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  #21  
Old 08-01-2013, 12:24 PM
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kpickett kpickett is offline
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
This could easily be a grounding problem. If the alternator hasn't been checked, do that- the 10.5-11VDC tells me that either the voltage is low, the cables aren't conducting well (bad terminals) or maybe the bridge rectifier in the alternator is allowing hte battery to discharge. This can also happen when the battery cables and posts are dirty/corroded, but look fine. Measure the voltage at the battery posts/terminals, then at the cable ends. If you see any difference, address the cause. If you see no difference, move farther down the cables to the next terminal, one cable at a time.
Thanks, Jim. I will check this weekend. I just exchanged for a brand new battery, too.
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  #22  
Old 08-17-2013, 06:57 PM
wtrskick wtrskick is offline
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I replaced the IAC in my 97 LT1. I also tried the reset procedures but now the engine idles at about 1200 rpm and is running very rich. Anyone have any suggestions.

Thanks
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  #23  
Old 08-18-2013, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by wtrskick View Post
I replaced the IAC in my 97 LT1. I also tried the reset procedures but now the engine idles at about 1200 rpm and is running very rich. Anyone have any suggestions.

Thanks
What reset procedures? Key ON, WOT three times, key OFF? Running at 1200 RPM indicates that the IAC isn't closing completely but running rich isn't caused by this.

Turn the key on and listen for the IAC to move. DO NOT remove it to do this because the pintle will be pushed out of the end.
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  #24  
Old 08-19-2013, 01:14 PM
wtrskick wtrskick is offline
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
What reset procedures? Key ON, WOT three times, key OFF? Running at 1200 RPM indicates that the IAC isn't closing completely but running rich isn't caused by this.

Turn the key on and listen for the IAC to move. DO NOT remove it to do this because the pintle will be pushed out of the end.
Thanks Jim for your reply. The procedures I tried were discussed earlier in this post. I will try this when I get it in the water again.

Thanks again!
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  #25  
Old 08-19-2013, 10:33 PM
Grantw Grantw is offline
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similar problem

I just posted a problem I am having which started of somewhat similar to yours, but I was having the problem initially when the engine was hot and it then went to cold starting and now does not start at all. My problem is related to the spark being generated during the ignition cycle and am having a hard time resolving it.
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  #26  
Old 08-19-2013, 10:35 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grantw View Post
I just posted a problem I am having which started of somewhat similar to yours, but I was having the problem initially when the engine was hot and it then went to cold starting and now does not start at all. My problem is related to the spark being generated during the ignition cycle and am having a hard time resolving it.
Most likely the northstar ingnition module.. IMO
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2013, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grantw View Post
I just posted a problem I am having which started of somewhat similar to yours, but I was having the problem initially when the engine was hot and it then went to cold starting and now does not start at all. My problem is related to the spark being generated during the ignition cycle and am having a hard time resolving it.
If you have spark, open the throttle a bit and see if it starts. If you have spark during crank and not when you release the key, check out your safety switch and lanyard.
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  #28  
Old 08-19-2013, 11:24 PM
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JimN - what is weak spark - low voltage or current to plug? Like there's too much resistance somewhere?
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  #29  
Old 08-19-2013, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
JimN - what is weak spark - low voltage or current to plug? Like there's too much resistance somewhere?
Has the spark intensity been tested? That's what shops use those big Sun machines for- it shows all cylinders and if one/two (in this case) is low, a coil pack can be moved to a different spot to see if the problem moves with it. If all are weak, it's time to test the wires (if they're old) or look for problems with the crank position sensors (if the signal is weak, the ECM won't recognize it as a "real" crank signal.
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  #30  
Old 08-20-2013, 07:51 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
Has the spark intensity been tested? That's what shops use those big Sun machines for- it shows all cylinders and if one/two (in this case) is low, a coil pack can be moved to a different spot to see if the problem moves with it. If all are weak, it's time to test the wires (if they're old) or look for problems with the crank position sensors (if the signal is weak, the ECM won't recognize it as a "real" crank signal.
Thanks JimN... you're awesome!
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