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Old 05-18-2013, 10:04 AM
roush611 roush611 is offline
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1983 S&S fires but won't run...

The boat will now fire without the assistance of starting fluid. It will no stay running though. It fires then immediately shuts off. It will continue to run if I hold the key in the start position but as soon as I let off the key it dies. I am hoping you all will be able to give me some tips that dont require spending money ha ha.

Link to video: http://youtu.be/VujMCXStARM

The only 2 things I can think of is bad fuel pump (I just took it apart the other day and it looked fine) or fuel pick up in the tank. I don't know how to check that though.

The boat has a newly rebuilt carb
New distributor
New starter
New plugs
New fuel lines
New battery
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Old 05-18-2013, 10:13 AM
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madcityskier madcityskier is offline
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If it "runs" with the starter engaged, you could be not running at all. If it really is then likely electrical, have you checked the ignition switch? Tried putting a little fuel into the carb to see if it runs when you know there's fuel. If it runs like that you'll know it's fuel delivery. That said, I've always had great luck dining the occasional points plugs rotor cap coil and wires. A little $, but really not much, at the very least inspect them all. Buddy was on a most last week with a loose distributor. Set them timing and all was right with the world.
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:01 PM
roush611 roush611 is offline
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I have put fuel into the carb. The squirters are squirting fuel out when I give it throttle. The whole distributor is brand new so it should not need points. The ignition switch is brand new as well. Is there a dude that is associated with the ignition switch?

Last edited by roush611; 05-18-2013 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:07 PM
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1redTA 1redTA is offline
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is your ignition coil wired right?
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:25 PM
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2010Prostar197 2010Prostar197 is offline
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Dwell on the points? Should be around 30 degrees. Ballast resistor which is near the coil? Initial timing? I assume the spark plug wires are in the correct order....I had one 180 degrees out that sounded like yours after changing out a distributor. Good solid spark? A ballast resistor gone bad lowers the voltage thus you might get a spark but not a healthy one that's required under cylinder pressure. Take a volt meter and measure what you have at the coil. Some have a fusible wire that opens up. Looks good from the outside but nothing at the coil.
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:00 PM
roush611 roush611 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1redTA View Post
is your ignition coil wired right?
The coil is wired correct.

2010 how do I tell if I am 180 degrees out on my timing? There is a chance that the resistor is bad as it looks awful. I will check the voltage at the coil.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I know I am close to getting this thing started but there is one stupid thing I am looking over.
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:04 PM
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1redTA 1redTA is offline
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Makes sense, the risistor is bypassed during cranking if I remember correctly
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:21 PM
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2010Prostar197 2010Prostar197 is offline
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I believe you are correct about the ballast resistor being bypassed while starting. Full voltage would seriously shorten the life of the points while running but helps getting the engine started. There is also a capacitor in the distributor that can cause problems. It buffers the spikes when the points open and close however if the distributor is new it is probably ok.

To check if 180 out you need to put the number one cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke. Then go to the distributor and make sure the rotor is pointing to the wire that goes to number one. Then check to make sure the firing order with the rest of the wires matches what the engine needs. Usually 18465372 but it can vary depending on what engine you have
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:45 PM
roush611 roush611 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010Prostar197 View Post
I believe you are correct about the ballast resistor being bypassed while starting. Full voltage would seriously shorten the life of the points while running but helps getting the engine started. There is also a capacitor in the distributor that can cause problems. It buffers the spikes when the points open and close however if the distributor is new it is probably ok.

To check if 180 out you need to put the number one cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke. Then go to the distributor and make sure the rotor is pointing to the wire that goes to number one. Then check to make sure the firing order with the rest of the wires matches what the engine needs. Usually 18465372 but it can vary depending on what engine you have
I think it might be the resistor. I measured the voltage while turning the boat over at the coil and I was only getting like 3-5 volts.

Anybody know what kind of resistor I need. I installed a new flame thrower coil last weekend. Would I have to change anything after that? I forgot to mention that in the new parts list
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:09 PM
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1redTA 1redTA is offline
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when I installed a flame thrower II I bypassed the resistor per the instructions and it gets 12 volts all the time
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