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Old 10-25-2011, 09:32 PM
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pbgbottle pbgbottle is offline
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exhaust manifold drain plug removal? what size allen key are they?

quick question on the exhaust manifolds how do you remove the drain plugs .what kind of tool do you use. and in my case they look like they have never been removed .i am thinking i might have to pull the manifolds and use some heat is this a doable idea?
can i put heat to these things, i have never had them off yet and don't know what they look like on the inside .
i am the new owner of this old boat. ,i am also new to inboards . so i am learning as i go .

thanks jake
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbgbottle View Post
quick question on the exhaust manifolds how do you remove the drain plugs .what kind of tool do you use. and in my case they look like they have never been removed .i am thinking i might have to pull the manifolds and use some heat is this a doable idea?
can i put heat to these things, i have never had them off yet and don't know what they look like on the inside .
i am the new owner of this old boat. ,i am also new to inboards . so i am learning as i go .

thanks jake
allen key? what year...do you have picture?
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:07 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbgbottle View Post
quick question on the exhaust manifolds how do you remove the drain plugs .what kind of tool do you use. and in my case they look like they have never been removed .i am thinking i might have to pull the manifolds and use some heat is this a doable idea?
can i put heat to these things, i have never had them off yet and don't know what they look like on the inside .
i am the new owner of this old boat. ,i am also new to inboards . so i am learning as i go .

thanks jake
Jake,
I use a 1/2" drive socket ratchet. Works perfectly. I am referring to the exhaust risers and not the exhaust manifold. I presume you are asking about these two drain plugs (1 each side).

Not much on the inside per se. Just an empty riser compartment. Remove as gently as possible, as they should back right out. The trick to these plugs is to replace the plugs in the spring with new ones using Never-Seez and pipe thread tape. Tighten ONLY to the point of hand tight (even if that is still loose) and leaking water. Leaking is what you want for the moment. Then tighten ONLY until the threaded connection stops leaking water (once you are on the lake or start the engine otherwise). STOP there. Not one more twist, turn, or snug for good luck. The manifild threads often will strip out easily from over tightening, even the slightest. I also try to use new plugs each season (at ~$2.00 each), and the Never-Seez will make removal much easier next time. I use Never-Seez on all threaded connections as well as hose connections. It keeps the hoses from sticking to the connection and makes it easier for the next time.

Next thing to consider are the exhaust hoses. If they are old, replace them. They can collapse internally and obstruct the flow of water, creating issues with cooling. Use soft wall hose from skidim. When doing this it is much easier to remove the exhaust riser to replace the new hose. If you choose to do that, order 8 new bolts and two new gaskets to reinstall the risers. Again, Never-Seez...

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Last edited by Cloaked; 10-25-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:12 PM
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why would you remove those bolts to drain when the brass blug is lower than those allen bolts - for winterizing? There's hose lube you can get at autozone that is a designed for hoses... big believer in anit-seize as well....
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:18 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by mgorczak1 View Post
why would you remove those bolts to drain when the brass blug is lower than those allen bolts - for winterizing? There's hose lube you can get at autozone that is a designed for hoses... big believer in anit-seize as well....
The drain plugs are right under the exhaust hose(s) at the lowest point of the riser. Those are the ones to remove. Bolts on top are for the riser connection to the exhaust manifild. No need to remove unless you're changing exhaust hoses, etc.
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:48 PM
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i just took a pic for you guys .mine is hexagon shape ,wow! the manifold looks rusty in the pic . the manifolds don't look that bad at all .must of been the flash . gonna have to get some paint on them . i have not tryed to remove them .but they look like they will be seized in there .i have a buddy bringing me over a socket tommorrow to see if we can give them a twist otherwise they will be staying in for now.

what do you guys think .will they come out
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:44 AM
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Lumbergh Lumbergh is offline
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I had one that was so seized I ended up pulling riser and manifold and taking to shop to get it out.

Thankfully its easy and fairly cheap to remove / replace. I am using all new hardware to be safe and give me piece of mind (new gasket + bolts for both riser and manifold).

Its hard for me to let things alone that I know are messed up and can be taken care of with a little time and effort.

I read that about a quart of water will come out of the manifold plug. On removing mine, that seems like an accurate figure. Water sitting in a cast iron manifold can't be good and will definately rust.

I agree that new brass plugs every season might be a good idea. They are less than $5 each.

Last edited by Lumbergh; 10-26-2011 at 06:29 PM.
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  #8  
Old 10-26-2011, 10:15 AM
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:13 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Upon looking at your picture, do as another poster said and take it to a machine shop, however they will not guarantee any results.

Try soaking the threads with PB Blaster maybe...... then remove the plug(s) if they loosen up....

If you're OK with leaving well enough alone, leave it alone. There is maybe 1 - 2 quarts of water at most (in each). Optionally, open the chamber through removal of the riser (not my first choice) or remove the forward hose at the thermostat housing and pour a 50/50 solution of anti-freeze down into the hose and on into the riser chamber. Drain the remainder of the block (two plugs) and the J-tube plug. Pull the hose from the bottom of the tranny cooler to drain that, and it's a done deal.

Or fill the entire engine with the 50/50 solution until it comes out the exhaust. Another done deal.

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Don't be a boot licker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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Last edited by Cloaked; 10-26-2011 at 05:17 PM.
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  #10  
Old 10-26-2011, 06:21 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbgbottle View Post
.....what do you guys think .will they come out
No...

That is a nasty looking situation.... I'd let that b!tch sit until you start loosing sleep over it...
__________________
93 190
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Don't be a boot licker
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Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.
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