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  #61  
Old 07-04-2013, 01:28 AM
tim79mc tim79mc is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 1979 Stars & Stripes
Location: Northeast
Posts: 89
New fuel filter

I mounted the fuel filter in the left rear (sorry, I grew up around stock cars...) so I could access it. I needed to prime the filter and fuel lines so the pump could fill the carb, but once primed, everything ran beautifully. I had been concerned that the location (height) and possible restriction would be too much, but it seems ok.

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  #62  
Old 07-04-2013, 01:38 AM
tim79mc tim79mc is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 1979 Stars & Stripes
Location: Northeast
Posts: 89
Engine in

Water pump was removed and gaskets replaced, housing painted. T-stat housing replaced w/ new top hoses, U-fitting going to water pump also painted and re-tapped 1/4 NPT drain hole that was buggered up. Now, no water leaks! That's the first time in 10 years...

New alternator that actually works. It took some time to find it. Got an Arco 60125. I needed to space it out just a bit with a few washers, but it works great. I wired it with the sense wire, so I'm regulating at the battery terminal. New voltmeter reads 13.5V dead on. No more charging the battery every few weeks.

My quick change oil hose fitting was stripped out and siliconed in place, so I took that out, cleaned out the oil pan threads and replaced with one from overtons (#26163). My engine had the 1/2"-20 thread, standard Ford thread.

All of the electrical was rewired - another post for that...

The fuel pump gasket was leaking oil, so I replaced that as well. Decided against changing the fuel pump- it's still working and not all that difficult to change if I need to later.

The exhaust is hooked up and stable. Two cradles are lined with high temp silicone rubber to hold them off the floor. Works great.

Locating the engine mounts was the hardest part. Patience, patience...

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  #63  
Old 07-04-2013, 01:47 AM
tim79mc tim79mc is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 1979 Stars & Stripes
Location: Northeast
Posts: 89
Electrical Replaced

All (and I mean ALL) of the wires in the boat have been replaced. Adhesive heat shrink, good ring lug terminals w/ heat shrink and wire. I used Anchor marine heat shrink and that stuff was awesome.

I ran two conduits along the right side stringers, one for engine and one for transom electrics. The old conduit in the gunwale was too crowded and the engine pipe, well that one was useless, lying on the bottom of the hull...

I replaced several gauges and dumped the ammeter for a voltmeter. New hourmeter and oil pressure.


The fuel sender needed replacement - I tried to fix it, but no deal. New one works great.


All new electrical wiring on the engine. Relocated circuit protection and my starter has a built-in solenoid. Extra wires for whatever comes next... Depth finder is on the wish list.
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  #64  
Old 07-04-2013, 01:58 AM
tim79mc tim79mc is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 1979 Stars & Stripes
Location: Northeast
Posts: 89
New stern light!

I have wanted one of these forever. Now we can enjoy the stars with the stern and bow lights on, no bright light beacon and still have the option for anchor light if needed.

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  #65  
Old 07-04-2013, 02:00 AM
tim79mc tim79mc is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 1979 Stars & Stripes
Location: Northeast
Posts: 89
it's amazing what a buffing wheel can do...

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  #66  
Old 07-04-2013, 02:04 AM
tim79mc tim79mc is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 1979 Stars & Stripes
Location: Northeast
Posts: 89
Floor & engine cover support

The old floor configuration had an unsecured panel that could lift up to access the strut, steering cable clamp and prop stuffing. The engine hatch hinges screwed to this and it was always a pain to get access and the engine cover was not always secure..

I installed a cross member that the engine cover will attach to. 1 single removable carpeted panel, with 2x4 reinforcements on the underside will give a sturdy, removable floor section that's not attached to the engine cover.

If it ever gets in the way, I can cut and replace. I know how to do that now : )

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  #67  
Old 07-04-2013, 02:06 AM
tim79mc tim79mc is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 1979 Stars & Stripes
Location: Northeast
Posts: 89
Secure swim platform

Through-bolts are used for the swim platform. Before, they were lag bolts and the platform was a bit questionable.. I had to trim the u-shaped ductwork - not even really sure what that was for. Oscillating multi-tool made quick work of that.

Very solid platform now, carpet got put on tonight.

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  #68  
Old 07-04-2013, 02:37 AM
SSMoose SSMoose is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Boat: 1983 Stars and Stripes PowerSlot
Location: Southeast
Posts: 246
This is a great thread for restoration! I can't generate in myself the willpower necessary to replicate your work, but I am truly impressed by the results. You now have another 30 or so years to enjoy your boat then your children can do it over the same way. Wow!
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  #69  
Old 07-04-2013, 08:30 AM
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johnnye23 johnnye23 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Boat: 1979 Stars n Stripes
Location: Auburn Ca
Posts: 48
Wow you really really did a nice job ! I am in the middle of cleaning up my electrical on my 79 S&S and wondered if you ran your instrument ground all the way back to the engine or if you ran a separate wire from the ground bus to the battery itself ? I am having some instrument issues and I'm thinking running an additional ground from the ground bus bar to the battery may eliminate my issues . Thanks for all the great pictures
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  #70  
Old 07-05-2013, 11:21 AM
tim79mc tim79mc is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 1979 Stars & Stripes
Location: Northeast
Posts: 89
instrument ground

I did run a separate ground for instrumentation, separate from the #1 AWG engine block ground. The #1 AWG pos/neg goes to the starter and engine block. Another #8AWG goes directly from the battery to the dashboard. All of the grounds are distributed from the dash fuse block. I ran a #10 to the rear to the terminal block to breakout grounds. For instrumentation on the engine, the #1AWG serves as the ground as my sensors are all single-wire. They rely on the engine block for the ground path. The alternator is grounded to the engine block as well, on the same bolt that the #1AWG ground comes in. Hope that helps!
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