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  #11  
Old 10-03-2012, 09:28 AM
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Jake, well done. It's now, that time of year and have yet to winterize my LT1 myself....just keep bringing it to the dealer. I do have an appointment in a few weeks to winterize, new impellar and change tranny for $500 so quite a bit. After reading your info, it doesn't look too hard.

Appreciate you doing/modifying a good procedure list.....it will definitely help!

RV antifreeze be OK?
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  #12  
Old 10-03-2012, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski-me View Post
Jake, well done. It's now, that time of year and have yet to winterize my LT1 myself....just keep bringing it to the dealer. I do have an appointment in a few weeks to winterize, new impellar and change tranny for $500 so quite a bit. After reading your info, it doesn't look too hard.

Appreciate you doing/modifying a good procedure list.....it will definitely help!

RV antifreeze be OK?
What is included for $500?
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  #13  
Old 10-03-2012, 09:47 AM
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Thank you Jake for two excellent write-ups on LT1 winterization. I will be performing my first winterization soon, and specifics for the LT1 are very helpful. The supply list with part numbers is especially handy. Nice job.
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  #14  
Old 10-03-2012, 09:55 AM
Jason.H. Jason.H. is offline
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RV anitfreeze is not good with aluminum. I would just leave it dry.
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  #15  
Old 10-03-2012, 10:20 AM
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I didn't see anything on those lists about removing the hull plug(s), putting them in a plastic bag and attaching them to the steering wheel or throttle. They can be put in a cup holder, but that allows for them being moved and mis-placed. If the boat somehow gets wet and the plug(s) aren't out, bad things happen.

RV anti-freeze is bad for the heads. This was hammered into our heads at MC training every time I went. It may not happen after one time, but it's not worth risking, IMO.

If no anti-freeze is used, remove the hoses on the engine at their lowest points and turn them so any water in them can drain out. Crank the engine to clear the raw water pump or loosen the cover plate, to allow any water that's above it to drain out.

At some point, the bearings and brakes on the trailer need to be serviced- at least check them, annually if the boat is trailered frequently.
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  #16  
Old 10-03-2012, 10:25 AM
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All new RV anti-freeze has been reformulated to not corrode aluminum...at least that's what they claim on their websites.
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  #17  
Old 10-03-2012, 12:44 PM
redraider08 redraider08 is offline
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I've got an 2000 X-Star with the 310 hp engine, will all the part #'s be the same? Thanks!
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  #18  
Old 10-03-2012, 01:09 PM
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Jake,

Thanks for doing this...was going to start my own when winterizing our 190 in a few weeks but since you started this already...

I planned on running RV antifreeze thru the motor but if it is bad (new versions of anitfreeze included), then what is the best way to ensure I get all water out of the block? Hook up a small attachment to a shop vac once all water has drained out just to be sure or ???

A buddy of mine used to winterize his 275 hp but all he did was pull off all the hoses and and remove any plugs where water would be trapped and that was it. He never had a problem with the blcok freezing but his method never seemed full proof.



Mike-May be calling you over for a few beers when I winterize ours...
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  #19  
Old 10-03-2012, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockman View Post
Jake,

Thanks for doing this...was going to start my own when winterizing our 190 in a few weeks but since you started this already...

I planned on running RV antifreeze thru the motor but if it is bad (new versions of anitfreeze included), then what is the best way to ensure I get all water out of the block? Hook up a small attachment to a shop vac once all water has drained out just to be sure or ???

A buddy of mine used to winterize his 275 hp but all he did was pull off all the hoses and and remove any plugs where water would be trapped and that was it. He never had a problem with the blcok freezing but his method never seemed full proof.



Mike-May be calling you over for a few beers when I winterize ours...
Always open for a few beers - best way to drain is take out all hoses and drain plugs and take boat for a town on hilly roads... I do recommend spinning some antifreeze in water re-circulation pump...

Too many friends with boats have to replace water pumps in spring 'cuz bearing was weeping - All it takes is a little water in the right place - especially if the boat will be stored outside..
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  #20  
Old 10-03-2012, 01:41 PM
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Ski-me Ski-me is offline
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
What is included for $500?
Change engine oil, change tranny oil, change impellar and blow out engine/heater/shower lines. I think that's about it. I don't think they fog the engine either.....
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