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  #1  
Old 07-09-2012, 12:02 PM
cpr05xtr cpr05xtr is offline
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sad sad day...

Had to bring mt 05 star back into town to get worked on. Got a check eng and cant find the problem. Im thinking it is voltage related but cant work it through. Worst part is service department is 2 - 2.5 weeks out. there goes my july.
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:04 PM
02ProstarSammyD 02ProstarSammyD is offline
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I'd find another mech that can atleast check it before then. No need in blowing july for something simple
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:08 PM
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willyt willyt is offline
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Just giving up? I haven't seen any threads about it, I'm sure someone on the forum can figure out what's going on without blowing your whole month.
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:48 PM
cpr05xtr cpr05xtr is offline
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Not really giving up per say i just got to the end of my knowledge. I noticed my volt gauge on the dash was showing around 12.5 to 13v. I tracked it down to my battery isolator was taking 14v from the alternator and only putting 12.73 volts out. So i bypassed that straight to one battery and that bumped it up to the 14v on my dash but i noticed when at idle if i turned on anything else electrical it would instantly drop back down to 13 volts. SO. I went through cleaned every connection and tightened every bolt with still no results. I pulled the alternator and took it to town to have it rebuilt thinking it was the problem and when they put it on the tester in front of me it tested good three times in a row. So that makes me think it is some other underlying problem. I have a call into a couple of places in colorado I may just make the 4 hour drive one of these evenings if they can get it in any quicker. Oh and the batterys are brand new and tested good also.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:56 PM
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willyt willyt is offline
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That doesn't sound out of the norm to me... You should be a little above 13 at idle (granted, depends on what your running at the time) and 14 when the engine is above 1k-1.5k RPMs. I'm not sure that's the source of your check engine light.

The battery isolator is weird though
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  #6  
Old 07-09-2012, 04:16 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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^^+1 - Does the gauge kick up when you give it some throttle?
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...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:42 PM
cpr05xtr cpr05xtr is offline
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no even at when we are at around 2500-3000 rpm it drops when you turn something on.
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:10 PM
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willyt willyt is offline
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that sounds like your voltage regulator?
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:21 PM
cpr05xtr cpr05xtr is offline
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ya welcome to my world i just could not pin it. The sad thing is the isolator had already been replaced rite before i bought the thing still had the $99.99 price tag on it.
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  #10  
Old 07-12-2012, 08:06 AM
LiquidForce LiquidForce is offline
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From my point of view it looks like one of the batteries is shot. The battery isolator ensures the separation of the two batteries. If it is a simple diode then you will have a voltage drop between the in- and output of usually about 1V which about matches your measurements. There are slightly more expensive solutions on the market like the "Sterling Power ProSplit R" I'm using with zero voltage drop.

Now when you bypassed that isolator your two batteries balanced, meaning the weaker battery drained the better one until they were even. That is why I think one of your batteries is causing the issue. The good one has a rough life supplying the weak one and all the other drain you put on it. Try measuring the voltage on both batteries when putting load on them. If one of them drops significantly you know where the problem is. Measuring the batteries with no load has no point, a close to dead battery will be happy to show you 12 to 13 volts in idle.

Edit: Forgot to mention: Measure the batteries independently from eachother. Measured with your bypass will give the same readings for both batteries since they are connected.

Last edited by LiquidForce; 07-12-2012 at 11:09 AM.
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