Go Back   TeamTalk > General MasterCraft Topics > General Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-24-2013, 07:28 AM
johnnye23's Avatar
johnnye23 johnnye23 is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Boat: 1979 Stars n Stripes
Location: Auburn Ca
Posts: 48
New guy in Auburn CA ,1979 S&S

Just picked up a 79 S&S with just over 900 total hours. Took it out on the lake after sitting for a year. Engine ran well but temp ranged from 180-195 too hot for my liking All in all it was a very successful maiden voyage.

Cruised the Internet and have thus far
1. Changed the thermostat out 143 deg,unit removed was the same temp .
2. Checked intake on boat,found clear
3. Removed intake hose at trans cooler found no debris,took a small stainless cable and probed
cooling tubes,no blockage .
4. Removed raw water pump,found impeller to be still pliable and fins returned to their original
form ( not cupped)
5. Checked belt tensions and verified circulating water pump was not leaking from the weep
hole.

Ran engine in driveway using fake a lake at idle (700 rpm) temp stayed steady at
180/185 degrees. Good flow out the exhaust ,could put my hands on the exhaust
manifolds . I had the idea to remove the hose on the pickup and I put the garden
hose inside of the pickup hose.Clamped and then ran the hose ( in my pea brain thus )
pushing water to the raw water pump vs it having to suck the water.Their was no
change in temp readings.

So my next plan of action is to verify temp gauge accuracy ( a tip I found here thank
you very much). If that proves to be accurate do a raw water flow test ( 5 gallons at
3000 rpm in 15 seconds) . If those tests all pass I will be looking for new plan .

Any input or advice would be well received, I know 180-195 deg isn't that hot but its not
where it should be . This is a great site and Im happy to be a member now.

Here are a couple shots of the new boat, Johnny
Attached Images
  

Last edited by johnnye23; 06-30-2013 at 06:53 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-24-2013, 05:16 PM
Thrall's Avatar
Thrall Thrall is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: '06 X2 MCX
Location: Eagle River, AK!
Posts: 3,825
Nice boat!
Ya I'd toss a new temp sender in it first and see what happens. Sound s like everything is flowing water adequately. If it did it in the driveway on a hose then it's not a suction problem when on the water.
If you ran it for a while and no overheat, engine or exhaust then basically everything is working as it should.
__________________
'06 X2 MCX

"I understand why some people may not want to do this the way I have recommended but I can't understand the death grip some people have on a toilet plunger with a hose fitting." -JimN
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-24-2013, 05:23 PM
thatsmrmastercraft's Avatar
thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 15,041
Welcome to Team Talk. Great looking boat you picked up. I see you were on the Tristar running hot thread. You could well be experiencing the same issue, and at least you have a guide to troubleshoot this temp issue. Good luck.
__________________
Peter

Tandem Axle Wheel & Tire Packages Starting at $569
4 Aluminum 14x5.5 wheels, 4 ST205/75R14 tires, mount, balance & delivery.

Single Axle Wheel & Tire Package $319
2 Aluminum 14x5.5 wheels, 2 ST205/75R14 tires, mount, balance & delivery.


CARB REBUILDING - FAST TURN-AROUND - $125 +PARTS
LED lights, Hubs, Spare Tire Carriers, Chrome & Powder Coated Lug Nuts - Red, Blue & Black


PM or email me tiresplease@gmail.com
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-24-2013, 05:49 PM
LYNRDSKYNRD's Avatar
LYNRDSKYNRD LYNRDSKYNRD is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Boat: 1987 PROSTAR 190
Location: Alabama
Posts: 482
Had a similar issue on my 87 sending unit was the culprit. Welcome aboard!

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-24-2013, 05:56 PM
thatsmrmastercraft's Avatar
thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 15,041
Ford oil pressure sending units are also known to fail and give wrong readings. I have had several engines I was worried about running low on oil pressure only to find it was the sending unit.
__________________
Peter

Tandem Axle Wheel & Tire Packages Starting at $569
4 Aluminum 14x5.5 wheels, 4 ST205/75R14 tires, mount, balance & delivery.

Single Axle Wheel & Tire Package $319
2 Aluminum 14x5.5 wheels, 2 ST205/75R14 tires, mount, balance & delivery.


CARB REBUILDING - FAST TURN-AROUND - $125 +PARTS
LED lights, Hubs, Spare Tire Carriers, Chrome & Powder Coated Lug Nuts - Red, Blue & Black


PM or email me tiresplease@gmail.com
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-27-2013, 05:37 AM
johnnye23's Avatar
johnnye23 johnnye23 is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Boat: 1979 Stars n Stripes
Location: Auburn Ca
Posts: 48
Okay update after I finally had some time to work on the engine.

