Is there a priming procedure for raw water pump on PCM? also rudder shaft play

[strad]

351. I just changed the impeller (don't worry, I got the cover on in the same orientation it was in before). So the next step is what? I don't want to burn the impeller up or risk it not priming on my first outing!

And in case you're wondering, I haven't driven it before now b/c the po had a good prop strike with it. I did listen to it run before purchase and made sure it goes into gear, but the rest is a mystery to be discovered. Prop strike damage has been repaired/expensive parts on the bottom of the boat have been replaced.

On the rudder shaft, if I grab the rudder there is a slight amount of play between the rudder shaft and whatever it goes into inside the rudder box. Is that a bad thing, and if so, what do I do about it?

edit: it is an 84 powerslot. I dunno why, but sometimes my sig shows up on my posts and sometimes it doesn't! Sig says what boat I have.

[LYNRDSKYNRD]

Some folks like to squirt a small amount of dishwashing liquid inside the impeller housing to lubricate the impeller.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

[JimN]

Originally Posted by LYNRDSKYNRD

Some folks like to squirt a small amount of dishwashing liquid inside the impeller housing to lubricate the impeller.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

Water-based lubricants work, too. You know the kind.

[eurosysytem0]

When I remove impeller for the winter (5 months) I coat it in Vaseline (down all the vanes) then cover it in cling-film and then store in warm place (in the house). Then, when I reload for new season, I coat the inside of the pump housing with film of Vaseline. I have not changed the impeller for the last three seasons. It remains flexible, no nicks or cuts and the engine temperatures are what they should be. Over here (Uk) an impeller costs circa $70.

On the rudder post, on my old 88 powerslot the rudder shaft had O ring seals which when replaced and packed with grease eliminated play.

[east tx skier]

Originally Posted by JimN

Water-based lubricants work, too. You know the kind.

This is what I use. In fact, some of the old Johnson (giggle) impellers used to come with a little tube o' lube.

[east tx skier]

Originally Posted by eurosysytem0

When I remove impeller for the winter (5 months) I coat it in Vaseline (down all the vanes) then cover it in cling-film and then store in warm place (in the house). Then, when I reload for new season, I coat the inside of the pump housing with film of Vaseline. I have not changed the impeller for the last three seasons. It remains flexible, no nicks or cuts and the engine temperatures are what they should be. Over here (Uk) an impeller costs circa $70.

On the rudder post, on my old 88 powerslot the rudder shaft had O ring seals which when replaced and packed with grease eliminated play.

On the same level as my last post, does Vaseline degrade rubber or is that just applicable to latex?

/actually a serious question.

[JimN]

Originally Posted by east tx skier

This is what I use. In fact, some of the old Johnson (giggle) impellers used to come with a little tube o' lube.

As they should.

[JimN]

Originally Posted by east tx skier

On the same level as my last post, does Vaseline degrade rubber or is that just applicable to latex?

/actually a serious question.

Petroleum-based lubes can degrade rubber, depending on the compound. That's why auto suspension bushings should be lubed with silicone.

[eurosysytem0]

Sorry been away for a while.
Ive been using Vaseline on impellers for about 20 years. Various MC models. Degradation has never been a problem either in terms of first start of the season or long term durability. As I said I get at least three seasons from an impeller and I've just winterized here in UK and the impeller looks perfect.

[mikeg205]

Originally Posted by east tx skier

This is what I use. In fact, some of the old Johnson (giggle) impellers used to come with a little tube o' lube.

Has anyone one come up with a way to revitalize the old Johnson -- impeller?