Repacking Bearings

[ctjahn]

Originally Posted by Miss Rita

Re cleaning bearings: I recently bought a set of new Timken bearings under duress for almost $30. Once they were installed I bought another set at Autozone, $11. It begs the question of whether it's just better to buy another set of $11 bearings each time, or clean the $30 bearing set. Considering the time and mess involved with cleaning bearings, I'd be inclined to get a fresh set each time.

Any mechanic-types here have an opinion on buying bearings made in China v the Timkens?

I am trying the cheap China bearings (AND trying Green Grease; and bearing buddies on new hubs, bearings, seals, etc installed this winter for the 78 S&S while carrying a spare set: Axle, Hub, Bearings, Races, etc = LINK: http://www.greengrease.net/)... Made it on the first four hour tow with no issues........................yet) - Synthetic.

Historically I used the blue marine stuff for Boat trailers and Lucas for the racecar trailers. I agree with the PROPER procedure noted above but I just re-pack em with grease pushing the old stuff out unless I am changing compounds/brands/etc - Lazy? I guess but it has worked for racecars and trailers for 15-20 years....(KNOCK ON WOOD) BUT I should note your mileage may vary and/or I replace bearings at the first sign of necessity when doing routine maint, and I dont condone what I do; AND if in doubt go with Timken; they have never done me wrong...

Best of luck
cj

[IdahoSnake]

Thanks for the info. Going to give it a go tonight. Will post results.

[mwg]

Originally Posted by rjracin240

Couple things to add to PHILSCB post. Dont use compressed air to spin the bearings, sounds cool but dont do it!!!! Can cause the bearings to fail, if you use compressed air to blow the solvent out insure you hold the bearing cage to prevent it from spinning.

Found that out the hard way in high school.. I got a scar almost all the around my pinky finger to show for it... and I have to buy a new bearing.

[Philscbx]

Originally Posted by mwg

Found that out the hard way in high school.. I got a scar almost all the around my pinky finger to show for it... and I have to buy a new bearing.

Very Possible - we used to take good shape ball bearings when kids at the shop - and with 160psi, you can get ball bearings up to maybe 200,000 rpm - set them down - and non stop burn out of sparks.
An open cage roller bearing is dangerous where it's now a roll of bullets ready to escape.

[Jerseydave]

Just to add another twist......I have used the EZ squeeze bearing packer for years (30+) and it is the best $20 you can spend if you work on wheel bearings.

http://atoztool.com/270.html

Makes quick, clean work of packing bearings. Don't expect to just push down on it with your hand however, you usually have to stand on it because the grease is so thick.

Also, on my Loadrite trailer from a few years back it came with bearings made in China.
All of those bearing showed excess wear and pitting after the first year of use. I'll stick with Timkens.

[Philscbx]

Originally Posted by Jerseydave

I have used the EZ squeeze bearing packer for years (30+) and it is the best $20 you can spend if you work on wheel bearings.
http://atoztool.com/270.html
Makes quick, clean work of packing bearings.

Bearing packers really does make the chore easier.
Vs a wad of grease in the palm, forcing little by little into the bearing.

[IdahoSnake]

Mission complete. Hardest part was finding the correct seal. I did not reattach the trailer breaks. Did not have time and just don’t need them. Also put on some new tires. The job was not that bad really. 1st hub took about 3 times as long as the 2nd one just from the learning curve. Bearings looked great and they did not need repacking but it was more for the POM.

Thanks for the help with the comments.

[mtajpa]

Originally Posted by IdahoSnake

Mission complete. Hardest part was finding the correct seal. I did not reattach the trailer breaks. Did not have time and just don’t need them. Also put on some new tires. The job was not that bad really. 1st hub took about 3 times as long as the 2nd one just from the learning curve. Bearings looked great and they did not need repacking but it was more for the POM.

Thanks for the help with the comments.

" I did not reattach the trailer breaks. " ?????

How did you address not installing the brakes? If you left the shoes off then the first time you try to stop the surge brake acuator will push the brake fluid into the wheel cylinder and then push the piston out causing all the brake fluid to leak out. Then the acuator will have a bunch of slop in it.

[Stx221]

After my wheel bearing repacking, I just put about 900 miles on the trailer this past week/weekend and all was well and functioned flawlessly.

I need to bleed the brake lines in a serious way with fresh fluid now though!

[IdahoSnake]

It rides the exact same as when the breaks were attached. After a stop it slams back when I go, I hate it. I am going to put a bult through it to "lock" it in place.