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  #21  
Old 04-13-2014, 02:37 PM
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Mgs96ps, looks like there is a key slot on it so probably a tapered fit like mine. Although I don't see a key sticking out like mine...is it in there?

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  #22  
Old 04-13-2014, 03:15 PM
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I chickened out. I had high hopes of changing out shaft log hose and stuffing box packing...but I just did stuffing box with it on prop shaft and plan on keeping an eye on hose.
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  #23  
Old 04-13-2014, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgs96ps View Post
I chickened out. I had high hopes of changing out shaft log hose and stuffing box packing...but I just did stuffing box with it on prop shaft and plan on keeping an eye on hose.
I bet yours would come off pretty easily. next winter or the one after I will be tackling the shaft hose as well as the cutlass bearings.
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  #24  
Old 04-14-2014, 11:42 PM
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I tried heat and PB blaster and under pressure with the puller tonight. No success yet. Will keep the PB blaster happening and puller on it hoping it just takes time.
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  #25  
Old 04-15-2014, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer12 View Post
Mgs96ps, looks like there is a key slot on it so probably a tapered fit like mine. Although I don't see a key sticking out like mine...is it in there?

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I'm not sure about the key. There is a nut on the end of prop shaft (transmission flange side) and a locking threaded insert perpendicular to it. Nut on end of shaft is over 1" and I did not have socket that was big enough to remove...so I gave up when I ran out of weekend. I hope MikeG is right that it will slide right off when end nut is removed. If someone knows for sure...that would be great.
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  #26  
Old 04-15-2014, 02:15 PM
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Just FYI - I have a 1" propshaft and the nut size on the end took a 1-1/4" socket.
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  #27  
Old 04-15-2014, 06:55 PM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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Yikes, terrible advice being offered!!!

The shaft to coupler is an interference fit. Penetrating lubricants and anti sieze are useless. So are half-assed pullers. You need to press it off, or admit defeat and cut the shaft with a sawzall. Use some bolts or threaded rods and an appropriate sized socket against the output shaft of the transmission. It'll come. Heat will help, but wont be enough. Definitely use heat/ice on the reinstall though.
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  #28  
Old 04-16-2014, 02:51 PM
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TRBenj, you are right, I've done enough additional reading to read about interference fit. It is different from tapered in the sense it is a straight shaft to straight coupling (slightly undersized) right? I have no way of pressing it still in the boat unless you're referring to pressing it against the socket.
Do you recommend using the tranny shaft coupler to press the socket on the shaft or using something else? I only have this to use for 2-bolts at the moment. Maybe it's time to get some thick plated steel and make a piece to press 4-bolts against.
I've been applying heat as well as light taps to the coupling to get it to come off. Been using mapp gas.
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Last edited by homer12; 04-16-2014 at 03:11 PM.
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  #29  
Old 04-16-2014, 03:04 PM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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Use the output coupler of the transmission to press the shaft out of the coupler. Use all 4 bolts and an appropriately sized socket. This is the tried and true method.

Or, if you know the shaft is bent, just cut it out with a sawzall and save yourself the hassle.
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  #30  
Old 04-16-2014, 03:15 PM
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I don't have any reason to suspect the shaft being bent. I think I'm going to take it to a machine shop though and have it checked and trued if they determine it needs it. So, no worries on bending or breaking the transmission output coupler? Just makes me nervous is all....
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