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  #11  
Old 02-28-2013, 03:16 PM
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Thanks for the advice! will be making a rack soon! just need to get some ideas. gonna surf over to your site now.
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  #12  
Old 02-28-2013, 03:24 PM
bsloop bsloop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine View Post
And you should be afraid...very afraid.

Never drill into the sole within 3 to 4 inches of the hull.

David
So excited to mount my new..............

(backstory unknown)
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  #13  
Old 02-28-2013, 03:47 PM
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@bsloop:

That is painful to even look at.
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  #14  
Old 02-28-2013, 03:47 PM
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You can look in Sodar's stereo install thread. He made some blocks and I think fiber glassed them to the hull to mount his amp boards on.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=28992
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  #15  
Old 02-28-2013, 04:31 PM
hkyplyr31 hkyplyr31 is offline
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from my beer pong table experience, I have found that a laminated piece of wood that has plies oriented in different directions (like cabinet facing) will also help reduce warping. so coating that in resin would add a double layer of protection.
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2013, 05:35 PM
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@bsloop:

That is painful to even look at.
+1. Ouch.
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  #17  
Old 02-28-2013, 06:28 PM
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I wouldn't recommend that.
Won't all those screws create drag when underway?
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  #18  
Old 02-28-2013, 06:31 PM
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In order to attach mounting blocks to the hull...
Cut away sections of carpet where blocks will go.
Sand the interior gelcoat/glass.
Clean up with a solvent. M
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  #19  
Old 02-28-2013, 06:43 PM
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In order to attach mounting blocks to the hull...
Cut away sections of carpet where blocks will go.
Sand the interior gelcoat/glass.
Clean up with a solvent. Mineral spirits, paint thinner, easy on the acetone.
Fiberglass resin coat birch blocks. Double .75" thick if you want.
Drill in a number of .125" deep X .25" diameter holes on the bottom of the blocks for a better mechanical bond against the hull (before coating).
Glue in place with Dynaglass, KittyHair (filler with glass strands) or a 3M fiberglass body panel adhesive. Apply pressure until cured (24 hrs).
Now the hull flexes, so, make sure that the panel rests on the sole, via shallow polymer pads. This will have most of the weight supported by the sole making the hull connection for mostly lateral support.
Again, do not screw anything to the sole within a few inches of the hull. As the hull/dead rise changes, the sole can get very thin at it's perimeter.

David
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  #20  
Old 03-01-2013, 11:51 AM
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Theclarks1111 Theclarks1111 is offline
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A couple questions...

What grit sand paper do you recommend to sand the fiberglass?

Would "3M/1 gal. Bondo-Hair long strand fiberglass reinforced filler" from Autozone be a sufficient product to use to attach the board to the fiberglass?

Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine View Post
In order to attach mounting blocks to the hull...
Cut away sections of carpet where blocks will go.
Sand the interior gelcoat/glass.
Clean up with a solvent. Mineral spirits, paint thinner, easy on the acetone.
Fiberglass resin coat birch blocks. Double .75" thick if you want.
Drill in a number of .125" deep X .25" diameter holes on the bottom of the blocks for a better mechanical bond against the hull (before coating).
Glue in place with Dynaglass, KittyHair (filler with glass strands) or a 3M fiberglass body panel adhesive. Apply pressure until cured (24 hrs).
Now the hull flexes, so, make sure that the panel rests on the sole, via shallow polymer pads. This will have most of the weight supported by the sole making the hull connection for mostly lateral support.
Again, do not screw anything to the sole within a few inches of the hull. As the hull/dead rise changes, the sole can get very thin at it's perimeter.

David
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