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  #41  
Old 02-25-2013, 10:16 AM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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The pump can wear out and look perfectly fine.

Basically the gaps in the pump wear and low rpm pressure is a problem. Then bring up the rpm and it slams into gear. Both in forward and reverse.



How much fluid came out of it? How much hit the floor?

I would clean the selector mechanism.

I would also take the bottom hose off and clean the screen filter in the bottom hose fitting.
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  #42  
Old 02-26-2013, 12:29 AM
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Not much fluid. But again fluid loss was my main problem. Couldnt trace it and I figured it had been happening for a while so I thats why I decided an overhaul was in order. I bought this boat last year, pulled the motor, stripped the hull and replaced stringers, only got to put a few hours on it last season.

Looked at the forward clutches today. They look worn, not destroyed but ready to go in my uneducated opinion.

Getting ready to go back together soon. The shaft/forward clutch/piston assembly has me contemplating options as I dont have a shop press:

1. Go buy a 12 ton shop press from Harbor freight, hoping I can disassemble and reassemble it myself. (Only $129 and nice to have anyway)

2. See if a shop will do it for me for cheap

3. Leave it as is since it looks like there is only one o-ring and one sealing ring that would be replaced in this process.

Thoughts?

Also, is it worth pulling the reduction unit? Looks like I would basically be doing that just to replace the gasket, I didnt see any other seals I would gain access to by pulling it. Not sure if I will be making a lot of extra work by opening it up.
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  #43  
Old 02-26-2013, 09:29 AM
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I wouldn't short-cut o-rings and seals at this point. A virtual guarantee that if left as is, you will be pulling this apart to replace these parts at an inconvenient time. As far as the press goes, I see the temptation to go with the Harbor Freight since the price isn't bad. You might get the press work done cheaply at a local marine shop.
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  #44  
Old 02-26-2013, 11:49 PM
Scot Scot is offline
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Yeah, I know, just needed someone else to say it.

I think I found a press I can use.
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  #45  
Old 02-28-2013, 12:14 AM
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I am now putting the clutch pack back together. I hope the issue I am about to ask about is normal and does not mean my ring gear is worn out. After placing all plates in the ring gear there is a snap ring that goes in front of the front pressure plate.

On mine, this ring does not snap into place tightly at all. When I put it in I can still pull the plates back out by hand. Looking at the ring gear the groove for this snap ring is so shallow it would hardly hold any snap ring in place firmly. However, I am not sure this matters. The outside of the dished spring would ride against this snap ring, so it seems like that should be holding it in place. Please tell me this is how it is supposed to be. If I need a new ring gear I shouldve just gone with a new tranny!

Its the top one here
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  #46  
Old 02-28-2013, 01:14 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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also, on the other side of the clutch pack, where there is supposed to be a snap ring for setting clutch clearance, there was nothing. Is that normal?
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  #47  
Old 02-28-2013, 09:57 AM
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It's been a while for me.

Remove everything out of the ring gear and take a real close up pic of where the clutches go.

Iirc the pressure plate that's a spring built inside of it and you must compress everything.


I seriously doubt that you need a new ring gear.



Take a pic of both sides of the snap ring as well. Is one side dished and the other flat? Both flat?
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  #48  
Old 02-28-2013, 01:26 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Scot

I have been through all of the service manuals on the thread posted by Tim Cantrepeat.

Ok while those manuals will be very helpful my manual that is too big to post is much simpler to understand.

Instructions copied word by word from my manual.

Step 5: Put the first pressure plate in the ring gear.

Step 6: starting with a friction clutch plate alternately stack friction clutch plates and steel clutch plates. Place pressure plate on top of the clutch plates.

Step 7: Install clutch plates and pnd pressure plates in ring gear.

Step 8: Install snap ring in ring gear

CAUTION: Several different snap rings are used to assemble the clutch group. They have different thicknesses. Be sure the correct snap ring is used

Step 9: Lubricate O-ring lightly with vasoline and install in groove of forward clutch cylinder

Step 10: Lubricate clutch spring bearing ring and piston sealing ring with vasoline.

Install clutch spring bearing ring in groove of piston

Install piston sealing ring in outer groove of piston

NOTE: Checkk that piston sealing ring is not twisted, cut, or deformed. Replace if damaged.

Step 11: Install piston in forward clutch cylinder

Step 12: Place clutch belleville (dish) spring inside rim of forward clutch. Spring is dished. The inside of the spring should be lower than the outside.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
"Heavy" beer is for wine drinkers that are too embarrassed to drink wine in front of their buddies. "Light" beer is a drinkin' man's beer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....
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  #49  
Old 02-28-2013, 01:28 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Here are some shop manual pics

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Hope this helps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
"Heavy" beer is for wine drinkers that are too embarrassed to drink wine in front of their buddies. "Light" beer is a drinkin' man's beer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....
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  #50  
Old 02-28-2013, 01:33 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
"Heavy" beer is for wine drinkers that are too embarrassed to drink wine in front of their buddies. "Light" beer is a drinkin' man's beer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....
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