starter only clicks

[TRBenj]

If the boat was run any significant amount, the alternator would have topped off the new battery. That being said, hopefully you didnt buy a deep cycle (marine) battery? Those are intended for long, slow draws (trolling motors and stereo systems) and not short, high amp draws like starting a V8 engine. If thats what you have, then it may be a big part of your problem.

I cant tell you how many times I have seen this happen on my boats or others. Dozens. Have replaced 2 starters, so they do go out and cause these symptoms... but they are the true cause <10% of the time. So I agree with those above who are telling you that replacing the starter at this point is premature.

[1redTA]

I had to replace the wire running from the battery to the starter and the ground wire. I would check the resistance for those as well, it should be nominal. When checking, wiggle the connections that is when my battery cables were really messed up

[Jibber]

I have same issue with mine 2012 X2 with the ilmore 6.0. Sometimes i try to start the engine, the starter only clicks. After some trys it work. After i told my dealer about this problem, he send me this troubleshooting sheet from mastercraft below. But i don´t understand how to fix this problem. I looked at the connections and everything looks fine like it should in the pictures. What do they mean with "relocate the clean power wire". I looked at this cable and its on the right position where it should. Has any of you an idea? Here are an pic from mine.

[bcd]

Originally Posted by Jibber

I have same issue with mine 2012 X2 with the ilmore 6.0. Sometimes i try to start the engine, the starter only clicks. After some trys it work. After i told my dealer about this problem, he send me this troubleshooting sheet from mastercraft below. But i don´t understand how to fix this problem. I looked at the connections and everything looks fine like it should in the pictures. What do they mean with "relocate the clean power wire". I looked at this cable and its on the right position where it should. Has any of you an idea? Here are an pic from mine.

The way I read that is to move the clean power from the starter terminal over to where the starter connects to the battery switch, however, that is a poorly written service bulletin and is not very clear. I looked on the electrical schematic I have, but it doesn't break down the engine/starter circuit to tell where exactly each of the wires go. It also doesn't have any wires labeled as clean power, but I think they are referring to the 14 Ga Yel/Red (start) wire on the schematic.

If I were you, I would call MC directly and speak to their tech support to give complete clarification on which wire to move from where to where before doing anything.

[Jibber]

Thanks for the reply! I´ll try to contact Mastercraft directly. Hopefully i get an response. For Europeans it´s difficult to get informations from them. Even for Dealers.

[Hunterb]

I think your problem is in the starter solenoid. I've encountered this many times. If the starter clicks but does not engage, but will if you try enough times, it is not the battery or the connections. You need to remove the starter and dismantle the solenoid. Look closely at how the solenoid works. If it works that way I think it does you will notice that there is a terminal on each side of the solenoid that the main power to the starter runs through. When you turn the key to 'start' the solenoid is energized and a 'ring' slides up and makes contact with an L shaped copper washer on each side of the solenoid. This allows the power through to the starter motor and away you go. What often happens is that the two copper washers wear at different rates for some reason and then start to fail to make a good enough contact to allow the voltage through. The ' click' you hear is the solenoid 'ring' sliding up and hitting the contacts, but unfortunately it is only hitting one of them. The reason it will, or may, eventually work is that each time you try it the ring comes up in a slightly different angle and may make a good enough connection. What usually happens is that you have to try a few times, and then more and more and eventually it will just click away and never make contact. You should be able to purchase the copper L shaped washers for less than $10.00 and it is relatively easy to replace them. I've saved lots of people from the expense of a new starter with this simple repair.

Do not confuse this with the repetitive clicking that will occur if you have a bad battery or connections. That is a different problem. I believe your problem will be solved by repalcing the L shaped contacts in the solenoid. I hope so anyway. Good luck with it!!

Bruce

[Hunterb]

Hi again,

If you look at the picture that is a couple of posts up you will see what I'm talking about. The two big red wires are on either side of the solenoid. One comes from the battery, one goes into the starter. The small black wire comes from the key and energizes the solenoid which causes it to slide up which does two things 1) it engages the drive gear in the flywheel BEFORE it starts spinning and 2) it completes the connection between the two big red wires allowing the power through to the motor so it starts spinning. If you dismantle the solenoid you will find the L shaped copper washers in there right inside where the two big red wires attach. Replace those washers and you will be good to go. You MAY even be able to adjust them as sometimes they are attached with an elongated hole allowing you to move them up or down. It's very likely that you will find one is much thinner than the other and you may be able to move it down so it makes proper contact.

Many people don't know about this simple repair and waste a ton of money on a new starter. I hate buying new things when a simple fix makes the old one work.

Good luck.

Bruce

[marko]

I had that same problem on my '90 PS190. I replaced the starter, solenoid, battery cables, ignition switch, cleaned every connection possible, etc. One time when it 'did it' on the lake I put a test light right on the starter solenoid where the wire comes from the key (yellow?) switch, turned the key and: intermittent low voltage at the solenoid. As a temporary fix I put a smaller extra solenoid (marine rated) next to the starter that is activated off that wire from the key, that in turn energizes the main starter solenoid. The real fix is to run a new heavier wire from the key switch to the starter solenoid, but my 'temporary' fix is still working fine after about 19 years.
A friend had the same issue, he ran a new wire. Neither of us have had a problem (that one anyway) since.

[thatsmrmastercraft]

Originally Posted by marko

I had that same problem on my '90 PS190. I replaced the starter, solenoid, battery cables, ignition switch, cleaned every connection possible, etc. One time when it 'did it' on the lake I put a test light right on the starter solenoid where the wire comes from the key (yellow?) switch, turned the key and: intermittent low voltage at the solenoid. As a temporary fix I put a smaller extra solenoid (marine rated) next to the starter that is activated off that wire from the key, that in turn energizes the main starter solenoid. The real fix is to run a new heavier wire from the key switch to the starter solenoid, but my 'temporary' fix is still working fine after about 19 years.
A friend had the same issue, he ran a new wire. Neither of us have had a problem (that one anyway) since.

Low voltage is low voltage. It is just a matter of finding the source and resolving it. Sounds like you guys did.

[TRBenj]

Originally Posted by marko

I had that same problem on my '90 PS190. I replaced the starter, solenoid, battery cables, ignition switch, cleaned every connection possible, etc. One time when it 'did it' on the lake I put a test light right on the starter solenoid where the wire comes from the key (yellow?) switch, turned the key and: intermittent low voltage at the solenoid. As a temporary fix I put a smaller extra solenoid (marine rated) next to the starter that is activated off that wire from the key, that in turn energizes the main starter solenoid. The real fix is to run a new heavier wire from the key switch to the starter solenoid, but my 'temporary' fix is still working fine after about 19 years.
A friend had the same issue, he ran a new wire. Neither of us have had a problem (that one anyway) since.

Verifying that the ignition key and wiring are providing the proper 12v "start" signal to the solenoid is certainly something to do when troubleshooting. Well in advance of parts swapping, obviously. However, based on the symptoms described (below) it is clear that there is a problem in the primary voltage path (battery to starter).

Originally Posted by GregBR549

I can put a screwdriver across the terminals on the starter and it sparks when it makes the connection, but does not turn the engine over.