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Old 07-20-2016, 03:03 PM
Darren190 Darren190 is offline
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Fuel Leak at carburetor

Hello,
I have a 1989 MC Tristar 190, with I think a Chevy 350 engine. I don't really work on the boat much, so I don't have great knowledge about the engine details. The inlet of fuel to the carburetor is leaking. Can someone point out a carburetor part diagram that shows the parts to it. I have uploaded a photo showing where the fuel is leaking. I have tried tightening the part, but it just unloosens after a while. I cannot trailer the boat right now and the place I store the boat - a marina - I just don't really trust their "mechanics".

I there a o-ring or gasket I need to replace? Put thread locking fluid on the threads? Hope to NOT replace the carburetor as I am may sell the boat after this season.

Thank you,
Darren
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Old 07-20-2016, 03:34 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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You need to replace the fuel fitting gasket Holley 26-102. You can pick that up at any decent auto parts store, or if you get me your address I can mail one to you. tiresplease@gmail.com
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Old 07-20-2016, 03:46 PM
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Old 07-20-2016, 05:40 PM
Darren190 Darren190 is offline
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Okay,
I will look for the Holley part. Thank you so much.

Darren
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Old 07-20-2016, 06:17 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren190 View Post
Okay,
I will look for the Holley part. Thank you so much.

Darren
Look on Discount Inboard Marine's site. It's there - $1.68 for the metal ring. Jeg's has nylon rings for about the same price. I prefer the nylon but either will work.

Take this for what it is worth to you from headaches and curse words.

From experience:

Typically leaks begin in that area to include thread crossing and leaks around all of those threaded fittings from loosening the connection(s) and trying to remove the metal line from under the carb. BAM! Line is sprung and does not go back into place (precisely) like is should.

If you (or anyone that reads and comprehends) want to reduce that risk to 0.5%, loosen the nuts at the base of the carb. Loosen the fuel line connection(s) using two wrenches (using one is an incident waiting to happen) and lift the carb up away from the fuel line, then remove the line (loosen the line at the pump if you are doing work on the line). Do the work and set the carb back into place down onto the fuel line, tighten the connections and you will have an unsprung line and much less likelihood of crossed threads and a leak. Use two wrenches to work on the multi-connection fittings. You can completely remove the carb or temporarily support it with something to keep from taking the cable loose.

Sounds like a lot of unnecessary work.... ==> so ask yourself, how's that fuel leak working out for me???? not too good!

Do not use plumber's tape. Tighten to a snug fit and then a tiny bit more (very little). Those threads will easily strip, and readily cross when the line is sprung and going in at an incorrect position.

Now, you have to consider the gasket at the base. I keep extras on hand when working on the carb. They are cheap and readily available, quite like fuel filler hose that I cut out any time I work back at the fuel filler deck plate. Keep a spare and save yourself a lot of time and headaches. Your call but I promise you this will reduce the risk of further issues with connections and leaks. I have been all down this road several times...

Do not take the hard line out and replace with a soft wall fuel line. Keep what you have (it's there for a reason) and take a little extra time to make it right.

Take the time to search and read the forum (which will make you a well informed wrencher). There is not one thing here that has not been asked and answered for about 99% of issues and informative learning on this forum. I encourage you to read and learn and you will not be able to say you're not much of a mechanic. It's all easy for the most part. Best luck.


$0.02

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Last edited by waterlogged882; 07-20-2016 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 07-20-2016, 07:43 PM
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Before you start replacing parts, find out what the torque spec is on that inlet fitting and make sure it hasn't been overtightened. If it is overtightened, it will leak. Back it off to the correct torque spec, and it will stop (if that's the issue).
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:45 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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22 - 26 ft. lbs.

That seems a little high to me but that is the recommendation. I'd ease into it with incremental passes on the torque and if it takes care of the issue, stop there.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 07-20-2016 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:01 AM
Darren190 Darren190 is offline
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.... sigh ... I was hoping I wouldn't have to go to those lengths. So, I assume I will need a new carburetor to block gasket too? Do you know which model carburetor my boat has?

Thanks again,
Darren
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:52 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Darren....get two fuel fitting gaskets and try it first without removing the carb. If it works you have a spare, if it doesn't work, you have it already. you should have a Holley marine 4160 vacuum secondary 600 cfm carb. Standard Holley base gasket for this. If you remove the carb, you should also remove the spacer and replace the gasket there as well. Same gasket as the carb base gasket. See how this snowballs?

As long as you have the carb off, use a Phillips head screwdriver to tighten the 8 screws that hold the base to the main body. These always can use a little tightening as the gasket compresses over time and is a source for a small vacuum leak.

Should I keep going?
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
22 - 26 ft. lbs.

That seems a little high to me but that is the recommendation. I'd ease into it with incremental passes on the torque and if it takes care of the issue, stop there.
I thought it was more like 20 ft/lbs, but couldn't remember off hand.
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