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Old 08-14-2012, 09:23 PM
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I need a new oil pressure gauge

I have a 2001 19Skier with Medallion gauges. The oil pressure gauge is bad (needle stuck to max pressure). Great Lakes Skipper has the entire set for $500+ which I really don't want to spend for just the oil pressure gauge. From what I can tell, these gauges are no longer made. Can anyone help with finding just the oil pressure gauge? Jim and Chuck at BAWS, maybe? Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-15-2012, 03:30 AM
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those are so sick
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  #3  
Old 08-15-2012, 05:13 AM
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Just had to replace all my medallion gauges on my 2000 prostar (exactly the same as these), the lenses were UV affected and starting to deteriorate. Have a good look at yours, if it has seen a bit of sun you may be better off to buy the lot and put away for later. Either that or buy a set off of ebay take out your oil gauge and put them back on. Only if you can't get one from your dealer of course!

Last edited by petermegan; 08-15-2012 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:53 AM
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Are you sure it's the gauge itself?

I just noticed this same behavior on my Yukon....pressure gauge showing maxed out. I had to go up to Idaho in the next day or so, so I called my Chevy dealer and asked what's up? He said that it is common and it was most likely the pressure "sensor", not the gauge itself.

Later on in that trip, my pressure went to zero at freeway speed! A little wierd to see, for sure, but knowing it was probably a bad sensor gave me peace of mind. Sure enough, 5 minutes later, my gauge was pegged full again.

I looked the part up and an AC Delco sensor was like $97. So you may check that before getting all new gauges.

Now, if you just want new gauges...great. Just keep in mind you MAY have to change that sensor too if it still doesn't work.
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Last edited by Ski-me; 08-15-2012 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski-me View Post
Are you sure it's the gauge itself?

I just noticed this same behavior on my Yukon....pressure gauge showing maxed out. I had to go up to Idaho in the next day or so, so I called my Chevy dealer and asked what's up? He said that it is common and it was most likely the pressure "sensor", not the gauge itself.

Later on in that trip, my pressure went to zero at freeway speed! A little wierd to see, for sure, but knowing it was probably a bad sensor gave me peace of mind. Sure enough, 5 minutes later, my gauge was pegged full again.

I looked the part up and an AC Delco sensor was like $97. So you may check that before getting all new gauges.

Now, if you just want new gauges...great. Just keep in mind you MAY have to change that sensor too if it still doesn't work.
I'm 90% sure it's the gauge. All other gauges work fine so I don't think it's the black box. The gauge stays pegged regardless of key position, and I also removed the wire from the pressure sender and with the wire grounded to the engine block the gauge stayed pegged. Not sure what else to do to troubleshoot?
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petermegan View Post
Just had to replace all my medallion gauges on my 2000 prostar (exactly the same as these), the lenses were UV affected and starting to deteriorate. Have a good look at yours, if it has seen a bit of sun you may be better off to buy the lot and put away for later. Either that or buy a set off of ebay take out your oil gauge and put them back on. Only if you can't get one from your dealer of course!
Peter, where did you get your replacements?
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:58 PM
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MASTERCRA...ht_1019wt_1168

I bought a set like this off of ebay. These are a good option for your smaller gauges, but I learnt that the tacho is for the later model and the lcd has extra functions in it that aren't supported by my mmdc or brainbox. Anybody want one cheap? I then found a speedo brand new for $1 on ebay the next week and ordered the proper tacho through my dealer. Wish I had just bought a set like you found, would have been easier. The one above should get you out of trouble though. Having the clock is a bonus in the kit you found though. How are your lenses on all your gauges, showing any signs of deteriation yet?

Last edited by petermegan; 08-15-2012 at 07:01 PM.
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  #8  
Old 08-16-2012, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petermegan View Post
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MASTERCRA...ht_1019wt_1168

I bought a set like this off of ebay. These are a good option for your smaller gauges, but I learnt that the tacho is for the later model and the lcd has extra functions in it that aren't supported by my mmdc or brainbox. Anybody want one cheap? I then found a speedo brand new for $1 on ebay the next week and ordered the proper tacho through my dealer. Wish I had just bought a set like you found, would have been easier. The one above should get you out of trouble though. Having the clock is a bonus in the kit you found though. How are your lenses on all your gauges, showing any signs of deteriation yet?

Thanks. I might go with this smaller set if I can't find just one. Did you have any trouble swapping the black bezels?
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:57 AM
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+1 for testing before replacing.

I found this at http://www.olypen.com/craigh/pressure.htm using google
For vehicles with an oil pressure gauge, the sending unit (located next to the oil filter) is essentially a variable path to ground for the gauge. When the is engine off, the sender is shorted to ground, and the gauge reads "0" psi (or close), as the oil pressure increases, the sender offers resistance to ground, providing a mid scale readings on the gauge. If the wire is removed altogether, the gauge will read off the scale to the high side (3:00 position) all the time. This is a quick and simple test you can perform to help isolate the problem. With the key ON - engine OFF, pull the wire off the sending unit. The gauge should read full scale. Now short the wire to ground (this will not harm anything), and it should read "0". If this is correct, then your gauge, and the wiring is good, and your trouble is likely to be the sending unit. If this test has little or no effect on the gauge, then your problem is in the wiring or the gauge itself.
This was exactly the same procedure I have in a SELOC manual for my old I/O that I had. The sender can be tested as well with multi-meter.

Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic and I don't know your specific boat. Maybe someone can come along and say this is correct for your engine/boat.

If it were me, I'd test before I kick the bucks just to find out the guage was OK to begin with.
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Old 08-16-2012, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneBoatN View Post
+1 for testing before replacing.

I found this at http://www.olypen.com/craigh/pressure.htm using google
For vehicles with an oil pressure gauge, the sending unit (located next to the oil filter) is essentially a variable path to ground for the gauge. When the is engine off, the sender is shorted to ground, and the gauge reads "0" psi (or close), as the oil pressure increases, the sender offers resistance to ground, providing a mid scale readings on the gauge. If the wire is removed altogether, the gauge will read off the scale to the high side (3:00 position) all the time. This is a quick and simple test you can perform to help isolate the problem. With the key ON - engine OFF, pull the wire off the sending unit. The gauge should read full scale. Now short the wire to ground (this will not harm anything), and it should read "0". If this is correct, then your gauge, and the wiring is good, and your trouble is likely to be the sending unit. If this test has little or no effect on the gauge, then your problem is in the wiring or the gauge itself.
This was exactly the same procedure I have in a SELOC manual for my old I/O that I had. The sender can be tested as well with multi-meter.

Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic and I don't know your specific boat. Maybe someone can come along and say this is correct for your engine/boat.

If it were me, I'd test before I kick the bucks just to find out the guage was OK to begin with.
Virtually all temp, pressure and fuel gauges are tested this way.
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