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  #21  
Old 02-01-2013, 09:17 AM
MLA MLA is offline
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I concur, your current 2ga connecting the battery banks' GND will be fine.
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  #22  
Old 02-01-2013, 06:37 PM
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jafo9 jafo9 is offline
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so the AMEX is feeling the pain right now. I ordered the SD2, WS-420 and the REV8s with the swivel mounts. Big thanks to David and Earmark for all the help and the discount. I also ordered all the wiring from genuinedealz and all the fuses and blocks as laid out in an earlier post from KnuKonceptz. All that is left is the RCA jacks from the WS-420 which will be mounted in the starboard helm that will have to run around the bow to the amps in the port helm. Unfortunately, KnuKoncepz didn't have RCA cables long enough. I think I'll need 25ft and the longest they had was 20ft. Again, big thanks to all that have helped.

One more question, on the fuse blocks, does the positive or negative block get the 120amp fuses?
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  #23  
Old 02-01-2013, 06:41 PM
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JRW160 JRW160 is offline
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Originally Posted by jafo9 View Post
One more question, on the fuse blocks, does the positive or negative block get the 120amp fuses?
Positive
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  #24  
Old 02-01-2013, 09:47 PM
bsloop bsloop is offline
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I have had good luck with Cables to Go. Velocity series is tough with good shielding. I dont think you would need to step up any higher. Determine the model #. http://www.cablestogo.com/category/a...e=24&view=list
Amazon has good pricing.
I have two 50' cables we throw to other boats for direct patch (cleaner at high power than bluetooth and more reliable) Also HU to amp cords and 3.5 to RCA.
Run patch and speaker cable separate from power wire preferably.

The primary Pos fuse must have 3 equal fuses, assuming u bought as suggested, they will all be 60a to yeild 180a total.

Assuming you ordered two KNF-23, both Pos and Neg will be fused. (traditionally only one side needs to be fused but more modern setups will fuse both for better protection and at little more cost)
Fuse each component according to its power needs. RF pos and neg should get 80a. Fuse WS power wires with 120a.

Keep the spares on the boat along with an appropriate allen wrench if you dont keep a set in your onboard tool kit.
Assuming you bought a spare set of 5x60a, load a 60a in the third unused position. If you ever happen to blow one, a simple change of power wire locations will have you up and going in minutes if you dont want to take time for a full replacement. (make sure you know why the fuse blew)

Apply die-electric grease to every connection and fuse.
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  #25  
Old 02-02-2013, 10:25 AM
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jafo9 jafo9 is offline
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thanks for the reply. i used your post as a shopping list and it was extremely helpful. also, thanks for telling me how to deploy the fuses. now i just need the weather to cooperate when my "toys" arrive so i can start the install.
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  #26  
Old 03-02-2013, 10:27 AM
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jafo9 jafo9 is offline
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so the REV8's with the swivel mounts are in their new home on the rear bar of my OEM 02 tower. the next step is to mount the SD2 and the Knukoncepz fuse blocks. my thoughts are that the stock mounting pad already glassed in to the wall of the port helm should have enough room for the new SD2 the old Rockford Fosgate punch P400 and the 2 fuse blocks. i'll just have to reroute the heater ducting. it looks like i have a depth of 1/2 inch to drill and stay safe. does this sound correct? any particular recommendation on screws. also, what the best way to limit how deep my bit can drill. i spent about 20 minutes in home depot yesterday looking at all the drill bit stuff and i couldn't find any kind of depth limiter. thanks for all your help.
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  #27  
Old 03-02-2013, 11:38 AM
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EarmarkMarine EarmarkMarine is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jafo9 View Post
so the REV8's with the swivel mounts are in their new home on the rear bar of my OEM 02 tower. the next step is to mount the SD2 and the Knukoncepz fuse blocks. my thoughts are that the stock mounting pad already glassed in to the wall of the port helm should have enough room for the new SD2 the old Rockford Fosgate punch P400 and the 2 fuse blocks. i'll just have to reroute the heater ducting. it looks like i have a depth of 1/2 inch to drill and stay safe. does this sound correct? any particular recommendation on screws. also, what the best way to limit how deep my bit can drill. i spent about 20 minutes in home depot yesterday looking at all the drill bit stuff and i couldn't find any kind of depth limiter. thanks for all your help.
Drill bit stops are common. Perhaps try Sears. But you can make your own from any solid tube or sleeve material. Just cut a few pieces of small aluminum or PVC tube (standard Home Depot stuff) in various increments that are a diameter that will rest aginst the chuck. Then to fine tune, adjust the bit depth in the chuck. Or, tape up the bit with colored tape as a visual reference as to where to stop.

David
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  #28  
Old 03-02-2013, 02:56 PM
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thanks for the tip about the pvc. i've got some scraps laying around that will do nicely. now if it would just stop snowing so i can get back to work.
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