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  #11  
Old 07-07-2013, 03:34 PM
Mookster Mookster is offline
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No joy, checked the ground at block, unhooked, cleaned up contacts, re-connected, still nothing, pops fuse at "accsy 2" when power is applied and bypassing the kill switch.

I am direct bypassing the kill switch (connecting the 2 purples), and fuse will pop. If I disconnect kill switch, I can crank the engine, but no spark and no gauges.

I have power on the purple wire going into the MDC, can the MDC be involved with not getting spark to the distributor? MDC has been replaced before with the exact stock part.

Not sure where to go next? Is there some sort of resistor or voltage change when going through the stock kill switch? I am using a 25a fuse, can I go higher possibly?
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  #12  
Old 07-07-2013, 07:51 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Mookster View Post
Thanks for the quick reply! Breaker at engine was checked (double checked), that was my first idea after checking the kill switch.

After further troubleshooting, we have found that we don't have power to the Coil, no 12v showing up on the 4 wires coming into the coil. With key in RUN position, or when cranking the starter.

Checking to make sure there is power at MDC now.
Did you check the fuses on the main engine harness? If you see nothing where you looked, it could be the System fuse, but I would check the charging lead on the alternator, too.
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  #13  
Old 07-07-2013, 08:28 PM
rand49er rand49er is offline
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Popping fuses means too much current is flowing. (Duh!) Sounds like a short to ground somewhere.

I wouldn't be upping the fuse size on anything. Follow the suggestions guys are throwing out here and be methodical in your pursuit of the cause.
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  #14  
Old 07-07-2013, 11:08 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by rand49er View Post
Popping fuses means too much current is flowing. (Duh!) Sounds like a short to ground somewhere.

I wouldn't be upping the fuse size on anything. Follow the suggestions guys are throwing out here and be methodical in your pursuit of the cause.
Doesn't need to be a short to ground- could be a loose/corroded connection arcing, could be something that's just drawing more current than normal.
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  #15  
Old 07-07-2013, 11:11 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Mookster View Post
No joy, checked the ground at block, unhooked, cleaned up contacts, re-connected, still nothing, pops fuse at "accsy 2" when power is applied and bypassing the kill switch.

I am direct bypassing the kill switch (connecting the 2 purples), and fuse will pop. If I disconnect kill switch, I can crank the engine, but no spark and no gauges.

I have power on the purple wire going into the MDC, can the MDC be involved with not getting spark to the distributor? MDC has been replaced before with the exact stock part.

Not sure where to go next? Is there some sort of resistor or voltage change when going through the stock kill switch? I am using a 25a fuse, can I go higher possibly?
NEVER use a larger capacity fuse. They're sized for a reason. The MDC doesn't have anything to do with the ignition system unless it's wired incorrectly after proper installation.

Who did the engine swap?

Something is wired wrong. If it worked fine before, it should work fine after.
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  #16  
Old 07-08-2013, 04:29 PM
Mookster Mookster is offline
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thanks for all the replies guys!

So it sounds like I'm going to have to take this sucker apart and check the wiring harness front to back, as nothing was changed when it died. I was mid acceleration on the lake, and it just up and quit. Gauges stuck in position, no power anywhere. Felt like a kill switch to me.

oh, something that I didn't remember, just came back to me. After getting it back to the dock, one of the first things I did was disconnect the battery, clean connections, reconnect battery, messed with the kill switch a bit, and that first turn of the key, The gauge cluster lit up, and reset the gauges just like normal, than about .5 second later, the fuse popped. That was the last time the gauges did the startup "buzz".

I am no longer in the same location as the boat, but my brother in law is going to check what connections he can get to for corrosion etc.
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  #17  
Old 07-08-2013, 05:27 PM
rand49er rand49er is offline
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
Doesn't need to be a short to ground- could be a loose/corroded connection arcing, could be something that's just drawing more current than normal.
Arcing? That alone doesn't increase the current flow, it just reestablishes it momentarily assuming the circuit is unaltered from stock.

No ignition might suggest an open circuit by itself. But, blowing fuses is caused by too much current flowing which means less resistance than it was designed for which usually means a short ... to ground (arcing to ground or not) or to a portion of the circuit that contains less resistance than it's designed for, the latter situation being far less likely.

Engine swap? What engine swap?
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  #18  
Old 07-08-2013, 05:36 PM
rand49er rand49er is offline
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double post
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  #19  
Old 07-08-2013, 05:44 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by rand49er View Post
Arcing? That alone doesn't increase the current flow, it just reestablishes it momentarily assuming the circuit is unaltered from stock.

No ignition might suggest an open circuit by itself. But, blowing fuses is caused by too much current flowing which means less resistance than it was designed for which usually means a short ... to ground (arcing to ground or not) or to a portion of the circuit that contains less resistance than it's designed for, the latter situation being far less likely.

Engine swap? What engine swap?
No, but the change from zero current to full current with a high-current device can cause a fuse to blow.
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  #20  
Old 07-08-2013, 05:47 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Mookster View Post
thanks for all the replies guys!

So it sounds like I'm going to have to take this sucker apart and check the wiring harness front to back, as nothing was changed when it died. I was mid acceleration on the lake, and it just up and quit. Gauges stuck in position, no power anywhere. Felt like a kill switch to me.

oh, something that I didn't remember, just came back to me. After getting it back to the dock, one of the first things I did was disconnect the battery, clean connections, reconnect battery, messed with the kill switch a bit, and that first turn of the key, The gauge cluster lit up, and reset the gauges just like normal, than about .5 second later, the fuse popped. That was the last time the gauges did the startup "buzz".

I am no longer in the same location as the boat, but my brother in law is going to check what connections he can get to for corrosion etc.
Before you open the whole harness and possibly find no problems, look at what was disconnected in order to swap the engine. All of the ground connections were loosened and re-tightened, the sensors may have been....

Look at the harnesses going to the distributor and IAC- if the one plugged into the distributor has a pair of green wires and a pair of blue wires (one of each pair will have a white tracer and the other will have a black tracer), unplug both and swap the plugs.
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