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  #31  
Old 05-26-2012, 06:57 AM
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Philscbx Philscbx is offline
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I'm guessing the crack is under the exhaust manifolds at about the freeze plugs.

That's not that tough to weld with stainless wirefeed. Old tractors I've restored, there is no choice.
The entire side of block was cracked.

I use a very advanced miller welder thats welded frozen cracked blocks and manifolds.
Even manifolds missing their ears for a fastener were recreated from nothing.

Just as stated, the area needs basically rosebud torch to prewarm then weld an inch, preheat again, go another inch.

I had to learn the hardway when girlfriend left the water on at the cabin.
Faucets from the kitchen were in the living room from freezing, blew that far away.

The pump housing was another story, it was simply a pile of cast iron on the floor.
With stainless steel safety wire from working on aircraft, the pie shaped pieces wire forced together and brazed, preheated with 3 torches at the same time.
Still in use 15 years later. Another, they don't make those parts.

The engine doesn't need to come apart.
The air gap in the water jacket is more than enough space.
It's simply a tough place to get at in that zone.
So when looking for a welder, pick a small guy.

Do a craiglist ad looking for one, to local sources like Napa to find a guy.
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  #32  
Old 05-26-2012, 08:43 AM
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Jerseydave Jerseydave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philscbx View Post
I'm guessing the crack is under the exhaust manifolds at about the freeze plugs.

That's not that tough to weld with stainless wirefeed. Old tractors I've restored, there is no choice.
The entire side of block was cracked.

I use a very advanced miller welder thats welded frozen cracked blocks and manifolds.
Even manifolds missing their ears for a fastener were recreated from nothing.

Just as stated, the area needs basically rosebud torch to prewarm then weld an inch, preheat again, go another inch.

I had to learn the hardway when girlfriend left the water on at the cabin.
Faucets from the kitchen were in the living room from freezing, blew that far away.

The pump housing was another story, it was simply a pile of cast iron on the floor.
With stainless steel safety wire from working on aircraft, the pie shaped pieces wire forced together and brazed, preheated with 3 torches at the same time.
Still in use 15 years later. Another, they don't make those parts.

The engine doesn't need to come apart.
The air gap in the water jacket is more than enough space.
It's simply a tough place to get at in that zone.
So when looking for a welder, pick a small guy.

Do a craiglist ad looking for one, to local sources like Napa to find a guy.
I agree.....I think it's worth a try to weld it up if you find a good welder. 16 year old boat, why not try and fix her that way, even if it only buys you a season or 2. Should cost under $200 I would think.
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  #33  
Old 05-26-2012, 10:13 AM
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1redTA 1redTA is offline
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Originally Posted by Prostarski190 View Post
How much should I expect to spend on the block and where would be the best place to look? Can you buy the block alone or should I get the whole short block? Thanks
I purchased a complete running engine (2 bolt) for $600, check your local machine shops for a shortblock
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  #34  
Old 05-26-2012, 11:05 AM
Prostarski190 Prostarski190 is offline
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Originally Posted by 1redTA View Post
I purchased a complete running engine (2 bolt) for $600, check your local machine shops for a shortblock
Is it ok to use a regular auto small block for marine use? Thanks 1redTA
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  #35  
Old 05-26-2012, 12:02 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by Prostarski190 View Post
Is it ok to use a regular auto small block for marine use? Thanks 1redTA
All of these engines are the same base setup, then the marine manufacturer will marinize the engine for marine use. Yes, a block from an auto will work.

Good luck with the refurb. You're on the right track. Thanks Cloaked

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..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
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  #36  
Old 05-26-2012, 12:04 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philscbx View Post
I use a very advanced miller welder thats welded frozen cracked blocks and manifolds.
What advanced welder do you have for welding to this application? Make and model number?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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Last edited by Cloaked; 05-26-2012 at 12:11 PM.
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  #37  
Old 05-26-2012, 02:26 PM
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d2jp d2jp is offline
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Originally Posted by Prostarski190 View Post
Some people rescue animals. I rescue neglected MasteCrafts. It breaks my heart to see these awesome boats in such sad shape. I feel I got a good price, I felt I could replace the interior and engine and still make money if I sold it.
Even better!
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  #38  
Old 05-26-2012, 03:37 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
What advanced welder do you have for welding to this application? Make and model number?
Well? Just curious as to this advanced technique...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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  #39  
Old 05-29-2012, 09:21 AM
Prostarski190 Prostarski190 is offline
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LT1 high idle

Does anyone know if a brack in the block could be the cause of high idle? It's my understanding the idle is controlled by the ECU on the LT1. My boat idles at 1100 RPM's even after warm up. Any advice?
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  #40  
Old 05-29-2012, 10:28 AM
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Check the IAC (Idle Air Controller) or TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
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