1. Performed raw water pump test, I moved 5 gallons of water in about 12 seconds.
2. Removed gauge and sending unit and using a pot of water and thermometer tested
and verified gauge was indicating accurately .

3. Just for drill I removed and inspected all the cooling hoses , all looked good (will replace all
hoses while they are out).



So really all I see left in the cooling system I haven't tested is the circulation pump , any thoughts if this could be the problem ? I'm leaning towards just changing the pump for drill and
peace of mind. I would appreciate any thoughts from the group.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-27-2013, 01:44 PM
sam196370's Avatar
sam196370 sam196370 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: 1979 Stars & Stripes
Location: stamford, ct
Posts: 138
I have the exact same boat and replaced water pump, hoses, filter & temp sender. It usually runs around 150 but often gets up around 200. Doesn't make me comfortable either but I've put 100+ hours on it over the last 3 summers with no issues (knocking on wood). I think the gauge may be the issue but as long as it doesn't get over 210 I'm not going to worry.

Dearborn iron block....I think you'll be ok.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-27-2013, 07:23 PM
johnnye23's Avatar
johnnye23 johnnye23 is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Boat: 1979 Stars n Stripes
Location: Auburn Ca
Posts: 48
I'm crying Uncle... Replaced all hoses ,started motor and it ran at 185 . Removed circulating pump and it feels great ,smooth and it is indeed a marine water pump.
My plan is to install a new temp gauge and sender and call it a day.I can find no problems in the cooling system . In desperation I am hoping new temp gauge will read lower...

And by the way the more I look at this boat the more I love it ! Damn boats lol
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:49 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnye23 View Post
I'm crying Uncle... Replaced all hoses ,started motor and it ran at 185 . Removed circulating pump and it feels great ,smooth and it is indeed a marine water pump.
My plan is to install a new temp gauge and sender and call it a day.I can find no problems in the cooling system . In desperation I am hoping new temp gauge will read lower...

And by the way the more I look at this boat the more I love it ! Damn boats lol
There are still a few places to check before I'd go replacing gauges. Sender? maybe...... but I'd check two more nooks....

Exhaust hoses (internally) and the very depths of the crevices in the cooling configuration...

Look inside of every corner of the j-tube configuration, the raw water pump housing, and the thermostat housing... you're looking for bits of an old / wrecked impeller. Those pieces can be trapped in the smallest places. Use a light and a small inspection mirror plus rake the nooks out with a wire. etc....

Look on the interior of your exhaust hoses coming off the risers. Hoses can collapse and not allow sufficient water flow and even backwash into the riser restricting water flow.... ( i.e. http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8 )
Gauges are not common to failure relative to other possibilities...

The hose(s) can feel soft or sound louder than a muffled sound if there is internal damage but for that age of a boat, I'd pull the risers and replace regardless....however when you say you can touch the risers and they feel somewhat 'touchable' that makes me think the hoses are not bad, but............preventative maintenance.....

Easier to remove the risers and work from there in lieu of not removing. However you'll need two new gaskets for re-installation. Even if they are not collapsed inside, while you have it apart, replace with new hoses.... Gaskets and hoses ==> www.skidim.com
Use an anti-seize compound on the hose connections when upon re-installation.

Make sure your raw water pump is installed in the proper direction. There is an correct and incorrect way to install...

.
__________________
93 190
.
Don't be a boot licker
.

Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.

Last edited by Cloaked; 06-28-2013 at 08:15 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-28-2013, 08:20 PM
GoneBoatN's Avatar
GoneBoatN GoneBoatN is online now
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Boat: 2010 X-15 w/MCX
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 1,828
Any thoughts on using a thermometer to measure the temperature of the water immediately after the water exits the boat via the exhaust. My thought was a small container such that the water is being replace rather quickly and a thermometer in it to get a reading. Should it not read the same temp as the gauge, maybe even a couple degrees higher as it picks up the heat from the exhaust. Could this not be a way to check that the gauge is reading correctly (or close to correct) or not?

Then, cant you check the ohms of the sender to make sure it is sending the correct signal to the guage?

I'm just thinking out loud so if I'm sayn something stupid, please forgive me.

Last edited by GoneBoatN; 06-30-2013 at 05:01 PM. Reason: changing voltage to ohms
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:05 AM.