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  #11  
Old 05-11-2012, 05:43 PM
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mzimme mzimme is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossterman View Post
Well, i could probably afford most anything but wanted to get something good but not over the top expensive. Using the computer shovpping anology, i'd like to find something with 80% of the quality at 50% of the price. Is there something better than the kenwood but not as expensive as the jl audio or wetsounds stuff?
Check the infinity basslink II.

Honestly, I think you'd be much happier with separate sub/amp components. Takes a little more effort to install it, but well worth the benefits. (clean sound, louder, etc)
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2012, 06:38 PM
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brucemac brucemac is offline
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I'm no expert by any means, but I'll share my advice and experience with a similar boat. Very first thing I'd do is 86 the clarion speakers. You didn't say what year, but I'm going to assume you have the component style sepeartes (the tweeters are in their own cups). I have an 03 X-2 (205V hull), so I'm betting the stock setup was similar. The newer JL 7.7's are very very nice, but they require a larger hole and the mid-driver in the bow requires a spacer due to mounting depth. Not a huge deal, but something to consider. The Wetsounds in-boats are nice, but you end up with a useless tweeter or hole as they're coaxial. I went with the Polk MM6501's and have been very happy. The tweeters press-fit into the white tweeter cups in the bow and the polk supplied cups fit in the cabin without modification. They're a solid speaker and marine rated. You just need to be sure you are running 100-125W RMS to each speaker minimum. The next thing I'd do is decide if your happy with the tower speakers. I went with Pro 80's, and have been happy, but I'm itching to upgrade to the new Rev10. Other's have been happy and rave about Exile, but I can't comment, they weren't around when I upgraded.

As far as the subwoofer is concerned. I'd skip trying to add anything under/behind the observer's seat. You won't hear it. Without any modification, the only thing you can do is go with a smaller sealed 10in or freeair sub behind the current kick panel. I don't know your listening habits, but I'm going to tell you that it likely won't cut it--at least the free air. The one thing I did wrong (twice!) is throw money at a subwoofer/amp combo that I instantly regretted and was unhappy with. I guess what I'm saying is do it right once and don't waste your money. The free air subs just aren't enough in my opinion, especially when they're trying to keep up with solid inboats and tower speakers. Your best bet is to work with an installer in your area to deign a custom box to either fit behind the kick panel, or design a custom box with a new false wall which may extend a little bit past where the current kick plate resides today. That's what I ended up doing. I went with a ported 10in Image Dynamics running at 600W RMS off of channels 5 and 6 on a Wetsounds Syn6.

It all really gets down to what you want from it, how much you want to spend, your listening habits, etc. I've been super happy with my setup and I really don't think you can go wrong if you do your homework. Just don't make the same mistake as I did and throw money at it incrementally. You'll be disapointed. Plan it, research and install it correctly the first time.

Good luck with it and have a great season!
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  #13  
Old 05-11-2012, 11:36 PM
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JRW160 JRW160 is offline
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I will respectfully disagree with brucemac. I have a 15" solo baric L7 under the observer's seat powered by a 1000w kicker amp, and it's plenty loud. If you need it louder, just flip up the top of the observer's seat. I have the stock sub disconnected. Under the driver's side seems like the ideal location for a sub, but I am pretty sure the 15" solo baric would rattle all of the screws in the dash loose after about 2 weeks. I just replaced my stock clarion interior speakers with exile 6.5s and they sound substantially better. They are running off a kicker zx 350.4. I also have rev10s on the tower powered by a syn4. I was running pro80s last year, and then upgraded to rev10s over the winter. The rev10s have a lot more midbass than the pro80s and are well worth the premium. I have a ws420 running everything.
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  #14  
Old 05-11-2012, 11:57 PM
Lakeside09 Lakeside09 is offline
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Nice set up JR... glad your supporting the exile interiors....

On my X1 I really wanted a killer/loudest on the lake tower set up... so i went with the Exile Xm9's with harpoon amp... they are unbelievable... and most cant believe how clear and loud they are... big wow factor!

I went with Polk for my interior and my sub/amp set up. We built a custom box and used the factory precut hole under the dash for my 10" Polk MM sub running from the Polk PA880 amp. It hits hard harder than any other 10 I have heard. I wanted to budget out my sub to where it sounded really good in the boat but wasnt loud and unbearable to where it killed fish... lol. I'm pretty proud of the way it sounds and the install... I also am a firm believer in Polk if your doing a budget install and in all honesty the price might be budget but i promise you the sound quality isnt. I am going to do a post sometime about my audio set up.
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2012, 01:06 PM
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Rossterman Rossterman is offline
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Well, did a little crawling around and found out the amp is an arc audio 5150 xxk 5channel amp with the followings specs:

4 ohms: 45 watts x 4 chan. + 190 watts x 1 sub channel (at 2 ohms)
2 ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan. + 190 watts x 1 sub channel (at 2 ohms)
4 ohms bridged: 150 watts x 2 chan. + 190 watts x 1 sub channel (at 2 ohms)

Looks to be pretty high quality with every knob/adjustment you could think of. So, was thinking of running the in cabin speakers (4) and sub using the amp and buying a separate amp for the tower speakers (4 arc audio lightenings). Maybe a bridgable 2channel with 2 speakers on each channel?

If so, how do i get rca outs for both amps? Do they make a y cable or do i need an additional piece of hardware (i remember as a teen something called a dual amp balancer)...

Thanks for everyone's help!
Ross
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  #16  
Old 05-12-2012, 03:35 PM
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JRW160 JRW160 is offline
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They make rca Y cables and a lot of amps have rca pass throughs.
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  #17  
Old 05-13-2012, 01:20 AM
agarabaghi agarabaghi is offline
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  #18  
Old 05-16-2012, 03:44 PM
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Rossterman Rossterman is offline
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Well, fiddled around with the existing components last night and it suddenly began working. Began going over the connections to make sure something wasn't loose or slightly corroded. Didn't find anything to speak of. Must say now that it is working, it sounded pretty good! Amp clearly has more power than the stock clarions can handle! I also hooked up a sub box I had lying around and that channel worked as well. Not sure if there is an intermittent problem with the amp (it has no fuses, just circuit breakers that auto reset if something is wrong) so will see if it continues to act up in the future. Good news is the Mfg is willing to repair or replace for $150 (retail cost of a replacement is over $600!). Now, I just need to get a sub and upgrade the stock clarions....

Read some good reviews on Polk Audio's stuff. Was thinking about using the MM1040D 10" dual voicecoil sub and DB651 6.5" coax's to replace the 4 clarions. Anyone used these or have any feedback on how well they work?

Thanks
Ross
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  #19  
Old 05-16-2012, 05:47 PM
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BriEOD BriEOD is offline
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I agree with Casey and Bruce, put the sub under the dash. I bought a 12" Kicker and put it in a sealed box. After I built the box, I had it sprayed with truck bed liner. Than I modified the kick panel to fit around the sub box. I have been very happy with it. I have no doubt that if you put a big enough speaker and enough wattage behind it in the storage compartment under the the observer seat you will surely hear it. That said, I'm not willing to give up all of that valuable storage space when the kick panel is such a viable option.
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  #20  
Old 05-16-2012, 07:11 PM
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brucemac brucemac is offline
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lots of folks using the DB series and have been happy...

will likely work fine with your existing amp too (assuming there isn't an issue), so wouldn't have to upgrade.

my advice is to take it out on the water and see how it sounds, make sure there isn't still something going on and then go from there

best of luck
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