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  #61  
Old 03-06-2013, 11:47 PM
Scot Scot is offline
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I wont know until its back in, but it seems there is little to goof up on this 10-17. Pretty straight forward.

Got the shaft pulled, thanks for the tip Kyle. I can feel grooves where the strut bearings and packing rode, is there a runout tolerance or does that give me my answer?

Also, I would hate to put this all back together with a bad strut. Mine seems to be cocked a little by eyeballing, but hard to tell. Whats the proper way to check it?

What is the advantage of a dual taper shaft? I am looking for the way to get it back to normal with as little out of pocket as possible. Any tips on where to shop?
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  #62  
Old 03-07-2013, 12:41 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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This isnt good

Shaft is riding on the bottom of the shaft log. Has worn a groove into it. Pretty sure this means a strut problem.

The video on youtube of the correct craft guy explaining alignment is awesome. He mentions re-aligning a bent strut with side to side movement or spacers and 5200 or epoxy. Gonna try this before spending hundreds of dollars on a strut. Also considering putting a pipe wrench on it with a jack to see if I can bend it back somewhat so less movement is needed.

As for the shaft, I am guessing it will have to go with its wear, considering the misalignment. Im sure it will not fit nice and tight even with new bushings.
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  #63  
Old 03-07-2013, 12:54 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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regarding the shaft....

If it is straight and the grooves are the only problem, can it somehow be "filled" and then turned down?

or am I living in dream world and need to suck it up and buy a new one?

pretty sure I know my answer since its stainless steel
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  #64  
Old 03-07-2013, 01:12 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBenj View Post
Hopefully the tranny rebuild works out for you. Most people end up goofing something up (there seem to be a few tricks not covered in the manual) and end up pulling the trans a second time for a professional rebuild. That should only cost in the $700-800 range, so that $1200 quote you got is way out of bed.
Any insight as to what these tips may be? It seems like the clutch pack is the only place you can possibly screw up. And I have been assured by a few techs that there is no clearance to set on the older 10-17's, put it together and it will work. But it's not together yet (waiting for the UPS man still), there's still time.
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  #65  
Old 03-07-2013, 10:03 AM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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Nope... which is why I send my trannies out when they need a rebuild! Its about the only thing I wont touch on my boats. The cost difference ($300 max) between the parts alone vs. paying for someone to do the whole thing for me isnt enough to take the risk, IMHO. I know several people who did their own, thought they were A-OK and ended up having a super dirty neutral, or some other issue after getting back on the water. It seems there is a little more to it than whats stated in the manual, at least thats my impression.

I would say that shaft is junk if you can feel the grooves with your fingernail. The new dual tapers are no more expensive than the single tapers, and ARE uses a pretty high grade of stainless. The primary advantage of the dual taper is the ease of installation... rather than a press fit (involving heat/cold and quick action to install) the coupler end is keyed and tapered and held on with a nut (just like the prop).

Pete's video is pretty good from what I hear. Alignment is not that difficult if you understand the concept. Unless you can straighten that strut on the boat, it has to come off. I'd straighten it (off the boat) as best you can without damaging it, and then go through the process of aligning it to the shaft log. Some careful grinding on the strut base can help the front/aft angle sit better (as opposed to shimming alone). Get it all fit properly dry, then bed it in 5200. Once the strut and shaft are all back in, then align your powertrain to the shaft.
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  #66  
Old 03-07-2013, 11:14 AM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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This is where two guys start to disagree slightly. TRBenj knows his stuff and has a lot of knowledge but doesn't like fooling with tranny's. I too do not like fooling with them particularly but rebuilt my own. I never once felt like it wouldn't work. If I had one of my club members boats start having tranny problems then I feel confident enough to rebuild their tranny. I do not see the need to pay someone else if you follow the manual to the T. My manual is also different than any if the manuals you have seen online in this thread. Mine is step by step on every single piece. The manual makes it dummy proof and that is exactly what I needed.

