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  #11  
Old 06-22-2013, 01:28 AM
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wheelerd wheelerd is online now
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My install was an OEM 2-duct Heatercraft unit that I brought on Ebay from an MC owner who never had his installed.
You can see the edge of the heater core in the pic behind the battery. The visible hose comes around the battery to a hot tube under the observer's seat. The second hose which you can't see goes under the walkthru to an outlet at the driver's feet.
The hoses to and from the engine go under the floor through a cutout that was already there. You can barely see one on the bow side of the core. (The hose between the amps is the fresh air intake for the bilge.)
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  #12  
Old 06-22-2013, 08:54 AM
TURSTY TURSTY is offline
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Thanks for the pics wheelerd. I am assuming that both the heads are fed via the block and both sides are split at the water pump outlet? Being that my outlets on the waterpump and the intake mani are in use/not accessible due to the fuel line, the head outlet on the port side of the boat (right side of the motor) would be the next best as its further from the water pump then the opposite side? Thinking about it, the water in the motor is regulated by the thermostat so I would have thought most of the outlets will be fairly similar in temp anyway?

I havn't got round to building the heater box yet, but I will post pics when I have made it. Still trying to work out the cheapest way to blow air through it. Was thinking of looking into a few high flow computer fans or something similar. Need to do a bit of testing for it.
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  #13  
Old 06-22-2013, 10:45 AM
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The back of the water pump will look like the pic below (or something close depending on the exact GM application.)

Cooled water goes out the two mounting ears into each side of the block, then up through the water passages where the block and heads mate, and then up into the intake manifold and out the front. I'm not sure what the temperature differential would be between water in the block around the cylinders and water coming out of the manifolds. The "fire" is in the combustion chambers so there is certainly more heat being generated at the top of the engine.

You may be able to design/build your own heater core and blower but I think you would need a stronger fan than a computer fan. The stock fan is a centrifugal one. Maybe you are a whiz with building things like this but for my money and time I would just go with the ready-to-install one from Heatercraft. http://www.heatercraft.com/heaters/
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  #14  
Old 06-22-2013, 07:28 PM
TURSTY TURSTY is offline
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Yeah I would say the difference between the heads would be much of a muchness. If the factory installed heater uses the Starboard side feed off the head, then I might just go with that.

Re the core, I live in New Zealand, so Im looking at around $1100 for a heatercraft one once shipping is added etc and I kind of enjoy making things. I have a tig welder so will build a enclosure out of alloy and a old truck/car heater core. I can get access to heaps of cooling fans from servers/network switches from work so hope to use a few of them and end up spending somewhere around $2-300 for the whole thing. If I cant find a fan/s that will move enough air, I might look into buying a automotive blower.
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  #15  
Old 06-22-2013, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willg View Post
On my boat, 2002 X-star (5.7L LTR engine) w/ factory heater, the valve is on the side of the block, between the spark plugs and under the manifold. It was really hard to get a good picture with the dividers in, I'll try to take a better one tomorrow. In the second picture, you can see the brass valve right in the center of the image between the exhaust. I have no idea where the water returns to the engine.



Thats where my valve is located. Do you think I would get hotter water if I pluged into the port by the thermostat.
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  #16  
Old 06-22-2013, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURSTY View Post
Yeah I would say the difference between the heads would be much of a muchness. If the factory installed heater uses the Starboard side feed off the head, then I might just go with that.

Re the core, I live in New Zealand, so Im looking at around $1100 for a heatercraft one once shipping is added etc and I kind of enjoy making things. I have a tig welder so will build a enclosure out of alloy and a old truck/car heater core. I can get access to heaps of cooling fans from servers/network switches from work so hope to use a few of them and end up spending somewhere around $2-300 for the whole thing. If I cant find a fan/s that will move enough air, I might look into buying a automotive blower.
Sounds like you'll do just fine. Post some pics of your fabrication process.
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  #17  
Old 06-25-2013, 02:08 PM
willg willg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOO-TALL View Post
Thats where my valve is located. Do you think I would get hotter water if I pluged into the port by the thermostat.
I don't know how well my heater works, I haven't got it working yet. It blows air but without any heat. I assume it must have a pump in the heater to move the hot water through? I don't understand how the pressure from the engine water pump is enough to run the heater. And I still can't figure out where the return line ties in.
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  #18  
Old 06-26-2013, 01:54 AM
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If it's an OEM heater there is no pump in it. Water circulates via the engine water pump, just like water through the rad in a car. Do you have no heat, period? Or just no heat at idle? Y-ing the return into the raw inlet hose like the diagram in post #4 is the answer to the latter issue because creates more negative pressure to help draw the from the heater. You should be able to determine where your return hose enters the engine if you just look for a hose like the supply hose.
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(previous) 2001 X5, 1991 TriStar 190
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  #19  
Old 06-26-2013, 08:05 PM
TURSTY TURSTY is offline
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Started mocking up a heater box from cardboard so I can see what flow will be like with multiple pc type fans.

The heater craft units move 266 CFM on high. I have worked out I can fit in 2x120mm fans at 74 CFM each, and 5x 80mm fans at 38 CFM each, giving a total of 338 CFM. Now I'm no pro when it comes to airflow characteristics so I could be totaly wrong adding all the fans together (back flow, pressure etc could play a part??), but it sounds like its worth testing. All up the fans would be under $100 for new ones compared to $400 odd for a blower.

Here's some pics so far:









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  #20  
Old 06-26-2013, 08:58 PM
willg willg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURSTY View Post
Started mocking up a heater box from cardboard so I can see what flow will be like with multiple pc type fans.

The heater craft units move 266 CFM on high. I have worked out I can fit in 2x120mm fans at 74 CFM each, and 5x 80mm fans at 38 CFM each, giving a total of 338 CFM. Now I'm no pro when it comes to airflow characteristics so I could be totaly wrong adding all the fans together (back flow, pressure etc could play a part??), but it sounds like its worth testing. All up the fans would be under $100 for new ones compared to $400 odd for a blower.

Here's some pics so far:
I would think computer fans might have a problem creating enough pressure. This is another option for less $$: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEACHOICE-IN...110cac&vxp=mtr

Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelerd View Post
If it's an OEM heater there is no pump in it. Water circulates via the engine water pump, just like water through the rad in a car. Do you have no heat, period? Or just no heat at idle? Y-ing the return into the raw inlet hose like the diagram in post #4 is the answer to the latter issue because creates more negative pressure to help draw the from the heater. You should be able to determine where your return hose enters the engine if you just look for a hose like the supply hose.
How is the return line run from the factory? I haven't been able to figure out where mine returns to the engine, there is definitely not a y return line in the raw water inlet. I haven't invested much time into the source of no heat, I never need the heater, but it blows cool air at every speed.
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