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Old 11-30-2012, 12:31 AM
Powerful Powerful is offline
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2007 X-45 8.1L Engine Repair/Replace/Removal

I have a great friend with a 2007 MC X-45 with 600 hours on it. Not sure what happened but a leak in the cylinder cause a hydrolock situation when the engine sat for a few hours. He was quote $7800 to replace the engine through the dealership. The engine runs when the cylinder is cleared but there is a knock. I have not heard the noise but to me there is a huge difference between a knock and a tap. So I'm under the impression that it either bent a connecting rod or possibly something in the valve train. The boat has had some issue as well. The dampener plate came apart and destroyed the bell housing and the trans mount. Fortunately the trans made it. The ECU fried some how and the starter was smoked during the on lake diag process.

I got the boat and since I have jumped inside and prepped the engine for removal.
I disconnected:
Fuel Line
Alternator Wires
Starter removed
upper EFI harness
Oil cooler
raw water
and removed the impeller housing for room to work

I was going to slide the engine out without removing the trans/v-drive with the engine but I'm having some issues finding a diagram of some photos of a Indmar engine in the bell housing/flywheel/dampener area.

I was told that I should take great care if I remove the engine from the trans because the drive shaft goes through the trans into the v-drive. I have not even shined a light into the trans area.

So as simple as this might sound, I would imagine that the flywheel is bolted to the crank like an auto. My next guess is there is a plate of some sort that is bolted to the flywheel. The dampener plate, like a clutch, probably has splines and the transmission input shaft gets power though that connection.

My thought, like I would and have done on many auto's, is to get the engine on the crane and apply a light lift. Like just enough to get the engine resting on the crane chain. While at the same time removing the engine mounts from the engine block and not disturbing the engine alignment. While the engine hanging on the crane I will simply slide the engine forward far enough away from the bell housing to lift the engine out. There is plenty of room in the engine compartment. The last part is to support the trans/v-drive. I plan to leave the trans mounts bolted in place and use some straps to hang the trans off the ski pylon truss.

Will this engine removal process work? Has anyone tried to remove it this way?

I have about 30 minutes invested into the project right now. If it will come out this way I'm thinking I will have the engine out in under an hour total.

The hardest part so far has been getting the rubber exhaust hoses loose. I had to use my feet to get them off.

I will post pictures as I go from here.

Last edited by Powerful; 11-30-2012 at 11:06 AM. Reason: TYPO
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2012, 08:28 AM
snork snork is offline
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Curious 8.1 or MCX
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2012, 08:36 AM
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ttu ttu is offline
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snork, is title says 8.1
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:28 AM
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willyt willyt is offline
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yes, but in the post it says MCX.

7,800 is alot for a replacement MCX.... I'm not sure they would even offer a replacement L18 now since GM isnt making that block anymore. I know there are alot of suppliers out there that you could probably pick that block up from, but why??? just go with the LS3 from indmar or ilmore.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:46 AM
Powerful Powerful is offline
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Sorry the MCX is a typo. Was supposed to be MC.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:53 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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The engine has its own harness, the boat has its own and they meet at a plug that mates with a receptacle at the rear of the engine (where the flywheel is, not the rear of the boat). The alternator and other electrical stuff can stay on. Also, to remove hoses, they make tools for releasing the hose- all sizes. AFAIK, nothing bolts to the flywheel- the transmission has a splined shaft that fits into the rear of the crankshaft and you'll need to lift the engine without any tilt- it will not only bind, but it could cause problems for the shaft/coupler. You may find it better to pull the engine AND the transmission together.

Unless a cylinder was perforated, I'm not sure why the engine needs to be replaced. It's a GM 5.7L- they're easy to work on and find parts.

There are few ways to smoke an ECM or starter- connecting the battery and turning the key to ON is the most efficient for both. "Somehow" is mis-leading- these don't "somehow" die. There's always a reason.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:06 AM
Powerful Powerful is offline
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The starter was smoked when the cylinder was hydrolocked and the owner didn't know it. I have no idea why the ECM died.

I had no issues with any of the hoses. The exhaust couplers were stiff so I had to use my feet to push them off.

There is a knock and the engine was hydrolocked so it's coming apart to check the #7 connecting rod and bearing. While it is out I will put new rings and bearings in the short block. Replace the gaskets and have the valve train looked over. I'm estimating the cost will be under $1000.

The boat was at a MC dealer and the dealer suggested that the engine needed to replaced. That's all I know. The dealer is S&W in Denver. It's an AWESOME dealership and I trust their judgement but I think I can save my friend a ton of money by fixing the issue and not just replacing it.

And its a 8.1 BBC.
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