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  #31  
Old 04-01-2013, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
The 1.1 Ohms is high. Get the resistors and substitute them for the ECT, as I posted. If the check engine light goes off when you disconnect it, it has a problem (or, the plug/wires on its harness). The sensor going to the gauge has nothing to do with what's going to the ECM.

44 may be IC module- contact Mastercraft or Indmar and ask them about it- my manual isn't here at the moment, so I can't check this.

Disconnect the battery, let it sit for a few minutes and remove the plugs from the ECM. Open the plastic shell and look for the black wires and measure from the ECM plug to the battery posts, not the terminals. The resistance between the terminal and post can be enough to cause problems.

Here's a manual for MEFI 4, but it's not exactly for your engine. The pin out,, diagrams and diagnostics are basically the same. You'll notice that the MAP sensor is different (the one in the link is like the one on the LTR. MCX and some of the others that aren't TBI).

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...510005P%29.pdf
Thanks JimN,

I now have the boat parked for a while, hit a rock in 7 feet of water....... buggered the prop, shaft, strut, and log....
Then found the fiberglass repair on the exhaust had blown off with one of the backfires and had filled the bilge..... because the auto function of the bilge pump is not working.

Will check the earth resistance etc when I feel like looking at it again.

On the bright side the over fueling and running rich seems to have stopped.
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  #32  
Old 04-01-2013, 10:29 AM
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That is terrible!
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1981 MasterCraft
19' Skier 351W PowerSlot Deluxe
Long gone is the Trans AM waiting for another
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  #33  
Old 07-14-2013, 04:57 AM
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Wish I could post pictures... Pulled out the carter fuel pump assembly and replaced what was left of the old fuel filter. Had started to disintegrate and pieces were stuck in the pump inlet screen. Only about 50% of the screen clear for fuel to flow.

I think this might be why the motor is missing at high rpm and high loads....

Have also replaced Temp Sensor and as per seperate post, found loads of Muck stuck arround hole where the temp sensor fits. Now new temp sensor, clear to have maximum water flow should solve over heat issue with computer reducing RPM to 2000.

Yet to get it out on the water... way too cold down under, but will try next weekend.
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  #34  
Old 07-14-2013, 07:47 AM
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This is the pump inlet screen!
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  #35  
Old 07-14-2013, 07:49 AM
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The old filter
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Note the corrosion on the metal frame
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  #36  
Old 07-14-2013, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark rsa2au View Post
Wish I could post pictures... Pulled out the carter fuel pump assembly and replaced what was left of the old fuel filter. Had started to disintegrate and pieces were stuck in the pump inlet screen. Only about 50% of the screen clear for fuel to flow.

I think this might be why the motor is missing at high rpm and high loads....

Have also replaced Temp Sensor and as per seperate post, found loads of Muck stuck arround hole where the temp sensor fits. Now new temp sensor, clear to have maximum water flow should solve over heat issue with computer reducing RPM to 2000.

Yet to get it out on the water... way too cold down under, but will try next weekend.
Who has maintained/serviced this boat since it was new? If the fuel pump/filter was that bad, it's because the scheduled maintenance wasn't performed and the interval information IS available, so there's really no good reason for this.
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  #37  
Old 07-14-2013, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark rsa2au View Post
Attachment 97709
The old filter
Attachment 97710
Note the corrosion on the metal frame
What additives are in your gas when you buy it at the pump? Whatever it has, it's attracting a lot of water and I think it's amazing that the pump lasted as long as it did. I would recommend taking a fuel sample before running it again. If you find water, remove it from the gas. If you see a milky layer in the gas, remove ALL of the gas- this milky layer is due to "phase separation" and not only does it not burn well, it doesn't pass through the filter as well as clean gas (assuming the 5 micron filter element is on the pump).
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  #38  
Old 07-15-2013, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
What additives are in your gas when you buy it at the pump? Whatever it has, it's attracting a lot of water and I think it's amazing that the pump lasted as long as it did. I would recommend taking a fuel sample before running it again. If you find water, remove it from the gas. If you see a milky layer in the gas, remove ALL of the gas- this milky layer is due to "phase separation" and not only does it not burn well, it doesn't pass through the filter as well as clean gas (assuming the 5 micron filter element is on the pump).
JimN, I think the boat sat arround for a few years with an empty tank. The fuel here in Australia does not contain any "Special" additives that I know of, and I stay away from the ethanol blends.

I have pushed a number tanks through the motor so far (at its worst I was going through 2 tanks a day) and looking at the fuel in the tank it was crystal clear all the way to the bottom. There was what looked like sand (rust flakes) on the bottom and I syphoned these off from the open hole. I have also pumped a few bottles of fuel system cleaner through over various fills so hopefully there is no residue left. New filter, cleaned and checked pump, strainer clear, and we are good to go.

On the subject of scheduled maintainence I doubt much was done over the last few years, but it all looks good with no rust, nothing broken, and other than finding the causes of the above issues seems ok. Pulls like a freight train, and when running properly is as smooth as silk.

I am getting there.. Persistance beats resistance! Now all I need is above freezing temps to give it a test run... know any weather gods?
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  #39  
Old 07-15-2013, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark rsa2au View Post
JimN, I think the boat sat arround for a few years with an empty tank. The fuel here in Australia does not contain any "Special" additives that I know of, and I stay away from the ethanol blends.

I have pushed a number tanks through the motor so far (at its worst I was going through 2 tanks a day) and looking at the fuel in the tank it was crystal clear all the way to the bottom. There was what looked like sand (rust flakes) on the bottom and I syphoned these off from the open hole. I have also pumped a few bottles of fuel system cleaner through over various fills so hopefully there is no residue left. New filter, cleaned and checked pump, strainer clear, and we are good to go.

On the subject of scheduled maintainence I doubt much was done over the last few years, but it all looks good with no rust, nothing broken, and other than finding the causes of the above issues seems ok. Pulls like a freight train, and when running properly is as smooth as silk.

I am getting there.. Persistance beats resistance! Now all I need is above freezing temps to give it a test run... know any weather gods?
If you and/or the boat are very close to the ocean, the rust could be from brackish/salt water. Hard to say without having been there. Good to see that it's running well.
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