Stars and Stripes build, 1st post

[ctjahn]

Originally Posted by oldschool

I am the dumbest smart person here.. After fumbling with rewiring and replacing 90 percent of the electrical system it was a tube fuse in the dash. I can admit i'm used to the blade type fuses and have never owned a vehicle (much less boat) that uses these tube fuses. The alternator I bought was f'ed from the get go so that caused several problems. I'll certainly be changing the cap, wires, and plugs just to be thorough. Thanks again for the usual help, would've spent a bazillion dollars at the mastercraft house by now.

Due to experience, when ever I have an issue I test the glass fuses with a voltmeter....Even though visual inspection shows it is ok.... Learned the hard way.

And I think BlueSea Systems makes a replacement that is virtually bolt in. I did it (and the wiring later) because some prior owner re-soldered the board that the fuses install on but were still questionable..

cj

[DH9441]

Dont forget to replace the Flux Capacitor. That's key to a healthy engine. :-)

[oldschool]

Taking it out for a test drive. We'll see..

[oldschool]

Thing was running great for about a week there.. back to the help board :/ . While out on the lake the boat was just floating and when i went to start it, nothing. I got gauge hop and power to the dash but nothing to the block. To remedy this i bridged the two wires that connect to the transmission, and that allows me to turn the engine over but am unable to get any spark. Even after triple checking to make sure the boat is in neutral it still won't turn over without those wires being bridged. I have a new coil, just changed the cap and rotor, and had rewired the engine a few weeks back. I don't think my wiring is at fault due to it functioning previously. Still no spark. Open to any suggestions. Would it be possible the sensor went bad inside the distributor? As always, thanks for the great help.

[cbryan70]

Safety switch?

[you could of had a MC]

Don't for get the battery cables, no matter how good they look. Proper ground and good spark are the lifeblood of a proper running boat. Ive been there.

[oldschool]

figured it out.. distributor had teeth missing, had a bad neutral safety switch, and the timing was off due to the teeth missing. ended up changing the wiring, again, new valve covers, new alternator, carpet, pertronix distributor, plugs, wires, and now i get to winterize it.

[sxerob]

Nice! I have the same boat. Engine is running great, just looks ****ty. I have a problem with not leaving "Good Enough" alone and having it bite me in the ***. I will clean it up at some point.

Can't wait to see how this turns out.

[Lumbergh]

Nice work so far!

It always pains me to see something nice get neglected like that. The PO really did not care for that boat at all.

[j.mccreight@hotmail.com]

Originally Posted by oldschool

figured it out.. distributor had teeth missing, had a bad neutral safety switch, and the timing was off due to the teeth missing. ended up changing the wiring, again, new valve covers, new alternator, carpet, pertronix distributor, plugs, wires, and now i get to winterize it.

Just a word of advise or caution, make sure that air cleaner is coast guard approved and is a spark arrestor and also ensure you are running a PCV system on the engine valve covers, by the pictures one looks like a plug and not a pcv valve or breather. If you don't run a pcv system the engine will develope to much crankcase pressure and start blowing out gaskets, seals etc. also it will probably blow off that cap and just plain run very poorly. It should look something like this, you can either run an open breather (no external hose) or a sealed breather with a hose to the flame arrestor either way is ok on one side and the other side run a pcv valve to the bottom of carburator or intake manifold (where ever your big port is).