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Old 06-06-2013, 07:46 AM
malibu-dale malibu-dale is offline
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2013 engine oil

I just got my 2013 X-10 a month or so ago Was looking through my Ilmor book last night and see that "synthetic" 5w/30 is the "recommended" oil for the Ilmor motors now. Doesnt show any "alternate" acceptable oils. No more 15/40 these days? Seems like I have always used that in my boats. Wondering what has anyone else used in the 2013's? Or I guess I need to go find synthetic 5/30 in town? thanks
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:50 AM
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j.mccreight@hotmail.com j.mccreight@hotmail.com is offline
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Use whats recommended in the owners manual, especially in the warranty period.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:05 AM
xbot50000 xbot50000 is offline
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I only use what the engine maker recommends, after all they're the ones that make the engine.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:43 AM
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Sotipnomon Sotipnomon is offline
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I am in the oil business, selling it not big caddy with horns type, and oil isn't what it used to be. The move to lighter weight oil is driven by efficiency standards, thinner oil takes less energy to pump around the engine. This may not apply to our boats, yet, but, the engines and their internals were designed to flow the lower viscosity lubricant. I highly suggest using the recommended viscosity. Additionally, IMHO, anyone not using at least a synthetic blend in everything and full synthetic in anything newer or high performance is crazy. Spend the money up front and extend the change interval, you'll spend the same relatively and protect the equipment better.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:57 AM
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Miss Rita Miss Rita is offline
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15W-40 is definitely "old school", it works for my 1991 Ski Pro w/5.7 MerCruiser, and my 1992 ProStar w/ 351 Indmar, but it clearly isn't the best choice for new high tech, highly-stressed engines. New engines need oil "flow", and the best way to do that is to use lower viscosity oils.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:23 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is online now
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go with the synthetic - it has superior shear strength even if motor starts to overheat (cheap insurance if you pickup something on raw water intake) - another reason they can raise the efficiency. My 02 van takes 5w20 - pours like water... but engine runs great!
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:23 AM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sotipnomon View Post
Spend the money up front and extend the change interval, you'll spend the same relatively and protect the equipment better.
It's OK to ignore the engine manufacturer's oil change recommendations?
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:29 AM
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Sotipnomon Sotipnomon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmac View Post
It's OK to ignore the engine manufacturer's oil change recommendations?
No, most manufactures have allowed for the longer lasting additive packages in modern oil in their recommended change intervals. I'm saying the old 3 mos or 3,000 miles rule (or boating equivalent) doesn't necessarily still apply.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmac View Post
It's OK to ignore the engine manufacturer's oil change recommendations?
Ok - now you're gonna start an oil debate...

Synthetic all the way for me... - all top tier oils very good - use the right viscosity... I would never change the interval on the boat - running higher revs is rough on the oil - dino or synth... plus its cheap - even VR-1 20w50 or Royal Purple 20w50 is cheap compared to new motor - and the oils are cool colors
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sotipnomon View Post
No, most manufactures have allowed for the longer lasting additive packages in modern oil in their recommended change intervals. I'm saying the old 3 mos or 3,000 miles rule (or boating equivalent) doesn't necessarily still apply.
I like how you did not totally commit to a statement... my manufacturer does not recommend going past the interval regardless of type of oil used.
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