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  #31  
Old 12-30-2012, 11:09 PM
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I will as soon as I make it around to that side.

Anyone have any thoughts on if I should pull the windshield and wet sand the whole top or just work around it?
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  #32  
Old 12-30-2012, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by College Kid View Post
I will as soon as I make it around to that side.

Anyone have any thoughts on if I should pull the windshield and wet sand the whole top or just work around it?
I just worked around mine. No need to wetsand mine though. I just sanded 400 grit and got a good ole can of Krylon. The frame is aluminum and is pretty soft. Looks great now. It will look even better when I tint the glass. BTW, that is the same color combo on my boat. Did the PO change the interior to match the paint job or does it still match the gel coat?

Last edited by CC2MC; 12-30-2012 at 11:39 PM.
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  #33  
Old 12-30-2012, 11:45 PM
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No they re did the interior, no more magenta on the interior.
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  #34  
Old 12-31-2012, 12:51 AM
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You are about to see why I recommended a wrap.

Starting with 220grit is very very course.

I sanded a black X9 and made it showroom quality. I had thousands of hours before that boat was 100% spotless perfect without swirl marks from the sand paper. We started at 800 grit. A small area required 600 but for the most part we did 95% of the boat with 800 grit. Then moved to sanding the entire boat again with 1000 grit, then again with 1200, followed by 1500. By hand.......the boat is a good friend of mine and we started in November and sanded 3-4 days a week (average 3) until May.


Once you get the 220 done you will need to re-sand with wet sanding method starting at 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, high speed compound ultra fine, express it 2 polisher high speed and then wax.

If you don't believe me then just spray black spray paint over the area sanded and then wipe off with acetone. I guarantee that you will see the sand marks after every grit change until you get to 1500 grit. Once you get 1500 you can spray the black on and acetone will get it all off leaving no sand marks. This is when you know the boat is perfectly smooth.

Doing it this way will make it look brand new. My concern is you may sand through to the next color. Meaning there is blue, grey, pink, white, under that top layer of white.

The stripper evaporates so there is no need to worry about it eating your gel. Wipe it on strip it and wipe it off. Washing it after rubbing it really doesn't require tons of water. I would be using chemicals to Strip the paint and then buff. Sanding will wear you out.

Find a stopping point for the sanding and start stripping. The larger the area you cover with 220 the more wet sanding you will be doing to remove the 220 grit marks.

I wet sanded by hand. If you have a pneumatic DA sander and lots of paper then wet sand away. Otherwise get ready for lots of elbow grease wet sanding.


Here is my point..........sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, and more sand, followed by hours more like days of compounding, then polishing............may be worth a 3k wrap.

Wraps are thick so the swirl marks don't have to be perfect. Remove the windshield with someone to lend a hand. Remove a side glass, then center, then other side. Ship that sucker off for a wrap and call it a day.

I promise, if you want that boat "showroom" quality then you will have $500+ in supplies, sand paper, compound, cutter, polish, etc and seriously 1000's of hours.

I love the color scheme as I am partial to it myself. I just would put a price on my time.

Now if you don't care about swirl marks or dull gel because you are in a hurry for summer (you will you will see everywhere that you sanded once that boat is floating) then sand away. Maybe your MCOCD is not as bad as mine. Who knows.

Just trying to shoot straight with you. Sanding makes the project extremely drawn out.
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Last edited by Kyle; 12-31-2012 at 01:07 AM.
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  #35  
Old 12-31-2012, 09:56 AM
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Thanks Kyle,

I realize that this is going to be a HUGE job, I was already for the wet sanding from 400 through 1500 on the hull to clean up all the marks, and I figured that in doing the entire hull a little more on the bow isn't going to kill me. Don't take my comment above about muscle the wrong way, I just felt that removing the paint wasn't worth the 10-15 hours sanding when I knew I was going to have to re sand the entire thing many times over.

I am also not sure if this boat will ever get to "showroom" condition, as the PO has hacked the dash up, and I haven't come up with a good plan to replace it. As well as the trouble spot by the windshield and the gouge on the hull, there will be a need to send it to a shop if I plan on matching up the Gel Coat in those spots if I plan to have a showroom boat.

Due to my need to send it out at some point I figure that I do do any damage that I will have those spots fixed at the same time.

The idea with this boat is to have a fun with my young family, MCOCD suffers due to this as I know that as soon as I have it just right, my son will end up climbing over the gunnel with sand on his feet and I'll be back to the start!!!!!

My goal is to get rid of the brutal paint job, confirm that there is no structural damage around the windshield, and then decide on the where to go from there.
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  #36  
Old 12-31-2012, 10:43 AM
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I wet sanded by hand. If you have a pneumatic DA sander and lots of paper then wet sand away. Otherwise get ready for lots of elbow grease wet sanding.
Speaking from my own personal experience with the fenders Kyle was helping me with, I can tell you he is 1000% correct - I had my fenders bondo'd, sanded, painted and clear coated at a friends body shop, and it was worth every penny I paid to not sand for 100s of hours.
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  #37  
Old 12-31-2012, 03:43 PM
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.........
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If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....

Last edited by Kyle; 12-31-2012 at 03:46 PM.
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  #38  
Old 12-31-2012, 03:45 PM
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College


Since water and electricity don't mix try a pheumatic DA sander. It will speed your time up drastically from hand sanding it.

The blue is no longer made by mc so the gouge on the side will need to be hand mixed.

Is there a way to fix your gel by windshield. Pics please

And I would only remove the windshield if you have a very very very safe place to put it. It's not made any more. But I would remove for the project.


As far as MCOCD

Well you are right. Make it perfect just for another scratch. I understand completely. It's just how bad your disorder is I guess

How old is your son? Put him to work and make it a father-son project. Then his time sanding will give him appreciation before adding more scratches.


It will come around. Just keep after it. Looking better already
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
"Heavy" beer is for wine drinkers that are too embarrassed to drink wine in front of their buddies. "Light" beer is a drinkin' man's beer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....

Last edited by Kyle; 12-31-2012 at 03:52 PM.
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  #39  
Old 12-31-2012, 04:10 PM
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Should be around the that windshield section later today. I'll post up pics then.

Unfortunately my son is only 5 so he doesn't last long with the heavy lifting, that said, he is a champ for coming and check on me when I am in the -15C garage and offering to bring me beer.

He's also a big fan of sitting in the drivers seat and pretending to drive for me, while I do work on the boat.

Last edited by College Kid; 12-31-2012 at 11:26 PM.
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  #40  
Old 12-31-2012, 07:35 PM
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Another couple hours into this job.

Found a few more spots that will need further attention: First picture you can see a mark in the middle of the bow that was filled with something blue, I think gel coat mix. Second picture is a fill mark just at the start of the windshield, it is filled with a brown filler not sure what this is. Third photo is further back on the starboard side at the very end of the windshield. Final photos are the issues on the port side.

What are your thoughts?

Just a quick note: I am very impressed with my progress so far, please try and keep your comments positive as i am way too far into this to turn back now!!!!

I do need some constructive critique to figure out what to do with these trouble areas, and what the PO used for filler?
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Last edited by mikeg205; 12-31-2012 at 08:35 PM. Reason: Rotated images
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