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  #1  
Old 12-10-2012, 12:33 PM
redraider08 redraider08 is offline
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Brass Ball Valve

What is the difference between a brass ball valve you get at a department store such as Lowes and a brass ball valve you would find on a Marine Parts website. Below is a link to a couple of lowes valves and a graco valve from wholesalemarine.com. Thanks!

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/pc/GR...all+Valve.html

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...ductId=3726488

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...ductId=3354588
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  #2  
Old 12-10-2012, 12:41 PM
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MattsCraft MattsCraft is offline
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No experience here, but the marine version has a Stainless Steel handle, probably why the up-charge, plus it is from a "marine store"
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:53 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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Marine plumbing is bronze, as opposed to just brass. The bronze is less susceptible to salt water and galvanic corrosion, which is not a huge deal with a fresh water trailer boat. Most of the standard plumbing parts are tapered pipe thread, where as marine plumbing can be found with straight threads.

Last edited by MLA; 12-10-2012 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:20 PM
redraider08 redraider08 is offline
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http://www.lowes.com/pd_311481-18701...lve&facetInfo=

Here is a link to a bronze valve from lowes, would this be a good less expensive alternative? Also, what advantages does the straight threads give?
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:38 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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Its more about matting like threads. Some marine plumbing fittings are straight threads. Its hard to get a good solid fit between pipe and straight.
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:59 PM
redraider08 redraider08 is offline
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So if you try to connect the valve from lowes to a thru hull intake you will most likely not get a good fit and could leak. That sounds like a good reason to go with the marine valves, i just wanted to know why i will be paying double before i installed my ballast system. Thanks for the input!
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:26 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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yes, if your t-hull is straight threads and the b/v is pipe, the t-hull will not thread very deep into the valve.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:52 PM
redraider08 redraider08 is offline
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What about threading the tsunami pump into the valve? I looked at the 1200 gpm pump with the 1 inch inlet and the threads were tapered.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:01 AM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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I've read a lot of Compass Marine's articles, and he has a bit to say about using inexpensive Brass valves here (read down a few pages). Of course, he's mostly discussing salt-water cruising, so his opinions may not directly apply to your situation.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:26 AM
MLA MLA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redraider08 View Post
What about threading the tsunami pump into the valve? I looked at the 1200 gpm pump with the 1 inch inlet and the threads were tapered.
The Attwood Tsunami 4663-7 with its 1" NPT is best suited to screw right on top of the ball-valve. If bilge depth is an issue, then use a 90* elbow. This gets the pump vertical, but make sure the pump's outlet is oriented up. Another option is to use a pump like the Rule 1100, which is actually faster in a real world test, and .75" thru-hull and ball-valve. Even though this pump cost more, the price difference between the .75" thru-hull and B/V and the 1" bronze closes the gap. Both the T1200 and the Rule 1100 use a 1.125" outlet, so the same 1" hose can be fitted.
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