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  #21  
Old 08-07-2013, 06:54 PM
DAinAZ DAinAZ is offline
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Boat: 1992 Prostar 190
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I know it is a 142 thermostat because I checked the old one and new one before I installed it.

When idling and running the temp indicator is straight up. Not sure of the temp but that is what it has always been. (Ill check at home but I am out getting pizza now.)

I did take some pics of things. The dealer stuck in drains in the block, but not manifold. I was able to unscrew a manifold plug and check inside. Overall it looks clean. There was some rust debris I could feel with my finger at the bottom inside but not much.

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  #22  
Old 08-07-2013, 06:58 PM
DAinAZ DAinAZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
DAinAZ...have you checked the screen at the trans filter for debris?
I checked the water filter just inside from the intake. Is that what you are talking about?
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  #23  
Old 08-07-2013, 07:03 PM
DAinAZ DAinAZ is offline
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I don't want to hijack my own thread, but in all my reading today I saw something about how the spark plug wires are arranged and that it could cause some stuttering when running.

Below are some pictures of my plug wires all bundled together. Also a picture of my cap. It doesn't look too worn in my opinion but wanted another look.
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  #24  
Old 08-07-2013, 07:22 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAinAZ View Post
I checked the water filter just inside from the intake. Is that what you are talking about?
Nope. The trans cooler where the water intake come from the bottom of the boat.
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  #25  
Old 08-07-2013, 07:23 PM
DAinAZ DAinAZ is offline
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The normal temperature it runs at is 160. Is that hot for having a 142 thermostat in the boat? If I remember right it has always run at that temperature, but I may be wrong.
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  #26  
Old 08-07-2013, 07:24 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAinAZ View Post
I don't want to hijack my own thread, but in all my reading today I saw something about how the spark plug wires are arranged and that it could cause some stuttering when running.

Below are some pictures of my plug wires all bundled together. Also a picture of my cap. It doesn't look too worn in my opinion but wanted another look.
Attachment 99068
Attachment 99069
Attachment 99070
Use a flat blade screwdriver to scrape the build-up off the contacts of the cap and rotor.

Never had a problem with cross-fire and I have had ford engines for a long time.
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  #27  
Old 08-07-2013, 07:26 PM
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Traxx822 Traxx822 is offline
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You can't hijack your own thread. I have been watching it as I had the same issue.

Here is what was happening to me. Engine runs cool and perfect temp. At idle and at cruise speed. BUT!!! If I shut it off and let it sit for maybe 5-10 minutes when I turn the key back on the temp is spiked as the block heats up the water left in it. And some sensor somewhere would not let it fire up unless it was under 160. It would crank all day but not fire up until that needle was below 160

I spoke to my mechanic about it and he said he would look into it.

The next day he told me he disconnected some sensor and I shouldn't have anymore issues. now after sitting for 10 minutes it is pegged at 220 and after about 90 seconds of running it's back at 140 or less.

If what I described is what you are experiencing let me know and I'll ask my mechanic to be more specific.

I can attest it is very annoying to have to wait for your block to cool off before it will fire up.
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  #28  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:02 PM
DAinAZ DAinAZ is offline
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I just ran it and it is 150.


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The trans cooler is clean. Took off the hoses and looked inside.

It did look like more water was coming out the passenger side exhaust than the driver side exhaust. I could touch the passenger manifold and the riser was warmer, but could still put my hand on it. The driver side manifold was hotter. I could put my hand on the manifold but the riser I could only touch for a couple seconds.

In my previous post I said that I checked in the passenger manifold, but didn't look in the driver side manifold. Maybe the manifold and/or riser are clogged?
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  #29  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:07 PM
DAinAZ DAinAZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traxx822 View Post

Here is what was happening to me. Engine runs cool and perfect temp. At idle and at cruise speed. BUT!!! If I shut it off and let it sit for maybe 5-10 minutes when I turn the key back on the temp is spiked as the block heats up the water left in it. And some sensor somewhere would not let it fire up unless it was under 160. It would crank all day but not fire up until that needle was below 160

I spoke to my mechanic about it and he said he would look into it.

The next day he told me he disconnected some sensor and I shouldn't have anymore issues. now after sitting for 10 minutes it is pegged at 220 and after about 90 seconds of running it's back at 140 or less.
That is exactly what is happening to me. It may be because my boat is a 1992, but it still starts when the gauge is pegged up at 220. It cools down probably within 10-15 seconds.

I don't think disconnecting a sensor is a fix, but that may be the sensor keeping your boat from starting. I would like to know why it is doing this at all. It hasn't done this for the first 15+ years. Why now? (Probably because it has been sitting.). But I would like to know specifically so it can be fixed.
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  #30  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:24 PM
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ahhudgins ahhudgins is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traxx822 View Post
You can't hijack your own thread. I have been watching it as I had the same issue.

Here is what was happening to me. Engine runs cool and perfect temp. At idle and at cruise speed. BUT!!! If I shut it off and let it sit for maybe 5-10 minutes when I turn the key back on the temp is spiked as the block heats up the water left in it. And some sensor somewhere would not let it fire up unless it was under 160. It would crank all day but not fire up until that needle was below 160

I spoke to my mechanic about it and he said he would look into it.

The next day he told me he disconnected some sensor and I shouldn't have anymore issues. now after sitting for 10 minutes it is pegged at 220 and after about 90 seconds of running it's back at 140 or less.

If what I described is what you are experiencing let me know and I'll ask my mechanic to be more specific.

I can attest it is very annoying to have to wait for your block to cool off before it will fire up.
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I have the exact same boat. Should be a 142 degree thermostat installed. There are 3 sensors related to temperature. One is the gauge, second is the warning light, third is the for the ECM. The only sensor he could have disconnected that would allow it to start is for the ECM, which will make the it think the engine is running cold all of the time and cause it to run rich. My boat runs at exactly the temperature of the thermostat. I installed a 160 and the boat ran at 160. When I shut it off to change skiers I had the "no start" issue exactly as you described until the engine cooled down. Put the 142 degree stat back in and no problems. My engine runs a little rich but I believe it's due to a crappy spray pattern on my injectors.
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