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Old 06-23-2012, 11:17 PM
acguy714 acguy714 is offline
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Amp Wiring Help...

I have a 91 Maristar and this is what I m trying to get my final product to be. I have (2) tower speakers and (4) cabin speakers that I want to run off a 4 channel amp. My problem is sometimes when on the lake I want to turn off the (4) speakers and just have the tower speakers playing. I do this when wakeboarding, some people might be talking but the tower is enough for the rider to hear.
I have two ACC switches that are on used on my panel but I dont think I can use those as they are 12v switches. Anyone have any ideas that make this work?

I also have another mono amp for my sub but thats not an issue. I can turn that on and off as I want with a switch my problem I cant figure out is how to sepertate speakers on the same amp.
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:01 AM
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I have two ideas,

get an amp with bass knobs or get another amp and run the 12v on/off to a rocker switch on the dash. maybe that would help.
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by acguy714 View Post
I have a 91 Maristar and this is what I m trying to get my final product to be. I have (2) tower speakers and (4) cabin speakers that I want to run off a 4 channel amp. My problem is sometimes when on the lake I want to turn off the (4) speakers and just have the tower speakers playing. I do this when wakeboarding, some people might be talking but the tower is enough for the rider to hear.
I have two ACC switches that are on used on my panel but I dont think I can use those as they are 12v switches. Anyone have any ideas that make this work?

I also have another mono amp for my sub but thats not an issue. I can turn that on and off as I want with a switch my problem I cant figure out is how to seperate speakers on the same amp.
You can use those switches to make/break contact on the amp's blue remote lead. It's a very low current application and the switches can handle it with no problem.

If you ever need to switch high current 12VDC, you can send 12V form a switch if this type to a Bosch relay (you can get this at any auto parts store and it doesn't really need to be 'Bosch branded, but that's kind of what they're called, generically. Potter & Brumfeld is another major brand). The diagram is on the side of the cover but it's very easy and only requires a few female quick disconnect terminals, or you can buy a socket and use butt splices.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=330-073
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:13 PM
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Here's an option for low cost and ease of wiring. Wire the four in boat speakers to two Chanel's or the front two Chanel's. Wire the tower speakers to the rear two Chanels. This will give you more power to the towers for a little more carry. When you want to switch the boat speakers off just use your fade and fade all the way to the rear.
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Old 06-24-2012, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by AZX9 View Post
Here's an option for low cost and ease of wiring. Wire the four in boat speakers to two Chanel's or the front two Chanel's. Wire the tower speakers to the rear two Chanels. This will give you more power to the towers for a little more carry. When you want to switch the boat speakers off just use your fade and fade all the way to the rear.
If the amplifier(s) will handle the load of two speakers in parallel. If not, the amp will fail prematurely and distortion will be high, resulting in damage to the speakers.
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:03 PM
acguy714 acguy714 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZX9 View Post
Here's an option for low cost and ease of wiring. Wire the four in boat speakers to two Chanel's or the front two Chanel's. Wire the tower speakers to the rear two Chanels. This will give you more power to the towers for a little more carry. When you want to switch the boat speakers off just use your fade and fade all the way to the rear.
I like this idea, the only problem is I want a switch to do the above. Great idea through but running throught the head units fade is time consuming with todays fancy radios.
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:10 PM
acguy714 acguy714 is offline
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
You can use those switches to make/break contact on the amp's blue remote lead. It's a very low current application and the switches can handle it with no problem.

If you ever need to switch high current 12VDC, you can send 12V form a switch if this type to a Bosch relay (you can get this at any auto parts store and it doesn't really need to be 'Bosch branded, but that's kind of what they're called, generically. Potter & Brumfeld is another major brand). The diagram is on the side of the cover but it's very easy and only requires a few female quick disconnect terminals, or you can buy a socket and use butt splices.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=330-073
Jim, I like this idea of breaking the remote wire on my 12v switches that I have. One switch can run each amp. The problem here is I have one amp for my subs, so that gets one switch. The next switch is for the (4) channel amp for all the speakers. If I run my second switch to my 4 channel amp it will shut down all (6) speakers (cabin and tower, no bueno)

Here s another question. Can I break speaker wires on a non 12 v toggle switch or does running speaker wires through a switch increase ohms? You know I was thinking of say breaking the -wire on each speaker can and run through a toggle switch. Would that work?
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by acguy714 View Post
Jim, I like this idea of breaking the remote wire on my 12v switches that I have. One switch can run each amp. The problem here is I have one amp for my subs, so that gets one switch. The next switch is for the (4) channel amp for all the speakers. If I run my second switch to my 4 channel amp it will shut down all (6) speakers (cabin and tower, no bueno)

Here s another question. Can I break speaker wires on a non 12 v toggle switch or does running speaker wires through a switch increase ohms? You know I was thinking of say breaking the -wire on each speaker can and run through a toggle switch. Would that work?
How is the fader set up on the head unit? If you have two speakers on one pair of channels and four on the other, you would need to add a speaker level fader to one pair to be able to drop their level without shutting them off.

I would use a relay if you want to shut off one pair or speakers that are connected to an amp along with another pair on the same channels. Radio Shack has 4 pole, double throw relays for less than $15 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...59#tabsetBasic) and I used those when I needed to connect two head units to the same speakers (think under-dash CD player with an in-dash AM/FM/Cassette head unit when the car owner didn't want to give up their cassettes). You would wire the dash switch with 12VDC on one terminal, the output to the relay's coil + and the relay coil's - terminal connects to ground. One set of 4 terminals on the relay is normally connected to another set and the last set is only connected when the relay is latched. You can wire it so that pair of speakers is normally on, or so you would need to flip the switch for them to become active- it's your choice.

The amp may not like having the load change drastically while it's on, so you might want to make sure to use a switch like what's used for a bilge pump that has On/Off/Auto positions. On can be four speakers, off shuts off the remote wire to the amp during switching and Auto could be two speakers. You would want wire the remote lead and relay parallel with a blocking diode on the speaker relay to keep it from latching when you turn the amp on for two speaker operation. A diode like this is usually about $1.50 for two if you get them at Radio Shack. A 1N4007 would be more than adequate for the current needed. Use heat shrink to cover the exposed wires and the diode, or cut them short enough that they won't be at risk of a short-circuit (I would use heat shrink).

Last edited by JimN; 06-24-2012 at 02:57 PM.
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  #9  
Old 07-07-2012, 06:01 PM
MLA MLA is online now
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The ideal solution is something like Kicker's ZXM-RLC Dual Zone Controller. It will give you two independent volume controls right at the helm. Zone-1 will control the volume to the half of the amp powering the 4 in-boats and zone-2 will control the towers powered by the 2nd half of the amp.

Another option would be a simple line level control POT like PAC's LC-1. A pair of these and a couple of long RCA cable sets.

Most 4 chnl amps are 2 Ohm stable, so you should not have a problem powering six 4 ohm speakers off of it. Port side in-boats wired in parallel (+ to +/- to -) on chnl 1, starboard in-boats wired same on chnl 2. Towers wired to chnls 3 and 4. If the in-boats have a lower nominal impedance then 4 ohm, then wire them in series. (chnl-1 + to speaker 1 +, speaker-1 - to speaker-2 +, speaker-2 - to amps chnl-1 -).
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