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Old 10-16-2012, 01:05 AM
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Ski-me Ski-me is offline
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Next, I removed the oil filter and used JimN's suggestion of cutting off the top of a jug to catch the filter and oil. Awesome idea and worked like a charm!





I did install the taller, larger capacity oil filter. There is an edge that looked to be knocked in just a bit so the taller one may or may not fit. Mine was just fine.





I got 4 quarts of oil out after draining so I think I got most of it. The oil filter took at least 3/4 of a quart to fill. Valvoline Synthetic too!



Oh, and I didn't know....synthetic motor oil is Green!

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Old 10-16-2012, 01:05 AM
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Next, I changed both fuel filter. One by the engine and the other by the tank. I put a towel under it to catch any excess fuel that may pour out. I did first hit the scrader valve to relieve any fuel pressure before changing.







I then started the engine and let it cycle everything and warm the engine back up.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:06 AM
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I know there were questions regarding using RV anti-freeze, regular anti-freeze or just plain water. I elected to use RV stuff but drain it out afterwards. Rather be safe than sorry for my first run! I tried to take the raw water intake hose off just at the base but couldn't get it free so I elected to disconnect just after the heat exchanger (I think that's what is was) and then bent this into a bucket. I started with about 3 gallons and started the engine. Then I quickly squeezed in 3 more gallons and let everything suck into the cooling system.
One note, be sure that the engine is fully warm or the t-stat may not open yet and let the coolant into all of the areas. I didn't get mine all the way heated up so I don't think the anti-freeze made it into the block.







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Old 10-16-2012, 01:07 AM
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Now, finally, on to the draining of the block, etc.
First, I disconnected the hot water source for heater and shower hoses.





Then the cold water for shower.





And this hose:

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Old 10-16-2012, 01:08 AM
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The manifold hoses and plugs:









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Old 10-16-2012, 01:09 AM
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The upper hoses:







And then the impellar area:







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  #77  
Old 10-16-2012, 01:10 AM
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I didn't really know about these but I pulled them to be safe. Nothing really came out of them
.




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Old 10-16-2012, 01:11 AM
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Once things were drained, I hooked up the hoses again and pulled the kill switch....and then cranked the engine over for about 5 seconds to flush anything else out the system.



I hooked up some of the hoses and put the cover back on the impellar and then blew out the lines with an air compressor and also a shop vac for the raw water intake.







Shop Vac:



And then hosed everything down with some fresh water....the RV stuff was sticky and wanted to get that off of things.




I have not fogged in the spark plug areas yet but will do that in the next few days.
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Last edited by Ski-me; 10-16-2012 at 01:18 AM.
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  #79  
Old 10-16-2012, 01:11 AM
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My only questions.....did I miss anything? Do I remove this "thing" to drain the block further?

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  #80  
Old 10-16-2012, 07:50 AM
Legolamb Legolamb is offline
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That "thing" is your knock sensor, and yes you need to remove if you want to drain that side of the block. Once removed, you may want to poke around a bit with a small screw driver or piece of wire to make sure there isn't any sediment or rust blocking any more liquid from draining.

Nice pictures and details, thanks for taking the time to document your procedures.

Last edited by Legolamb; 10-16-2012 at 07:53 AM.
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