header |
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
|
Dont limit yourself to one technique I have used all (with sucess)when working with millwrights at a industrial machine shop.
__________________
1981 MasterCraft 19' Skier 351W PowerSlot Deluxe Long gone is the Trans AM
|
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
|
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
|
I have never used PB Blaster, but I have read and heard a lot about that stuff. I do know that Kroil is really some excellent stuff. I used to be and probably still will be on the CCF site(CorectCraft Fan) a lot (being an owner of a Nautique), and many on that site have switched to Kroil. I have used that stuff for many years working in the Tool and Die trade and can truthfully say that it works. I feel that it may be a little pricey, but if it prevents frustration and temper flares,.... it's worth it. Just google it to read something about it. Remember the write up is by the people who sell it though.
|
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
|
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
|
Best penetrating oil (You will be surprised)
Quote: April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test wrote: They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Penetrating oil ...... Average load ..... Price per fluid ounce None .................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................. 238 pounds ...... $0.25 PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds ...... $0.35 Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds ...... $0.21 Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds ...... $0.75 ATF-Acetone mix ....... 53 pounds ...... $0.10 (50/50 mix) The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Kind of surprising, but that mix (50-50) is what I use. Word of caution - don't use a foam cup to mix it in. (Yeah, don't ask me how I know this) :twisted: I mix mine in a glass jar with a good sealed lid - it does loose its effectiveness after time - it's best to mix up a small "fresh" batch for best results. I then pour it into an ALL metal squirt can to apply/use. |
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
|
|
#17
|
||||
|
||||
|
+1 on the info. I'm going to try that too minus the foam cup.
![]() ![]() ![]() |
|
#18
|
||||
|
||||
|
+2 on the information, thanks
|
|
#19
|
||||
|
||||
|
Well as it stands right now, I have no broken/stripped bolts, but I do have definite signs of leaking from the riser gaskets, and rust stains from said leakage going down the manifolds. But I'll definitely be mixing up some of that atf/acetone stuff and trying it. If I can get those bolts to break loose with a minimum amount of trouble and an appropriate solvent I'll do it. Thanks for all the info. That's awesome.
__________________
1984 Stars and Stripes Powerslot White with blue stripes. |
|
#20
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|