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  #1  
Old 10-13-2015, 09:36 AM
jakubm1 jakubm1 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Boat: Correct Craft, Skier, 1974, Ford 302
Location: midwest
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Winterization / Dry Block

My 1974 Skier is my first ski type boat.

I usually winterize by first draining the engine of water and then running about 8 gallons of antifreeze in a loop until the t-stat opens up.

This is my first raw water cooled inboard. Any potential issues with starting up the motor with a dry engine block?

My initial thought was no, since when it starts it appears that the raw water (antifreeze) will fill the block first.

Am I correct or am I missing something?

Thanks

Mark
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  #2  
Old 10-13-2015, 11:38 AM
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Keith2230 Keith2230 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Boat: 2006 X-30 MCX
Location: Kansas City
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Having the block dry isn't an issue when you start it. You just don't want to run the impeller dry as that's really hard on it and you can trash it easily. The typical raw water procedure is to use a fake lake or a large bucket with the raw water intake tub stuck in it with the garden hose turned on. Flush with clean water and get the engine up to temp to open the thermostat. Drain the block. Some stop here. Then suck your 8 gallons of RV antifreeze through it. Some will drain again. Others just leave it in.
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Old 10-13-2015, 02:41 PM
jakubm1 jakubm1 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Boat: Correct Craft, Skier, 1974, Ford 302
Location: midwest
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Thanks. On my 30 foot I/O I was sure that a dry block was not an issue. On that boat I drain the block. Then I recirculate about 8 - 10 gallons of antifreeze (marine) using a big tub and a submersible pump. Once the thermostst opens up, I am pretty much done.
I drain to get the large volume of water out. This allows me to reclaim the anti freeze and use it next year. I test it with a spectrometer. If I need to bring up the freeze point some, I simply add some -100 to the mix.

Thanks. I will be doing this next week some time and then putting the boat away.
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