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  #1  
Old 05-22-2016, 08:56 PM
chmeyers chmeyers is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Boat: 2002 X9
Location: southeast
Posts: 6
Cleaning Tips Needed

So I need some tips, product recommendations, how to's. Whatever tips you'll can give me to clean my boat for the first time after sitting all winter. Its been outside but has a cover and has been under a structure. I checked it today and there is some mold on the seats and the red paint has some oxidized spots. I can detail the hell out of a car but boats are new to me. Also the tower could use a good polishing. So any tips on products for the tower seats and paint I'm all ears.


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Old 05-22-2016, 09:03 PM
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jamespjackson95 jamespjackson95 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Boat: 2004 X-Star, 1997 X-Star, 1994 Maristar 225VRS
Location: Southeast
Posts: 137
For the mold use starbrite mildew/mold remover. It will remove all of it


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Old 05-23-2016, 03:47 PM
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Fowlaction Fowlaction is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Boat: 94 Prostar 190
Location: Colorado
Posts: 111
for the oxidation if its not real bad you probably can get away with just a quick compound and wax. As far as waxes go I've always been real pleased with Collinite 920 and 925 or 3M products. for the mold the easiest way to kill it is to use a product with bleach, but if you have any color in your seats DO NOT use any bleach it will take the color out of them. I've only ever had real mild mold on my seats but if you leave them out in the sun for a couple days when its real hot and then use LA's Totally Awesome from the dollar store ( I know it seems like it wouldn't work) and a scrub brush most of it will come out and then go over the seat with a lot of 303 protectant.

if your looking for a couple helpful threads I would look into these:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=66817 (cleaning seats)
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=46985 (oxidation removal)
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Old 05-23-2016, 04:22 PM
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cookster22 cookster22 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Boat: 2004 X30, but REALLY want the X-14V!!!!
Location: Mountain West
Posts: 122
Fullpass provided these tips. Used it to the T last week and got my fenders and some spots on my boat looking great again. Good as new. 3M Perfet-It EX was great.

I will set you up for a glass like shine....3M is the product you want...3M bottles are numbered. You want two bottles of 3M. First bottle is labeled "3M #1" this could be used for cut and finish, but a second bottle is labeled "3M #3" to make it look like a wet glass shine. Buy a corded electric buffer from harbor freight, one that has a digital rpm indicator. Buff at 1500 rpm with first and second bottles, use a wool buffing pad that has velcro attachment. You can get like 5 wool pads for 5 bucks at harbor freight..they dont last long, just replace with new. Should clean fenders well before buffing, could use prep solve to clean fender surface before buffing...3M is kind of expensive...two quart bottles will cost 80/90 bucks....better than wet sanding though...you could just buy the #1 bottle and be perfectly happy, the buffer is only 40 bucks or so...The Good new is...get good enough with the fenders and you can start on the boat and look like a pro!
(http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...fect-It&page=2)

I use 303 on the seats and just did my first wax job with Colonite this weekend. Love how it went on and love how it shines up....after the 3M stuff!
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