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  #41  
Old 02-17-2013, 08:49 PM
46Chief 46Chief is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barefoot View Post
Chief...what are you using to clean the components?
I scrub everything with hot water and dawn dish soap to remove the grease. You'd be surprised what a week will do for nasty, neglected, corroded parts soaking in a highly concentrated solution.

Then I strip with media:

Plastic beads for the painted parts like the platform brackets.

I'll also give it a quick once over with dry glass bead to shine steel brackets up.



Wish I had access to a HD soda blaster.

Last edited by 46Chief; 02-17-2013 at 11:41 PM.
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  #42  
Old 02-18-2013, 08:25 AM
02ProstarSammyD 02ProstarSammyD is offline
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Looking good man. Only 5000 more things to do. I'll check in the garage but I might have another set of components you can have for the stereo. If not you can get a cheap set of kickers or polks for sub 100 bucks to replace the 6 1/2"s
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  #43  
Old 02-18-2013, 09:39 AM
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fskof fskof is offline
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Originally Posted by 46Chief View Post
Can't figure out what the D is in the engine code and I don't have the injection system or cover to tell.

Hull ID# is: MBCDTMA2E202
If you gave a dealer that vin number they should be able to tell you what that boat had when it left the factory. If the dealer wont then try Mastercraft.

By your hull id it looks like you have a 2002 and not a 2003. The last two numbers are the model year.

Great project you have on your hands. I have a 2003 209 with the MCX so if you have any questions just ask and I will try to help

For the carpet I would rent a carpet cleaner and use some oxy clean on the stains. I think it can be saved and you will save some $$$ by not needing to replace it!

You also have a heater. How bad is the heater coil? It should be located under the front seat in front of the dashboard.
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  #44  
Old 02-18-2013, 01:15 PM
46Chief 46Chief is offline
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Yep it's an 02, not sure how came up with 03. I pulled the heater already, the hoses were cut, so I suppose it's junk, I haven't tried to tear it apart yet, I figure when I'm ready I'll see if i can flow water through it, give it a little pressure test and see where I'm at. Darn things are too simple for what they charge for them, kind of think like the ballast pumps you just can't replace or repair the broken parts inexpensively. I really like having a heater in the boat, but all funds go into gettin the boat running and on the water so I can use it this summer accessories like stereo, ballast and heat will have to wait.

Thanks for the offer 02ProstarSammyD, I might take you up on it, but will probably just buy new. I should check to see if the head unit is any good...Most likely not, considering that pretty much all the accessories I have found are worn out and broken.

I keep telling myself not to curse the previous owner about how he treated this boat, because I wouldn't have this project and be into a the boat I was going to work up to. I am cursing the dealer for not selling them a closed cooling system on a known saltwater boat and selling them a terrible trailer.

I also think it's a testament to MC build quality that the hull is as good of shape as it's in considering the abuse and neglect.

When someone asks that question why not put a non-marine longblock or shortblock, my answer would be because all the fasteners and brackets involved are stainless or cad plated, not to mention the other corrosion proofing that we don't know. I thought for sure I'd be buying a broken,stripped bolt extracting set from the snap-on guy by now. Only have had some sticky stainless screws from the interior parts.
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  #45  
Old 02-18-2013, 01:18 PM
02ProstarSammyD 02ProstarSammyD is offline
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Quote:
Thanks for the offer 02ProstarSammyD, I might take you up on it, but will probably just buy new. I should check to see if the head unit is any good...Most likely not, considering that pretty much all the accessories I have found are worn out and broken.
good b/c the component set I have left is a 5 1/4 set. Nickspi is getting my 6 1/2"s unfortunately. Still need to get that merc in there. Better hurry up on 45 days til season starts for you guys I imagine!
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  #46  
Old 02-25-2013, 03:04 PM
02ProstarSammyD 02ProstarSammyD is offline
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I require updates here!
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  #47  
Old 02-27-2013, 12:21 PM
46Chief 46Chief is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02ProstarSammyD View Post
I require updates here!
Worked through the weekend at my pay the bills job... gotta get that OT to pay for the all the parts I'll need.

I was able to spend some quality time with my boat.

Used a sawzall to cut the drivers seat from the pedestal.

Then grabbed a hammer and some more penetrant to see if these tracks will come of.


Nope....Need a bigger hammer, or just open the latch.



Sorry no after shot but they came out and thankfully the screws came loose.

Just gave it a good soap and water scrubbing to see what I'm dealing with... The rust stains in this upholstery are gonna drive me bonkers. Looking like the seats are going to be able to get me through a season or two before I want to reupholster.



Got up too early Saturday to get ready for a long day at work... and do something about this mess.



Sorry no action shots.... too busy trying to get it out with a sketchy cherry picker and create any new problems.

Made a stop on the way home.



Looking better, hoping to get back into it if it warms up and stops raining to scrub the bilge and carpets hard.



Again those rust stains, remember if you have beige carpet and set something steel and rusting on them....your gonna be cussing and spitting and well, you get the idea.
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  #48  
Old 03-06-2013, 09:06 AM
02ProstarSammyD 02ProstarSammyD is offline
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Quote:
Looking better, hoping to get back into it if it warms up and stops raining to scrub the bilge and carpets hard.
power washer...........

You can rent a steam cleaner and do it but not sure its worth it. I did it on mine for mcocd purposes. Hit the bad spots with la awesome, clothes detergent for the rest. scrub the meh areas and powerwash the rest. Bilge you can fill up with cleaner and the plug on the drive over haha.
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  #49  
Old 03-16-2013, 03:40 PM
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fskof fskof is offline
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Try some oxy clean on the carpet. As for the the rust stains, if the seats are white (hard to tell with the pic) try a little bleach on just the rust spots! Dab a little bleach on a towel or q-tip and rub it on JUST THE RUST SPOTS! DO NOT WIPE THE ENTIRE SEAT WITH BLEACH. It should remove the rust spots or make them less noticeable for the season or two before you want to reupholster them.
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Last edited by fskof; 03-17-2013 at 01:20 PM.
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  #50  
Old 03-21-2013, 12:43 PM
46Chief 46Chief is offline
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Thanks for the bleach tip, I'll be giving it a shot tomorrow, hopefully I'll get a warm day this weekend to try and do some super scrubbing on the carpet.

No real updates I have the bilge area squeaky clean and have a pretty much all the the parts I've removed cleaned up and ready for paint and plate. I'll post pics of the finished parts soon.

Just around 6 weeks to my goal of being seaworthy and I'm starting to stress, My engine options are slim and expensive. I'm leaning towards re-powering with a brand new PCM engine because I'm told it will work with the analog gauge system and will run w/o a catalytic converter. but that is going to be nearly 10K installed and dialed in.

I have a line on a used 2005 MCX, but I have to convert from analog to digital throttle and gauges add another 2k to a 3500 dollar engine with an unknown history and I'm thinking the reliability of the PCM will be worth the extra money.

If I could find an LTR intake manifold I'd consider a longblock, and piece back the old engine, but that reliability issue of the fuel injection and the prospect of a bunch of NLA parts rears it's ugly stinking head again.

Last but not least I have a 4bolt main 350 block and a set of heads It's tempting to build my self a carburated motor for under 1000.00, but would still have to get the instrument in the dash to function, and I really want to keep the resale value of this boat in the event I want to try something different down the road.
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