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Old 10-18-2015, 11:56 PM
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jamesmu2 jamesmu2 is offline
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Shaft Log Replacement 1991 ProStar 205

I have looked up a bunch on info on replacing the shaft packing with virtually dripless (rope packing) and also ordering the shaft log on Skidim, so I know where to buy parts....steps to remove shaft and coupler. What I was having a hard time figuring out was once the bolt is loose from the transmission coupler, prop removed... does shaft slide out? Also to remove shaft log and replace with new hose do you just remove the 2 hose clamps wrapped around log??

Here is a pic of what I got.
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Last edited by jamesmu2; 10-19-2015 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:11 AM
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Table Rocker Table Rocker is offline
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After the prop and coupler are removed from the shaft, you can slide it back or all the way out. There is no benefit to sliding it out of the cutlass bearing.

Remove the aft hose clamp and work the hose off the log (the part molded into the boat), the stuffing box (the bronze part) can stay clamped to the hose. Your dripless will come with it's own hose.

When installing the dripless, slide the shaft forward far enough where you can slip the dripless over the shaft and then clamp it instead of trying to shoot the shaft through an installed seal. You don't want to tear up your new seal.
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:24 AM
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I just edited my post to virtually dripless rope packing that skidim is selling. Its not virtually dripless whole piece. Thanks for the info Rocker, I am starting to get mental picture going. How hard is it to remove the coupler shaft bolt? I am hoping I can just fit a regular socket I have to loosen it.
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:30 AM
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I went with the dripless seal, so I have never repacked. You are replacing the stuffing box? I believe normally you replace the packing without pulling the shaft. You just remove the stuffing box nut and slide it forward to get to the packing.

The coupler shaft nut can be difficult. Keeping the shaft from turning while you remove it is the problem. A regular socket will fit the nut fine, there is room to slide it back on the 1:1 transmission.
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Old 10-19-2015, 01:41 AM
gweaver gweaver is online now
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This is probably one of the best writeups I've seen about replacing shaft packing:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box
It's really not too hard. I've done mine a couple of times, takes maybe 30 - 40 minutes, and that includes screwing up cutting the new packing. I use the Gore stuff mentioned on the link above, it works really well, but as soon as you cut it, it starts to fray- at least is does with me. I usually wind up tossing 1 or 2 failed cuts. Just make sure when you put the new pieces in, you put them in with the cuts offset by a third of the shaft circumference, to maximize overlap. (insert first piece, insert second piece so the cut is about one third of a rotation away, insert last piece again 1/3 rotation off.) Screw the packing nut back on and tighten so you get a drip every few seconds. I think mine drips once every 3 or 4 seconds. That will ensure the drive shaft doesn't overheat and get damaged.

From your picture, the shaft log, the black rubber hose, doesn't look bad, it may not need to be replaced- maybe a tightening up of the hose clamps is all you need if that's leaking.

As far as removing the coupler nut, I found a piece of 1/4" flat stock aluminum, about 12" long, drilled a hole at one end the diameter of the coupler bolts- 7/16"? Maybe 1/2"? Anyway, bolt that to the coupler and use it as a handle to keep the coupler from turning while wrenching on the drive shaft nut. I don't know about the 1:1 transmissions, but for my Powerslot, I had to machine down a socket to fit between the two halves of the coupler. I think the overall height of the socket I use is an inch. I machined flats on it so I could use an adjustable wrench to spin it.

I have a couple of pictures, but can't seem to get the links to embed.
Link to 'bar handle' https://goo.gl/photos/fLbmHsuwaHXb49qF9
Machined socket: https://goo.gl/photos/1uyoYFinE6zVc3o36
Socket again: https://goo.gl/photos/yVi5UFQUx9hzFgVV9

Good luck!
G
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Old 10-19-2015, 01:05 PM
Master Crafter Master Crafter is offline
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If you decide that you actually do need to remove your shaft coupler I still have some of the tools available that I have for sale that will hold the coupler. Search "coupling nut removal tool" or try the link below. I am not positive that it will fit your coupler exactly but even holding with one bolt will work fine. I gave the dimensions of the tool in the for sale posting.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=66601
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:01 PM
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jamesmu2 jamesmu2 is offline
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Thanks guys! I'll see about ordering that coupler removal tool from you. I figured I would do the shaft log since it is starting to show cracks on it, when I look really close I can see many cracks starting to form. When should you replace log? I would love to save for next year and not have to remove coupler and nut if I didn't have to!! I have only owned boat for 1 year and do not know the last time log was replaced.

Thanks.

Last edited by jamesmu2; 10-19-2015 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:18 PM
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The shaft log is a bronze piece that is fiberglassed into the hull of the boat for the shaft to pass through. It is connected to the bronze stuffing box (or packing gland) with a length of hose. Where are you seeing the cracks?

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Old 10-19-2015, 10:23 PM
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It's just the hose that I was seeing cracks forming. Rubber hose is showing signs of wear. No cracks on boat. Thank goodness!! Sorry for phraseology misquoting. My vocab for Mastercraft boats is growing every minute!!
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesmu2 View Post
It's just the hose that I was seeing cracks forming. Rubber hose is showing signs of wear. No cracks on boat. Thank goodness!! Sorry for phraseology misquoting. My vocab for Mastercraft boats is growing every minute!!
We all learn somewhere. I just didn't want an incorrect term to get you headed down the wrong path.
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