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  #11  
Old 03-09-2013, 10:10 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Kweisner View Post
I will definitely isolate the head unit and see if that's it, although when I was still on a single battery system I never lost a charge. I'm kind of at the point where I think I got a bad battery and just need to get it replaced.
Do you have a multi-meter or test light with a bulb (not an LED)? Connect the test light or meter in series with one battery cable and look for more than a few mA of current or a brightly illuminated light. If it's bright, there's a heavy draw. You can find what's causing it by pulling one fuse ar a time- if it goes out when you pull one, you found it.

You didn't leave the light on in the storage compartment, did you?
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  #12  
Old 03-11-2013, 04:39 PM
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Kweisner Kweisner is offline
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
Do you have a multi-meter or test light with a bulb (not an LED)? Connect the test light or meter in series with one battery cable and look for more than a few mA of current or a brightly illuminated light. If it's bright, there's a heavy draw. You can find what's causing it by pulling one fuse ar a time- if it goes out when you pull one, you found it.

You didn't leave the light on in the storage compartment, did you?
JimN. . . thank you once again for weighing in with ideas and suggestions--truly appreciate you taking the time and giving me stuff to chase out.

I took everything apart this weekend in an effort to isolate variables. One thing I discovered is I had mis-wired the Yellow and Red leads from the Clarion head unit. Now, I have the yellow to the house batt (constant and 'main' power) and the red is hooked back into the ACC circuit so the head unit responds appropriately to the key being in the ACC/OFF/ON position. I don't feel confident (yet) this was the issue. . . but at least it's one variable that needed to be corrected.

Currently, both batteries disconnected from each other, but wired to their respective circuits (meaning the house is only connected to the head unit/powered sub).

Start batt continues to be fine holding a charge.

Put a full charge on the House batt and will let it sit for a week--if no loss of voltage, I'll then re-link them via the relay and see if there's any change in behavior. In the meantime, I will look for a potential voltage leak from either battery using the test method.

Just so I'm clear on the Meter Test, can you confirm for me the "in series" connection you mentioned? I take that to mean that I'd place the meter (or bulb) between the POS post of the battery, and the POS cable that would normally go to that post, correct?

IOW, BATTERY POST > METER > BATTERY CABLE.

Thanks again!
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  #13  
Old 03-11-2013, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Kweisner View Post
JimN. . . thank you once again for weighing in with ideas and suggestions--truly appreciate you taking the time and giving me stuff to chase out.

I took everything apart this weekend in an effort to isolate variables. One thing I discovered is I had mis-wired the Yellow and Red leads from the Clarion head unit. Now, I have the yellow to the house batt (constant and 'main' power) and the red is hooked back into the ACC circuit so the head unit responds appropriately to the key being in the ACC/OFF/ON position. I don't feel confident (yet) this was the issue. . . but at least it's one variable that needed to be corrected.

Currently, both batteries disconnected from each other, but wired to their respective circuits (meaning the house is only connected to the head unit/powered sub).

Start batt continues to be fine holding a charge.

Put a full charge on the House batt and will let it sit for a week--if no loss of voltage, I'll then re-link them via the relay and see if there's any change in behavior. In the meantime, I will look for a potential voltage leak from either battery using the test method.

Just so I'm clear on the Meter Test, can you confirm for me the "in series" connection you mentioned? I take that to mean that I'd place the meter (or bulb) between the POS post of the battery, and the POS cable that would normally go to that post, correct?

IOW, BATTERY POST > METER > BATTERY CABLE.

Thanks again!
Yes- separate one battery cable from the battery, connect one test lead to the battery and the other to the cable end. Make sure to set the meter to Current before starting anf make sure you change it back before trying to measure voltage or resistance later. This doesn't go well if you try to measure voltage with a meter set up to test for current. Trust me on that one.

If your meter only goes up to 2A, use a test light or get a 100 Ohm resistor and connect that between the cable and battery instead of the meter to measure the voltage dropping across the resistor. You would be able to measure a lot more current this way but the procedure requires one formula to convert the reading from voltage to current. You'll be reading mV when you do this and the formula is I=E/R (I is Current, E Voltage and R is resistance. If you see a 100mV by connecting the meter on each lead of the 100 Ohm resistor, your result will be I=100mV/100 Ohms, or 1A.
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  #14  
Old 03-19-2013, 12:35 PM
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Kweisner Kweisner is offline
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Problem Solved! As noted, I re-traced all my steps, basically by reverting the entire setup back to original state, and the started over. Everything is working fine--both batts holding a charge (even without the maintainer plugged into the house batt) and I find no current leakage. At this point, I think it was a simple case of mis-wiring the head unit leads as that's the only thing I did differently (correctly) the second time around.

JimN, thank you again for all your guidance--great diagnostic info that I'll surely lean on sometime in the future.
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