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  #41  
Old 10-05-2012, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jakethebt View Post
Yes, some or most of the PG seems to have some form or amount of alcohol in it. That IS the stuff used in holding tanks and is commonly referred to as RV anti-freeze. The fact that it has alcohol in it seems to be irrelevant as the reason for not recommending it seems to be with the PG itself, according to Sam at Indmar.

The auto stuff, or EG, is mainly green or sometimes red. It appears that there are no known corrosion issues with it, but as you stated JimN, it should be collected and recycled. I have heard that 5 gallons in equals about 15 out. That is a lot to figure out what to do with. Also there is concern that it will not be very easy to ensure that it is all out of the engine in the spring and you may end up with a few green streaks behind your boat. It is not only bad for the fish, it is bad to swim in and you could end up with a ticket.

One thing is for sure, there are a few choices out there. Just a matter of what you want to deal with...
WRT choices, there are only a few- using auto anti-freeze isn't one of them and if the Coast Guard/DNR sees someone with a big green or red plume behind the boat, it gets ugly, fast. The fines and other penalties makes using it a very stupid decision. It's not just fish- it's every animal that ingests it- organ failure starts soon after, usually followed by death if the concentration is sufficient.

As far as 3 in/15 out, why? If the antifreeze i s drained into the bilge and collected, it comes out to 3 in/3 out with wiping up the excess before running it on water.
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  #42  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:07 PM
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I suppose you could do it that way. I have heard that some attempt to collect it via buckets under the exhaust to rinse it out of the block with water. I agree, it does not seem easy, or green. Also, there is no where near where I live that will recycle it. I think I will stick with the check list method.
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Last edited by jakethebt; 12-10-2012 at 05:16 PM.
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  #43  
Old 10-05-2012, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jakethebt View Post
I suppose you could do it that way. I have heard that some attempt to collect it via buckets under the exhaust to rinse it out of the block with water. I agree, it does not see easy, or green. Also, there is no where near where I live that will recycle it. I think I will stick with the check list method.
I would try draining the engine into the bilge and let it drain out through the hull. Kind of a balancing act WRT the location and slope, but it can be done. As far as where to take it, I would call some of the fast-lube places that do cooling system flushes. I usually take old oil to the closest Valvoline place and they're fine with that. If I have to, I can go to the MKE county dump. They take old oil, brake fluid and coolant.

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  #44  
Old 10-07-2012, 09:56 AM
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What is the benefit, if any, to switch to a synthetic motor oil or transmission oil?

I've seen Royal Purple but most of it is all synthetic.

I'm concerned about putting this "premium" stuff in such an old boat motor (1994 LT1). Is it really worth it or just a waste of money?

Also, if I don't get all the tranny fluid out....is it OK to "mix" traditional with the synthetic?
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  #45  
Old 10-07-2012, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Ski-me View Post
What is the benefit, if any, to switch to a synthetic motor oil or transmission oil?

I've seen Royal Purple but most of it is all synthetic.

I'm concerned about putting this "premium" stuff in such an old boat motor (1994 LT1). Is it really worth it or just a waste of money?

