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  #11  
Old 07-16-2013, 11:11 AM
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etduc etduc is offline
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Originally Posted by jjbulla View Post
So I have a 1990 Prostar 190 that has been in the water for 2 weeks now. I live in the southeast and we've got a ton of ran lately (20 straight days). I've been on the boat just about every day during short dry spurts. Every time I get in the boat there is a couple inches of water in the engine compartment. The water pump has a small leak that I am going to fix this weekend, but I doubt it is dripping this much water into the boat. Anyone have any ideas on where this water could come from? Is there any chance it could be coming from the exhaust pipes? Whenever I dock it it sounds like water is getting under the exhaust caps. I can reach down and put pressure on the cap and the noise stops. Any help is greatly appreciated. I don't have pictures at this time but I will post them when I get them.
To add. Exhaust flap noise, when sitting is normal, no problem. The bilge pump, will not get bilge completely dry. Only way to do that, is on the trailer or lift with plug pulled.
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  #12  
Old 07-16-2013, 03:59 PM
jjbulla jjbulla is offline
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Boat: 1990 Mastercraft Prostar 190 Ford 351
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Does anyone have a picture of what the rudder seal looks like on an older prostar? I'm thinking that is most likely the cause. I'm also going to check the mufflers.
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  #13  
Old 07-16-2013, 04:02 PM
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http://www.skidim.com/searchprods.asp as a couple kits - they are very helpful
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  #14  
Old 07-16-2013, 11:35 PM
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My guess is it's leaking between the aluminum drive shaft stuffing box and the fiberglass hull. If you dry out the bilge completely, put the boat in the water and look around this area you will see water very slowing seeping in. Like a pin head sized drip of water oozing up from the fiberglass mat.
My 89 was leaking in this area, it took a while to find and was confirmed by putting the boat on the trailer and filling the bilge with water and then looking under the boat for water coming out. I checked all of the 'usual' suspects - exhaust, water intake, rudder, etc. before I found the true culprit. Once I fixed this, it can sit for days in the lake without taking on ANY water. With the leak, the bilge would have several inches just sitting overnight.
Here are some links:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=52945
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=54563
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  #15  
Old 07-21-2013, 12:24 PM
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d2jp d2jp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjbulla View Post
Does anyone have a picture of what the rudder seal looks like on an older prostar? I'm thinking that is most likely the cause. I'm also going to check the mufflers.
Here is a link to the rudder set up:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ghlight=rudder
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1989 ProStar 190 Power Slot
Somewhere between SML and LKG
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  #16  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:56 PM
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taking on water while underway

Hi, brand-spankin new here...I've searched for a while unsuccessfully for a thread that covers inbound water while underway but not while adrift, hoping someone can help. Just bought a 1990 TriStar with a 454. Checked the deck joint at the rub rail, looks fine. I don't know the condition of the packing yet. Any answers are appreciated. Also, how the heck do I grease the rudder? It's tucked under the hull's swim step. Thanks very much in advance. Scott
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  #17  
Old 08-04-2013, 11:45 AM
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Get a hose extension for your grease gun to reach the zierk on the rudder box... mine is under gas tank - not hard to reach without an extension hose a PITA.
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  #18  
Old 08-04-2013, 03:02 PM
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eurosysytem0 eurosysytem0 is offline
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Seen all the other responses. All valid places to check for leaks. however with regards to the bilge pump being on auto. It will only run when the water level is such to raise the pump float or activate the sensor. Its will then pump until water is lowered to a low level and then the pump will stop until bilge level rises again. You said you only have a couple of inches of water so there should be no problem with pump draining battery. One thing is for sure. You do NOT want water getting to a level where the starter motor and toothed flywheel (in bell housing are getting flooded!).

Two choices whilst investigating leak source. Take boat out between trips, leave pump on auto if you are genuinely only getting a couple of inches..

Little leaks can become big leaks whilst your back is turned.

As TT said, if it was me I take boat out, empty bilges completely. Dry whole bilge front to rudder post with cloth/tissue, Remove rear floor panel so you can see gland nut and rudder post, launch boat , wait and watch!
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  #19  
Old 08-04-2013, 03:08 PM
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Miss Rita Miss Rita is online now
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Quote:
Also, how the heck do I grease the rudder? It's tucked under the hull's swim step.
Quote:
Get a hose extension for your grease gun to reach the zierk on the rudder box... mine is under gas tank - not hard to reach without an extension hose a PITA.
You'll need to do more than that. You'll have to remove the doghouse, then the middle floor section aft of the engine, then remove the battery, then the fiberglass tray the battery is sitting in. Even after all that you'll have to stand on your head to reach the rudder. It's a PITA.
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  #20  
Old 08-04-2013, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Rita View Post
You'll need to do more than that. You'll have to remove the doghouse, then the middle floor section aft of the engine, then remove the battery, then the fiberglass tray the battery is sitting in. Even after all that you'll have to stand on your head to reach the rudder. It's a PITA.
Some have an extension hose that runs up onto the top of the gas tank and you just connect your grease gun there.
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