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  #41  
Old 07-30-2009, 10:36 PM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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From http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.html

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Hull ID Numbers


Play the Numbers Game (What's a HIN?) Did you ever wonder what that strange series of letters and numbers on the transom of your boat are. Well, if you have taken the Nautical Know How course you know they are Hull Identification Numbers (HIN) and that they are required. But, what do they mean?
All boats manufactured or imported on or after November 1, 1972 must bear a HIN. The HIN is a 12 character serial number that uniquely identifies your boat. The HIN has an important safety purpose. It enables manufacturers to clearly identify for boat owners the boats that are involved in a defect notification and recall campaign. A HIN is not the same as a State registration number, which may be required to be displayed on the bow of your boat. The HIN is a Federal requirement; your boat’s registration number is a State requirement similar to the license plate on your car. The HIN, however, is required to be shown on the State certificate of registration.

JAN = A
FEB = B
MAR = C
APR = D
MAY = E
JUN = F
JUL = G
AUG= H
SEPT = I
OCT = J
NOV = K
DEC = L
*Key to Month of Model Year
Figure 1 - HIN Formats Before August 1, 1984
The boat manufacturer must display two identical hull identification numbers, no less than one-fourth of an inch high, on each boat hull. The primary HIN must be permanently affixed (so that it can be seen from outside the boat) to the starboard side of the transom within two inches of the top of the transom, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, whichever is lowest. On boats without transoms or on boats on which it would be impractical to the transom, the HIN must be affixed to the starboard outboard side of the hull, aft within one foot of the stern and within two inches of the top of hull side, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, whichever is lowest. The starboard outboard side of the hull aft is the preferred HIN location for many manufacturers. On catamarans and pontoon boats the HIN must be affixed on the aft crossbeam within one foot of the starboard hull attachment.
JAN = A
FEB = B
MAR = C
APR = D
MAY = E
JUN = F
JUL = G
AUG = H
SEP = I
OCT = J
NOV = K
DEC = L

Figure 2 - HIN Format After August 1, 1984
Boats manufactured or imported on or after August 1, 1984, also have a duplicate secondary HIN affixed somewhere on an unexposed location inside the boat or beneath a fitting or item of hardware. The purpose is to help authorities identify your boat if a thief or vandals remove or damage the primary HIN on the transom. It is illegal for anyone (manufacturer, dealer, distributor, or owner) to alter or remove a HIN without the express written authorization of the Commandant, U.S. Coast Guard.
The regulations prescribe the format of the HIN. The first three characters are a MIC (Manufacturer Identification Code) assigned by the Coast Guard to the manufacturer or the person importing the boat; characters four through eight are a serial number assigned by the manufacturer; the last four characters indicate the month and year the boat was built, and the model year. Prior to August 1, 1984, the manufacturer had the option of expressing this in the form of a model year designation.
The Coast Guard maintains a searchable database of MICs if you want to check yours out - click here.
Individuals building boats for their own use and not for the purposes of sale are what are referred to as "backyard boat builders." They must obtain a 12 character HIN from their State boating agency. The Manufacturer Identification Code at the beginning of the HIN for a "home built" boat is an abbreviation for the State followed by a "Z" which indicates that it is a State identification.



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Last edited by TMCNo1; 07-30-2009 at 10:47 PM.
  #42  
Old 08-30-2009, 04:06 PM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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Pop up cleat tutorial, http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ghlight=cleats, posts 45, 46, and 55.
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Quote: 2RLAKE,
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  #43  
Old 08-30-2009, 04:06 PM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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Retrofit late model fold down swim platform bracket installation tutorials,
1) '95 ProStar 205, http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...highlight=fold
2) '87 to '90 ProStar 190, http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...highlight=fold
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At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




  #44  
Old 01-05-2010, 11:29 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Where can I download older MasterCraft Brochures?

Link to thread by C36
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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
  #45  
Old 09-10-2010, 04:21 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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I don't mean to be rude, but in the spirit of keeping this thread organized, please start new topics with your questions. In addition to keeping this thread easier to search, you are also more likely to get an answer if your question has its own thread or is posted in a thread that relates to it.
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Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

FAQ


Tyler Ski Club


To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
  #46  
Old 09-29-2011, 03:38 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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I want to rebuild my Holley Carburetor. Is there a walk through for this?

Yes.


Link
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Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

FAQ


Tyler Ski Club


To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.

Last edited by east tx skier; 09-29-2011 at 03:41 PM.
  #47  
Old 11-03-2011, 01:07 PM
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I've locked the thread, just to keep it dedicated to FAQ only.

PM me and I will open it for you to post additional topics.
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  #48  
Old 11-08-2012, 07:33 AM
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What is the difference between Perfect Pass Digital Pro, Star Gaze, and Z box?

Originally posted by Eastie.

I'll see if I can answer these.

Perfect Pass Digital Pro is an older PP system. For slalom, it is rpm based system. That is, you run a timed pass in the course and it gives an rpm value for a particular speed. You add skier and crew weight to the equation and it adds rpm based on those values. It uses either a magnet sensor or a hand timer for timing and requires six magnets in the course for the former. It only makes two adjustments to the rpm---a ramp up in rpm based on 28% of skier weight to reach the baseline + skier and crew weight and an adjustment (a reduction I believe) at the 3 ball based on a second segment balance user input). Digital Pro is generally pretty reliable, but it is a "dumb" system.

Stargazer is a Pure GPS based system, that is, it continuously makes adjustments to an initial rpm baseline based on speed information it receives from a GPS antenna. The system traditionally required two magnets to determine where the course entry gates are. Thereafter, timing is based on a virtual slalom course. Version 8 does away with the need for magnets. Course entry gates are stored as waypoints. There are adjustments for how the system reacts at the gates, 1 ball, and 3 ball. Classic Perfect Pass, i.e., Digital Pro, remains an option in this system.

Stargazer with Zbox is intended to be a Zero Off emulator. It is an upgrade to SG, but the two can be purchased together. The zbox is a separate component that plugs in between the GPS antenna and the Master Module. It contains an accelerometer and causes the system to respond to the skier's pull. As a result, you can hear the engine rev/surge as the boat goes down the course. The system has ABC/123 settings in it just like zero off and the settings are intended to correspond with the same settings in ZO. Regular SG and Classic PP are included as options in the system. No magnets required. Zbox runs Software Version 8.0(z).

I currently have SG with Zbox and think it's great (I have had SG since the beginning and had DP before that. Times are consistent with SG/ZB within about 0.02 seconds ball to ball typically. Close enough for my amateur skiing.

All of the systems have trick and jump modes, too as well as wakeboard settings if you reset the system in WB mode. For Trick, if you have DP, you will need to use the Paddle Wheel to determine speed. In SG and SG/ZB, it uses the speed input from the GPS antenna. I never liked using the paddle wheel to determine speed. It never seemed to be too accurate on my boats. However, if you free ski in a river current, just remember that GPS does not determine speed over water. Accordingly, you will need to run in practice mode and remove a couple of mph to account for the current.
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  #49  
Old 04-29-2013, 12:43 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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I want to rebuild my Borg-Warner Velvet Drive Transmission. Is there a walkthrough of this process?

Absolutely. Here is the thread.
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Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

FAQ


Tyler Ski Club


To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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