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Old 03-13-2013, 07:34 PM
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How can you tell your alternator is charging your batter?

WITHOUT A VOLTMETER, how can you tell your alternator is charging your battery? I fired the boat up today and it was right around 13 Volts. Increasing the power to about 1500 rpm the volts jumped to about 13.5 volts. I'm sure it's working fine, but when should I become concerned it's not charging the battery? Below what volts do you guys think?

Thanks for the help!

Andy-
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:38 PM
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The shade tree was is to remove the battery terminal while the engine is running, if it dies alternator is not doing its job, if it stays running the alternator is operating.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:39 PM
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I don't remember the details, but there is something about hitting enough RPM to excite the field in the alt to begin charging. I don't know it's possible to diagnose this without a voltmeter.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.mccreight@hotmail.com View Post
The shade tree was is to remove the battery terminal while the engine is running, if it dies alternator is not doing its job, if it stays running the alternator is operating.
Remove which terminal? + or -? Hey I'm game for new ways to do things!
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
I don't remember the details, but there is something about hitting enough RPM to excite the field in the alt to begin charging. I don't know it's possible to diagnose this without a voltmeter.
Yeah, I'm not positive there is either. Just curious if anyones got any ideas. Thanks man!
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.mccreight@hotmail.com View Post
The shade tree was is to remove the battery terminal while the engine is running, if it dies alternator is not doing its job, if it stays running the alternator is operating.
Wasn't there something about this only being advisable on a points system? That this could do some damage to electronic ignition?
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
Wasn't there something about this only being advisable on a points system? That this could do some damage to electronic ignition?
Someone else mentioned this to me earlier today and it's do-able if I was able to maintain 100% electrical continuity (in order to protect the electrical circuits/EFI). However, I'm not 100% on anything with my boat.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:49 PM
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Thatsmrmastercraft: I took your advice too with the electrical connections on my boat, so far so good! That protection grease was a great idea. Thank you.
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96prostar190 View Post
Thatsmrmastercraft: I took your advice too with the electrical connections on my boat, so far so good! That protection grease was a great idea. Thank you.
Good to hear things are working for you. Working out the kinks on a used boat is quite an experience.
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Tandem Axle Packages Starting at $569 - 4 Aluminum wheels, 4 ST205/75R14 tires, mount & balance.
Single Axle Package Starting at $319 - 2 Aluminum wheels, 2 ST205/75R14 tires, mount & balance.

CARBURETOR REBUILDING - $125 + PARTS
LED lights, Hubs, Spare Tire Carriers, Chrome & Powder Coated Lug Nuts

PM or email me tiresplease@gmail.com
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  #10  
Old 03-13-2013, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
Good to hear things are working for you. Working out the kinks on a used boat is quite an experience.
I love my boat man, taking it out tomorrow for the first time of the season!

Your boat looks great too by the way! Its nice to see people keeping the classics alive!
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