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  #11  
Old 12-15-2012, 04:32 PM
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Nice write-up Kyle.
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  #12  
Old 12-15-2012, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
Here is a thread on how to fix your stiff steering.

Stiff steering could be a bad cable, stale grease in the rudder box, a bad helm, or stale grease in the cable housing.

After gaining access to the steering cable and rudder box, remove the cable from the box and remove the cable from the bracket that holds the cable to the hull.

It should now look like this.

Attachment 87643
Can you demonstrate this on Mike O's SN?
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  #13  
Old 12-15-2012, 06:03 PM
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tsst tsst, snapon screwdrivers are not to be used as pry bars, chisels or punches.
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Last edited by j.mccreight@hotmail.com; 12-15-2012 at 06:27 PM.
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  #14  
Old 12-15-2012, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.mccreight@hotmail.com View Post
tsst tsst, snapon screwdrivers are not to be used as pry bars, chisels or punches.
That's what Harbour Freight is for
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  #15  
Old 12-16-2012, 08:45 PM
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I think you know, but just in case, remember that the zerk (grease) fitting that goes into the steering cable/tube needs to not have the internal check valve. That is so that extra grease can be released and be expeled via the zerk. Otherwise, your steering can be very, very tight or even locked up. A normal zerk fitting will cause you problems at that location.

Good luck - let us know how the steering feels. You know, before/after, etc.
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  #16  
Old 12-17-2012, 02:50 AM
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Can you demonstrate this on Mike O's SN?
I take it his boat is real stiff?
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2012, 02:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.mccreight@hotmail.com View Post
tsst tsst, snapon screwdrivers are not to be used as pry bars, chisels or punches.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
That's what Harbour Freight is for
LOL

I used it as a punch and pry bar to open up the rudder arm off the rudder. Warranty never asks anyway. Oh well
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"Heavy" beer is for wine drinkers that are too embarrassed to drink wine in front of their buddies. "Light" beer is a drinkin' man's beer!
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If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2012, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiDaddy View Post
I think you know, but just in case, remember that the zerk (grease) fitting that goes into the steering cable/tube needs to not have the internal check valve. That is so that extra grease can be released and be expeled via the zerk. Otherwise, your steering can be very, very tight or even locked up. A normal zerk fitting will cause you problems at that location.

Good luck - let us know how the steering feels. You know, before/after, etc.

Correct. I found that out after putting everything together it was worse.


The grease fitting can not be a one way valve.

The tiller arm that has the fitting that attaches to the cable must spin. If its too tight things won't work.

The cable bracket that has the ball joint needs to be free enough to rotate.


Everything I did was too tight and the steering would not work.


After trying to figure everything out in my head and how or why it works the way it does and several beers later I have loose steering.


Test drove today and was very impressed. Like it was able to palm steer in turns. It drove like a new boat.


Basically I cleaned every piece of the steering system besides the helm. Before cleaning anything I took the cable off of the rudder and the ball joint bracket loose. Tried to turn the wheel both ways and the cable was real stiff. After hours of cleaning every piece the cable, it would turn flawlessly. Then I re assembled the cable to the rudder and found that it would not turn. Removed it and it worked great. Re installed did not work. Eliminated every moving piece 1at a time until I found the tiller joint was not spinning on the bolt like it was supposed to. Steering got better but was still very hard. Took the grease fitting off completely and baddabing pressure relief and everything worked great.

First time fooling with the steering and honestly I'm glad it was a success.


Key lessons. Don't over tighten parts that are designed to rotate, spin, or have play. Lesson 2 that took an hour or so of time was the grease fitting. Once removing it and it worked I just left it off like the cable was before I started. When greasing from now on I will put it in just to apply grease. That or maybe I'll cut down the fitting so the valve can be removed. This will make it 2 way fitting.


Hope this helps someone in the future.
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If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....

Last edited by Kyle; 12-17-2012 at 03:12 AM.
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  #19  
Old 12-17-2012, 10:04 AM
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Nice how-to on greasing up the old rod, Kyle!! You're gonna need to do one on greasing the rudder box now.
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2012, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
Nice how-to on greasing up the old rod, Kyle!! You're gonna need to do one on greasing the rudder box now.
Well the cable generally is the problem and I have 2 friends that have real bad steering. Thread was more designed to assist them. Now it looks like I have a SN friend that has bad steering.


I thought someone else did a how to lube the box

Just thought I would do one on how to grease the rod for the box.
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If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....
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