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  #31  
Old 04-16-2014, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBenj View Post
Yikes, terrible advice being offered!!!

The shaft to coupler is an interference fit. Penetrating lubricants and anti sieze are useless. So are half-assed pullers. You need to press it off, or admit defeat and cut the shaft with a sawzall. Use some bolts or threaded rods and an appropriate sized socket against the output shaft of the transmission. It'll come. Heat will help, but wont be enough. Definitely use heat/ice on the reinstall though.
Interesting comment... since the coupler was not put on with a shop press. The corrosion on the that coupler. I get the interference fit - but the couple does not need that much pressure to move it. Also using the trans flange can yield in a very costly repair of the shaf tis seized up.

It should come of fairly easily - it was designed to do so... any corrosion on the interference fit will lock it up even tighter.
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  #32  
Old 04-16-2014, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
Interesting comment... since the coupler was not put on with a shop press. The corrosion on the that coupler. I get the interference fit - but the couple does not need that much pressure to move it. Also using the trans flange can yield in a very costly repair of the shaf tis seized up.

It should come of fairly easily - it was designed to do so... any corrosion on the interference fit will lock it up even tighter.
Yeah, from what I've researched - the last thing you want to do is break the trans flange. I'd rather pay someone to take it off opposed to messing around and end up having to pull the transmission. Mine hasn't budged, Homer - hope you have better luck because I'm about to call "uncle" on mine.
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  #33  
Old 04-16-2014, 04:39 PM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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By definition, the shaft cannot be "seized up" if it has a proper interference fit. All worn (fretted) interference fit parts that I have encountered have been loose and sloppy.

If youre suggesting that the coupler and shaft were not pressed together, Im curious how you think they were assembled. The only other method that can be used to get them together is heat/cold. Yes, it SHOULD be difficult to get them apart- if they come apart easily then the parts are worn and need to be replaced. You might want to read up a little bit on how an interference fit works.

Wikipedia

Pressing the shaft off the coupler using the output flange of the transmission is standard industry practice. If that scares you, then cut the shaft and pony up for a new one.
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  #34  
Old 04-26-2014, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBenj View Post
Pressing the shaft off the coupler using the output flange of the transmission is standard industry practice. If that scares you, then cut the shaft and pony up for a new one.
I just removed mine using this method. Used four 2.5 inch 3/8ths bolts/nuts and a 3/4in socket to press against. I tightened the bolts very slowly in an opposing sequence. I would say that I didn't even tighten the nuts a full turn before the coupler popped forward a little. I still had to inch it off with the press the remaining distance. At no time during this did it seem like there was any undue stress on the transmission flange.

Now I just hope that I am able to get it back on after replacing the strut bearing.
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  #35  
Old 04-29-2014, 08:19 PM
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that is a taper fit,load up the puller and get two dead blow hammers and hit the side of the coupler,it should pop right off.
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  #36  
Old 04-30-2014, 11:23 AM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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Originally Posted by chico View Post
that is a taper fit,load up the puller and get two dead blow hammers and hit the side of the coupler,it should pop right off.
Dual taper prop shafts are out there, but are not standard on all boats. Single taper (on the prop end) is the standard for most direct drives, especially older ones. I believe we have established that the coupler to shaft mate is an interference fit on this particular boat. If there is no nut staring you in the face when you separate the couplers, that tells you its not a tapered shaft. You definitely do not want to "load up the puller and hit it with a hammer"... that only works for a tapered fit.
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  #37  
Old 04-30-2014, 12:50 PM
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TRBenj, not sure what you meant about the "nut staring you in the face". I did have to remove a nut in the middle of the coupling that threaded on to the shaft. It is also keyed, does the interference shaft have a key? I believe that this shaft was replaced by PO and therefore may be a taper fit. I've had some pressure and penetrating grease on it for a couple weeks now.

Time to get back to it soon when I can carve out substantial time to put it. I'll break out the heat again.
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  #38  
Old 05-01-2014, 08:10 AM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer12 View Post
I did have to remove a nut in the middle of the coupling that threaded on to the shaft. I believe that this shaft was replaced by PO and therefore may be a taper fit.
Well there you have it... you have a (non-original) dual taper shaft. That info (or a picture) would have been much more helpful at the beginning of the thread! A puller and a hammer should separate a tapered fit, unlike the original interference fit gear.

Yes, interference fit couplers are still keyed.
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  #39  
Old 05-02-2014, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBenj View Post
Well there you have it... you have a (non-original) dual taper shaft. That info (or a picture) would have been much more helpful at the beginning of the thread! A puller and a hammer should separate a tapered fit, unlike the original interference fit gear.

Yes, interference fit couplers are still keyed.
So I believe we all have the same shaft and coupler, because this is mine. Is this interference or taper? There is a nut on each end.
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  #40  
Old 05-25-2014, 11:43 PM
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Ok, had some success yesterday! Finally able to get the shaft coupling to break free! When it released it went "BANG" like I broke something and then was relieved to see this. I took 2 1/4" steel plates, drilled holes for the flange pattern and used all-thread/nuts to press this shaft off. That and this had been soaking with PB Blaster for weeks. Now time to finally replace the shaft log hose, packing material and get the shaft alignment done.
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