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  #11  
Old 07-18-2013, 03:36 PM
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TayMC197 TayMC197 is offline
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Pretty durable if done correctly. Be careful, a lot of people say they do it but cut corners badly. The shop that did it for me has high end equipment. That's one thing that drove the cost down, they could do it right and in a lot less time.

I bump and stand on my regularly, no issues yet.
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  #12  
Old 07-18-2013, 06:02 PM
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You could be courageous and refinish with Gel Coat.

My son turned a corner a little too tight and damaged a fender. Fortunately it was without the boat on so the damage turned out to be minor depending upon your point of view. It was a crack in the fiberglass which I mended by dumping some thin CA glue it to the crack. I was lucky in the fact that no real pieces were missing. Then I sanded the top. I filled the very minor divot with Gel Coat Paste. I ended up trying to thin the Gel Paste so that I could spray. It matches pretty good color wise but I got a rather dull (almost orange peel) effect. I've been letting it set so that the Gel would fully cure and then I'm going to try 1500 sand paper, followed by compound, etc - you know the drill; actually that is an excuse as I'm too busy using the boat this time of year. We'll see how it turns out but that is a project for later. If cannot get the Gel to shine I decided that it will be an off season project to just go ahead and redo with the proper Gel (non-paste) for spraying.
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  #13  
Old 07-18-2013, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TayMC197 View Post
...and stand on my regularly...
Not with shoes on I hope!
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  #14  
Old 07-18-2013, 06:11 PM
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TayMC197 TayMC197 is offline
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Originally Posted by GoneBoatN View Post
Not with shoes on I hope!
Yep with shoes.. It's a boat.. I grew tired of not enjoying myself due to being to strict. I actually have fun now, with my dog in the boat.. Lol
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  #15  
Old 07-26-2013, 04:17 AM
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NWMike NWMike is offline
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Boat: 1993 Mastercraft Prostar 190, 285 hp HO, 1:1
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I just finished a small restoration on my trailer this summer and it is much easier than you think. Major rust is another issue but for surface rust, grinding it down, hit it with a wire wheel and then treat it with Rust Mort (or equivalent) will neutralize the rust. Prep the trailer using an orbital sander with about 180 grit for the chip prone areas and undersides and about 280 for the tops and sides. Wipe it down, I sprayed an etching primer (DP40 PPG) and the next day I used a green scuff pad add some bite and sprayed 2 quarts of single stage GM summit white. Actually used my older siphon feed gun at 40 psi. Fenders I sprayed the same paint and then added chrome metal flake into the first layer of clear and then clear coated the fenders. They look great in the sun.
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  #16  
Old 07-26-2013, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWMike View Post
I just finished a small restoration on my trailer this summer and it is much easier than you think. Major rust is another issue but for surface rust, grinding it down, hit it with a wire wheel and then treat it with Rust Mort (or equivalent) will neutralize the rust. Prep the trailer using an orbital sander with about 180 grit for the chip prone areas and undersides and about 280 for the tops and sides. Wipe it down, I sprayed an etching primer (DP40 PPG) and the next day I used a green scuff pad add some bite and sprayed 2 quarts of single stage GM summit white. Actually used my older siphon feed gun at 40 psi. Fenders I sprayed the same paint and then added chrome metal flake into the first layer of clear and then clear coated the fenders. They look great in the sun.
Looks great!

You prepped/sprayed the trailer with the boat on?

I'm getting ready to replace my bunks with new wood + carpet and plan to do one side at a time, lifting the boat just far enough on one side to remove the bunk boards. Planned on hitting the rust areas while doing it - but based upon your restoration, I might plan on a more in-depth repainting!
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  #17  
Old 07-28-2013, 03:42 PM
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NWMike NWMike is offline
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Yes, and it was actually pretty easy. Just need patience to seal the boat up. You can get the plastic from the paint dept at Lowes. Very thin. A couple rolls of tape and you're in business. The rusty areas I took down to metal. Find a local auto paint supply store and get some rust neutralizer, some acid brushes to apply it, etching primer in a spray can if you aren't set up with spray gun. Or pick up a cheap gun at Harbor Freight. A respirator is a must. Tackle in the off season so you aren't rushing yourself. Best to do it right the first time.
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  #18  
Old 08-03-2013, 10:14 PM
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handleandrew handleandrew is offline
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take them off, wet sand them down and have them painted (auto shop) and then clear coated. prior owner did that on my trailer. looks great. as durable as paint on a car. no rebuffing problems.
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  #19  
Old 10-13-2013, 08:13 PM
horseshoept horseshoept is offline
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Originally Posted by handleandrew View Post
take them off, wet sand them down and have them painted (auto shop) and then clear coated. prior owner did that on my trailer. looks great. as durable as paint on a car. no rebuffing problems.

Makes sense. Seems Mastercraft should have done it this way in the first place.
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  #20  
Old 10-14-2013, 06:00 AM
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JohnnyB JohnnyB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWMike View Post
I just finished a small restoration on my trailer this summer and it is much easier than you think. Major rust is another issue but for surface rust, grinding it down, hit it with a wire wheel and then treat it with Rust Mort (or equivalent) will neutralize the rust. Prep the trailer using an orbital sander with about 180 grit for the chip prone areas and undersides and about 280 for the tops and sides. Wipe it down, I sprayed an etching primer (DP40 PPG) and the next day I used a green scuff pad add some bite and sprayed 2 quarts of single stage GM summit white. Actually used my older siphon feed gun at 40 psi. Fenders I sprayed the same paint and then added chrome metal flake into the first layer of clear and then clear coated the fenders. They look great in the sun.
All shrinkwrapped for winter

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