I took my time and made sure every piece came out in the order that the book called for. The snap rings and different sealing rings that go on the shafts were also noted in order. Everything has a different thickness and my shop manual hits on the different thickness and size rings. I also use calipers on my ski so I double checked everything before install.

Iirc there is no way to adjust the clutches and the tech that you talked to is correct.

Scot, I would keep going and not sweat it. No need to have not needed stress at this point in the project. I'm pretty sure if you followed the directions to the T the you will be just fine. That tranny is very hard to tear up. It is very durable.




Ok the shaft. Remind me what year boat again. I know where a good slot shaft is that is true. If your set up will take this shaft I'll see if this member will be willing to part with it. I'm positive that it will be a ton cheaper than a new one. The new member bought a new strut and shaft and installed them and found out the old shaft was just fine bit has been to a machine shop and verified true.

Also on the shaft

I would fully remove it and see if it is straight.

Have you ever thought about going to a dripless shaft seal. I think that when you install the shaft and a dripless seal that the mating surface of the seals are in different locations on the shaft. Therefore you may be able to get away with using Emory cloth on the shaft to clean it up and installing a dripless system that seals in a new non grooved place on the shaft. Just an idea.
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Last edited by Kyle; 03-07-2013 at 11:29 AM.
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  #67  
Old 03-07-2013, 12:39 PM
Scot Scot is offline
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Kyle, its a 1981. Shaft is 1 1/8" and 42" long to the end of the threads.

No major bends noted by rolling it across a flat surface. As for the grooves the ones that concern me more are the ones at the strut. The shaft didn't drip excessively before so I think with new packing it would be fine.

Thanks for the encouragement. Like I said, seems like its going fine. Reassembly tonight if the UPS man shows up.

I want to get this stut alignment figured out before dropping it back in. Hope I can tweak it enough with some grinding/shimming, etc to line up. It's WAY off.
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  #68  
Old 03-07-2013, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scot View Post
Kyle, its a 1981. Shaft is 1 1/8" and 42" long to the end of the threads.

No major bends noted by rolling it across a flat surface. As for the grooves the ones that concern me more are the ones at the strut. The shaft didn't drip excessively before so I think with new packing it would be fine.

Thanks for the encouragement. Like I said, seems like its going fine. Reassembly tonight if the UPS man shows up.

I want to get this stut alignment figured out before dropping it back in. Hope I can tweak it enough with some grinding/shimming, etc to line up. It's WAY off.

Just remember that adjusting slightly on the strut will make big changes on the coupler side. The angle you claim "way" off prolly isn't off that much.

I would personally consider putting tranny back in first. Forget about the shaft problem right now.

Get the tranny back in and hooked up. If you have not fooled with any adjustments on the mounts then I bet you will start alignment in somewhat of a good ballpark figure. Get the mounts tightened to the stringer and tranny ready to roll. Start the boat and see if the tranny shifts correctly. After verifying correct tranny rebuild then fool with the strut.

If something freaky happened when you rebuilt the tranny and it has to be taken out again then the strut steps and pre alignment was all done for no reason and will have to be done again.

If you can roll the shaft then I'm sure it's fine. Remove the strut and start the strut install from scratch. Clean the strut and hull. Replace the strut bearings and install the strut after tranny is in. If strut is too far forward or backwards then that will change angles. The hull holes may be slightly ovaled over time and you probably can saveva ton of time starting fresh.

My .02
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If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....
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  #69  
Old 03-07-2013, 02:10 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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I'll inquire about the shaft if you want?
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"Heavy" beer is for wine drinkers that are too embarrassed to drink wine in front of their buddies. "Light" beer is a drinkin' man's beer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....
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  #70  
Old 03-07-2013, 02:23 PM
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Table Rocker Table Rocker is offline
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Kyle, awesome job in this thread. Above and beyond the call of duty, as you always do.
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