Also, if I don't get all the tranny fluid out....is it OK to "mix" traditional with the synthetic?
IMO, synthetic is good if you're after longer drain intervals, lasts longer, doesn't break down as quickly.
I don't think, there are any other advantages.
Case in point, I ran my 1990GMC, 350 engine up to about 160k mi before I sold it. Changed the oil every 3k mi +/- with whatever the cheapest stuff on sale was. (I was in college, no extra money in the beer fund for syn oil.) Saw the truck a couple years later towing a big ole horse trailer. Guy I sold it to put a GN hitch in the bed and worked the 1/2 ton like a 1 ton. At that point it had about 230k mi, orig engine....and trans.
My new F150 work truck and the last one, both "require" 5W20 synthetic. Also have about a 10k mile reccomended oil change interval. My company still requires 3k mi oil changes and no syn oil. Turned in the last one at 90k mi and the engine was still fine, many of them running around close to 150k mi before getting sent to auction.
Again, I think routine maint is the key, not what you use to maintain it as long as it's of sufficient quality.
I use synthetic oils in my vehicles trans, t case, axles, but only because I don't want to crawl under them as often to change the oil. I use syn 2 stroke, top quality oil in my sleds but only because I have the oil injection tuned down to the minimum required to keep them running right. If I let them run fat on oil, I'd use cheaper stuff. Everything else including the boat (which gets short service intervals due to the amount of hrs a year I use it) gets dino oils.
Note this is only my opinion, but I was responsible for maintianing a fleet of vehicles/equipment for about 5 years. Landscaping business, mom and pop place, never saw things with engines get abused as bad as there and with regular cheap dino oil changes, I never saw an oil related failure, nor any premature failures. Plenty of wear and tear failures, things used well beyond their intended purpose or loading, swapped out a couple OLD engines, but reasonably priced oil works fine.
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  #46  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
IMO, synthetic is good if you're after longer drain intervals, lasts longer, doesn't break down as quickly.
I don't think, there are any other advantages.
Case in point, I ran my 1990GMC, 350 engine up to about 160k mi before I sold it. Changed the oil every 3k mi +/- with whatever the cheapest stuff on sale was. (I was in college, no extra money in the beer fund for syn oil.) Saw the truck a couple years later towing a big ole horse trailer. Guy I sold it to put a GN hitch in the bed and worked the 1/2 ton like a 1 ton. At that point it had about 230k mi, orig engine....and trans.
My new F150 work truck and the last one, both "require" 5W20 synthetic. Also have about a 10k mile reccomended oil change interval. My company still requires 3k mi oil changes and no syn oil. Turned in the last one at 90k mi and the engine was still fine, many of them running around close to 150k mi before getting sent to auction.
Again, I think routine maint is the key, not what you use to maintain it as long as it's of sufficient quality.
I use synthetic oils in my vehicles trans, t case, axles, but only because I don't want to crawl under them as often to change the oil. I use syn 2 stroke, top quality oil in my sleds but only because I have the oil injection tuned down to the minimum required to keep them running right. If I let them run fat on oil, I'd use cheaper stuff. Everything else including the boat (which gets short service intervals due to the amount of hrs a year I use it) gets dino oils.
Note this is only my opinion, but I was responsible for maintianing a fleet of vehicles/equipment for about 5 years. Landscaping business, mom and pop place, never saw things with engines get abused as bad as there and with regular cheap dino oil changes, I never saw an oil related failure, nor any premature failures. Plenty of wear and tear failures, things used well beyond their intended purpose or loading, swapped out a couple OLD engines, but reasonably priced oil works fine.
Good point Thrall but Royal Purple and Valvoline VR1-1 synth comes in cool colors. The one thing synth oil gives is better sheer strength just in case engine temps spikes. Synth base is good for the MCOCD soul.
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  #47  
Old 10-07-2012, 09:21 PM
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As for the oil, I am lucky to find 20W50 anywhere, let alone brand or type... No idea why it is so hard to find.
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  #48  
Old 10-07-2012, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakethebt View Post
As for the oil, I am lucky to find 20W50 anywhere, let alone brand or type... No idea why it is so hard to find.
most places don't carry on shelf...i.e. napa has it at warehouse.. I call day before or early morning or order on web early morning and pickup in the afternoon. Dino stuff good stuff..I jsut like new technology and synth oil IMO base stock less prone to oxidation due to manufacture process. I like the synth in tranny too..synth oils appear on available data to perform better stress and heat...just my .02... I hate oil...too much to read about and too many choices... lol...
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  #49  
Old 10-08-2012, 07:55 PM
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So what is the correct oil weight to run on a 1994 LTI with about 600 hours?

I want to run Mobile One so what should I buy?
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  #50  
Old 10-08-2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockman View Post
So what is the correct oil weight to run on a 1994 LTI with about 600 hours?

I want to run Mobile One so what should I buy?
Mobil 1 Racing 15w50 or Valvoline VR1 Synth 20w50 - more anti-wear in additive pack than non-racing oil..... I personally like synth because of base stock plus I add 12 oz of Hyperlube...jsut cuz of by MC OCD.
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