#71
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#72
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Quote:
Thanks again, Steve |
#73
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Sorry Steve, I really thought that was standard...but in all honesty, I like the non-powered setup better. If you can figure out how strong of shocks you need, I promise you'll like how it works! I would think you'll need two relatively strong shocks to support it...do a search on the forum, there was a guy that replaced his powered actuator with spring shocks for fear that the powered unit would crap out.
Good luck! Doug
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Mediterranean Blue 2012 X2 2013 Ford Expedition EL Limited He who dies with the most toys wins...I'm losing right now!!! ![]() |
#74
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Ya learn something new every day. I don't see any evidence that your boat ever had the actuator - I didn't know that was possible. That's a slick looking latch assembly on the deck too - I wonder where I could get one of those - it would be far better than the powered setup.
Looks like your boat is missing all of the panels out of the rear compartment. There used to be carpeted boards mounted on the sides and transom, and two hinged boards mounted next to the engine. Formed a right nice carpeted box, it did. I took mine out so the Air Chair would fit in the compartment, but I left the dividers next to the engine to keep things from shifting into it. The dividers would fold down towards the outer side of the boat for access to the engine. /frank
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1998 Maristar 200VRS ![]() |
#75
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Quote:
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#76
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Do most boats have the gas shocks or just the actuator?
Thanks, Steve |
#77
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Mine has the actuator and one gas shock. I added a second to help lift the deck because the actuator was moving slow. If I remove the actuator, the two shocks are sufficient to hold the deck up.
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1998 Maristar 200VRS ![]() |
#78
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I will try to post pics of our bone stock setup tonight.
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1998 MariStar 200 VRS, LT1, PowerSlot |
#79
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I've polished some of my stainless steel trim, it didn't come out perfect but a lot better then it was. I bought a small Craftsman's buffer a while ago to buff some automotive trim.
![]() Can I just use a good silicone sealant when I reassemble any parts that are close to the water or do I need to use a marine silicone. Steve |
#80
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Just use silicone. Even without sealant, you're not going to get any significant water through those fittings (except possibly the bow ring). Of course, I'm speaking as someone with pre-teen children and a dog; a golf-ball sized hole in the hull would let less water into the boat than the kids and dog bring in.
Don't get into the 3M 5200 sealant crowd - it's great stuff, but consider it more-or-less permanent. If you ever need to get it off, you'll have to get out the jackhammer. Also, I replaced the fixed cleats on the flanks of the boat with pop-ups. The kids love jumping off the sunpad over the side, and I really worried about one of them coming in contact with those horns. Something like this or this helped my piece of mind immensely.
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1998 Maristar 200VRS ![]() |
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