1991 Prostar starting question help please!

[SkiDaddy]

This problem sounds so repeatable that I'm not convinced it is an electrical problem. Many times, when chasing electrical gremlins, the situation is difficult because the problem isn't so consistent. Yours seems pretty consistent with needing a period of time before a restart is possible. So that seems like to me either you need that period of time for either, something electrical to cool off (coil maybe?) or fuel to evaporate.

Since you haven't said that the boat dies while running, I'd eliminate the coil. So what could be happening that doesn't cause the boat to die while running, but prevents the engine from starting after a shutdown?

Just be a little careful of throwing parts and money into an electrical problem not fully defined.

Fuel dripping into the intake makes a lot of sense to me. Did you ever check that?

But as always, my $0.02 only..........

Best of luck to you!!!!!

[JimN]

Originally Posted by Appling77

well long story short is i spent all day out there messing with it. I deffinilty have a voltage drop when i turn the key over. i put the meter on the pos on the batt pin and the neg on the ignition pin behind the key ignition. i shows 12v untill i turn it over then it drops to .14 volts.
I tested the coill by placing the neg probe on the neg post on the batt and the pos on the pos on the coil. it showed 9.5 then when i turned the key it dropped into the 4's. so im ordering a starter, coil, key ignition, fuel pump and buy a new batt.

First thing to do is take the starter in to have it tested. If the shop does auto electric rebuilding (which I would suggest), have it rebuilt to marine spec. That way, you don't need to worry about whether the starter is the right one.

Take the battery with you- the voltage dropping to almost nothing looks like it's toast and could be the whole problem- I have seen a couple of batteries that had the + terminal come out completely when I tried to take the cable off, yet the dome light came on that morning and it started the day before.

[jay]

Wow - that is a surprise to me, but that isn't saying much...

Sounds like you are more than capable and on your way to nailing down the issue. Hopefully you don't have to unnecessarily replace too many components. A new battery and terminals are never a bad idea...

[jay]

Originally Posted by JimN

...Take the battery with you- the voltage dropping to almost nothing looks like it's toast and could be the whole problem- I have seen a couple of batteries that had the + terminal come out completely when I tried to take the cable off, yet the dome light came on that morning and it started the day before.

Very true...I removed my battery for the winter rest in late October last year in working order and with clean terminals on the boat side coated in light oil for corrosion inhibition.

Come mid April this year, I found both of those terminals completely corroded and they fell apart trying to remove the bolts for installation. 2 new HD semi truck terminals by Deka cost about $5 and work like a champ.

[JimN]

Originally Posted by jay

Very true...I removed my battery for the winter rest in late October last year in working order and with clean terminals on the boat side coated in light oil for corrosion inhibition.

Come mid April this year, I found both of those terminals completely corroded and they fell apart trying to remove the bolts for installation. 2 new HD semi truck terminals by Deka cost about $5 and work like a champ.

In my case, it was a 2-1/2 year old side-terminal battery in my Chevy pickup. I was checking the cable to see if it was loose and when I tried to turn the cable, the cable AND the battery insert came right out.

[Appling77]

Well after talking to the guys at skidim yesterday morning I ordered a coil, key ignition, and a breaker less ignition kit. I received the parts this morning! I'm working today but I'm going to go work on it first thing in the morning. I'm probably going to add a new batt and cables just to be safe. If this doesn't work I'll pull the starter and have it tested. Then after that I'll just have to wait three weeks for a pro to come look at it. I'm hoping this works my family is really on my *** about getting the boat running for the 4th.

[Lumbergh]

[Philscbx]

Wow, talk about pressure stabbing at to fix an unknown.

On the Starter - I see it was stated it was rebuilt last yr.
Simple cleaning / lube - lets hope its one less item.
Any chance the starter was under water? Too bad the distance is factor, I'd join in.

Cranking - "It turns over but it seems that it's not turning over fast enough to fire.
I tested the batt it was 12.xxx volts."
"with the solenoid and it showed 12 then when i went to crank it it drop to 8v" -
This is not uncommon - I'd rather see drop to 10v. Possible Battery issue right here.

"I hooked up the new batt it didn't run the first time the second time it kicked off and ran.
I turned it off and then it would not restart.
It seems like 30 to 40 mins it will restart.
The volt meter on the dash shows 10v."
Not quite sure at what state this was at - running or just the key on- showing 10v.

The battery showing 12 volts is deceiving - when problems exist.
It may have a bad cell or two _ Or be in low state of charge.
The chargers I use show both voltage & percentage of charge -
by Schumacher SC-6500A, from 2 - 65 amps model.

*** Relay's - main relay's before the starter? Typically on Ford Starter systems.
Low voltage / high amp (600) likes to wreck havoc with relay's over heating the internal contact to weld mode - damages it - then difficult making repeated contact difficult.
The Starter's solenoid / relay could be in this state.

With the Distributor cap off - rotor out of the way - run some 400 - 600 wet or dry paper between the points contacts in case there is insulating corrosion present.
I have cured this before when all other cures failed by others to get them going.
Simply let the tension of the points squeeze on the sandpaper pulling paper back & forth.
Fold a piece 1/4" wide x 2" long.
Do not use a file - the points contact will not conform.

High Voltage Tracking - in the underside of distributor cap - Inspect this closely.
From coil wire center point out to perimeter.
Usually this will cause misfire - hard cranking possible from altering the timing to severe advance.

In very rare cases - I've only had one bad condenser out of 100's.
They are easy to test on the bench w/meter -
simply switch the meter leads back & forth on condenser will make the meter show single pulse forward or backward.
The Meter in Ohm mode uses it's internal battery to charge the condenser forward or reverse.

CARB - It seems like 30 to 40 mins it will restart.
Internal leaking/flooding - dripping in excess fuel when engine off might be an issue.
It was mentioned spraying in WD with no response - it may have already been slightly flooded.
Waiting - then starting later seems to fit here.
"Pull the flame arrestor and look to see if the carb is dripping gas - as jay & JimN Said."
Could pull a random spark plug to verify.

This is True -
"throwing parts and money into an electrical problem not fully defined" - As SkiDaddy said.
Hopefully it's not too hot to work on.

[mikeg205]

Originally Posted by Lumbergh

^^++1

[Brandit]

Just been following this and it all sounds interesting. So I will put in my 2 cents which may have no bearing on this

I have had the same issues you have been dealing with but with a car. I can't tell you how many things I replaced before I found out that it was just my positive battery cable. Some battery cables have a fuseable link. When the cable is cold it will start. When it heats up and the copper expands the fuseable link doesnt allow enough juice to flow therefore not allowing vehicle or boat to start.

I bought a new cable and I haven't hade a problem since.

Good luck.