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  #121  
Old 03-17-2013, 11:41 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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As this is a hardened shaft, the heating and cooling from welding may play a part in changing the hardness. I am not a metallurgist, or even play one on TV, but there are some folks on here that are qualified to speak to that.
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  #122  
Old 03-17-2013, 11:59 AM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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There are machinists qualified for the job, lots of machined, hardened shafts on heavy equipment, that are more cost effective to weld and grind. They just have to use the right process.

I know several machinists build up crank journals when appropriate replacement bearings are NLA - you can bet that is hardened as well.
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  #123  
Old 03-17-2013, 12:02 PM
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If the groove is from rubbing on the log and the groove doesn't contact any seal, I would leave it alone. I would think that the welding would be a bigger problem than the groove.

If you are concerned about it snapping off and the prop getting into the rudder, you might install a shaft anode above the strut. That would keep it from sliding back in the event of a shaft failure.

http://www.go2marine.com/product/990...aft-zincs.html
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  #124  
Old 03-17-2013, 12:39 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scot View Post
I found a machine shop that is willing to fill the grooves in my shaft and turn it back down.

Anyone have any input as to whether it is a good idea or not to try this?

If not I will probably just run this shaft as is. Not much play in the shaft once its in the strut, just want to reduce vibration if possible without replacing the shaft.

Also, does anyone know if vaseline will damage the cutlass bushings if I use it to check rotation while dry? I wouldn't think so but my transmission manual warned against using it on the seals as it can damage the rubber, not sure if that applies to something like these bushings.
Alterations in the HAZ of hardened metals typically (not always) require either (or both, depending) pre-weld heat tretment or post-weld heat treatment. with a controlled process to monitor the proper heat when pre-heating or post-heating (for controlled cool-down). That's it in a nut shell. Also depends on the metal as well.

Personally, I'd buy a new shaft and install. I would not rely on 5200, JB Weld, or any other supplemental product to secure a mechanical application. Your call. I know the objective is to be as frugal and self-serving as possible but in this case, I'd resort to a new part. If the groove is not in a sealed area and does not evidently present a vibration, run what you have the way it is.

On the other hand, if it were to work for your needs, all the better.

Any warp, wobble, or off-balance harmonic motion will eventually wear on the cutlass bearing.

I too would not think Vaseline would present a problem with the minimal application. Here's a link to the MSDS.
http://whatsinproducts.com/files/bra...sh%20Scent.pdf

Table Guy pretty well summed it up. +1

$0.02

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Last edited by Cloaked; 03-17-2013 at 12:52 PM.
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  #125  
Old 03-17-2013, 01:35 PM
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when I worked at an industrial machine shop it was very common to weld a shaft and turn in back down with the appropriate procedures. if the shaft rides on a seal I wouldn't hesitate to have it welded up
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  #126  
Old 03-17-2013, 11:25 PM
Scot Scot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Table Rocker View Post
If the groove is from rubbing on the log and the groove doesn't contact any seal, I would leave it alone. I would think that the welding would be a bigger problem than the groove.

If you are concerned about it snapping off and the prop getting into the rudder, you might install a shaft anode above the strut. That would keep it from sliding back in the event of a shaft failure.

http://www.go2marine.com/product/990...aft-zincs.html
The grooves are where it rode on the strut bushings and the packing. Some from the log, but as you mentioned, nothing to concern myself with. The packing didnt drip excessively, so not worried about that one too much either. Just dont want the shaft vibrating in the strut.
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  #127  
Old 03-17-2013, 11:41 PM
Scot Scot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
Personally, I'd buy a new shaft and install. I would not rely on 5200, JB Weld, or any other supplemental product to secure a mechanical application. Your call. I know the objective is to be as frugal and self-serving as possible but in this case, I'd resort to a new part. If the groove is not in a sealed area and does not evidently present a vibration, run what you have the way it is.

On the other hand, if it were to work for your needs, all the better.

Any warp, wobble, or off-balance harmonic motion will eventually wear on the cutlass
.
I agree and trust me I am not using the 5200 for any purpose other than sealing up the strut base and giving it a little extra bite to stay in place where I bolted it. My torquing on the strut seems to have set it right as the shaft is centered now, so strut is off the shopping list.

As for the shaft, there is very minimal play at the prop end when in place. However, I know there will be some vibration in my worn shaft in comparison to one with no groove at the bushing. If I can get it welded for cheap and not make things worse it would be worth it, otherwise I found a few places online that will make a new one for about $250. A dual taper would be nice, but I dont plan on frequent shaft replacements, so the old single taper will do.
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  #128  
Old 03-17-2013, 11:48 PM
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Back to original topic- transmission is in and bolted up. Shaft is lined up. Now its just hooking everything back up and seeing if it runs. Too late to run it tonight, will be a few days.

Last edited by Scot; 03-18-2013 at 01:18 AM.
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  #129  
Old 03-18-2013, 12:06 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Good to see things coming together on this. Anxious to hear how it works out.
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  #130  
Old 03-18-2013, 02:17 PM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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That $250 quote you got on the shaft doesnt include the coupler, does it? The $300-350 for the dual taper does. I have not found a new price on a single taper shaft + coupler that was lower than the dual taper system when using the appropriate discounts. Really, its a no brainer.

Again, with grooving on the shaft, I would not run it as-is. I would not invest a dime in trying to fix it. Just replace it, or risk ruining a day on the water, along with losing your prop, if it breaks.

Good job on getting the strut lined up (I assume you lined it up to the point where the shaft spun freely and was not sagging under its own weight?). Sometimes it takes a bit of coercion to get it there.
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