-20-2013, 11:30 PM
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Thanks for the help. I had a few minutes to look closely at the tongue and see what people mean by the "coupler being pushed into the tongue." This, indeed, seems to be the issue, as the coupler is retracted into the tongue.

I'm not sure why this has just started to be a problem.

I think that the reverse light signal is working properly, as I'm able to back up the trailer with the Xterra attached. I'm wondering if I need to do as JRW suggested - - - chock the wheels and roll forward slightly before detaching the boat to pull the coupler out.

I still wonder why the coupler is getting hung up, if that is indeed the case. It never did this before 1 month ago.
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  #15  
Old 08-20-2013, 11:31 PM
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I'll try to snap a few photos tomorrow to show what I'm seeing.
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  #16  
Old 08-21-2013, 12:37 AM
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Brakes engage when pushing boat in and out of garage

When I put our x2 in the garage I have to back up our driveway which has a slight slope. After I unhook the trailer coupler from the truck, I grab the coupler and pull it all the way out. That releases the pressure in the brake lines. Chalking the wheels then pulling forward with the toe vehicle will also work as suggested above.

The tab o the bottom I have used to flush the brake fluid or air out of the lines at each wheel disc brake bleed valve. Search for the UFP A60 coupler/actuator manual, this has a nice write up on the components and what they do.


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  #17  
Old 08-21-2013, 06:48 AM
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Check the shock absorber inside the tounge. This is supposed to push the actuator back out and create pressure outward while the weight of the boat overrides it to activate the brakes. When you use the car the reverse signal activates the solenoid that cuts pressure to the brakes which might be why it is ok when reversing but not when pushing by hand.
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  #18  
Old 08-21-2013, 11:53 PM
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I had a chance to check the tongue and coupler more carefully this evening. It does seem that the coupler is all the way out. The shock absorber seems to be fully extended - - - it can only compress as the coupler is pressed back inside the tongue (thereby activating the brakes.)

Interestingly, I was just checking everything over when I noticed that the plastic cap for the brake fluid reservoir on the tongue was very loose - - - in fact, it came off easily with just my fingers. I made sure there was still brake fluid in the reservoir then carefully tightened it down a little bit with a wrench. I doubt this would cause the brakes to rub as I backed in by hand, but I thought it was curious.

Next, I went to each side of the trailer and tried to rock the trailer back and forth. On the port side, there was no apparent resistance. On the starboard side, however, there was a definite rubbing sound and resistance. Now, I'm wondering if there is something else that I need to do.

Any ideas? I've worked on many vehicles in my lifetime and have done a variety of tasks, but I've never done anything with brakes. Do I need to bleed the lines? Is there an adjustment I can do?

For the record, this trailer is from 2004, but the boat was kept on the lake and in storage, so it looks like it has only a few hundred miles in it. The trailer has likely sat for awhile.
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  #19  
Old 08-22-2013, 02:41 AM
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I'm guessing the reverse lockout activated by the blue wire is not relieving the pressure or is stuck on thereby holding the pressure at the time it was tripped on such as coming to a stop to then back up. Moisture in the fluid may have caused the valve to stick. Just a thought.
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  #20  
Old 08-22-2013, 09:17 AM
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If your trailer has Reliable manufactured components there is a strong possibility that your calipers may be hanging. This was a known problem with the calipers supplied by Reliable and where part of a warranty replacement program.

I had this issue with my 03 MC trailer and was able to get a replacement set of Kodiak calipers from Reliable before they went out of business. Most everything Reliable sold was junk in one way or another. I still have their actuator on my 07 trailer and am doing what I can to keep it alive as long as possible. There are several threads about replacing the actuator with a UFP retrofit kit. Sooner or later I fear I too will be looking at this replacement and expense.
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