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Old 05-10-2012, 08:28 PM
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Rossterman Rossterman is offline
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Thoughts on sub install for 205V?

Just bought my first mastercraft. Came with clarion M255' arc audio 600watt 4 channel amp, 4 6.5 arc speakers/ cans on the tower, arc equalizer, stock clarions in the cabin and a bazooka marine non powered sub enclosure stuck under the driver side bow cushion. I must say, for $2,500 it sounds terrible. Checked the sub and was 1/2 full of water and not working.

So, to my question, there seems to be a cutout for a sub in the drivers footwell- what do folks recommend putting in that would help improve the sound of this system?

Also, i think they have the 4cabin speakers wired to the head unit and the amp driving the sub and 4 tower speakers. Is this the best way or should i rewire differently?

Any thought or ideas would be great!

Thanks
Ross
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:08 PM
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You can always add an amp to the cabins to get them sounding better.......As for the sub. I took out my kick panel on the drivers side and built a custom sealed box using the template from the kick panel as the front of the box. If you spec the box right it will just slide in and out all in one piece.

HEres a real old thread with finished product

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=23421
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:13 PM
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[quote=Rossterman;838127]Just bought my first mastercraft. Came with clarion M255' arc audio 600watt 4 channel amp, 4 6.5 arc speakers/ cans on the tower, arc equalizer, stock clarions in the cabin and a bazooka marine non powered sub enclosure stuck under the driver side bow cushion. I must say, for $2,500 it sounds terrible. Checked the sub and was 1/2 full of water and not working.

So, to my question, there seems to be a cutout for a sub in the drivers footwell- what do folks recommend putting in that would help improve the sound of this system?

Also, i think they have the 4cabin speakers wired to the head unit and the amp driving the sub and 4 tower speakers. Is this the best way or should i rewire differently?

Any thought or ideas would be great!

Thanks
Ross[/

QUOTE]

If you want a lot more volume from the speakers that are connected to the head unit, you'll definitely need an amp. 50W won't be enough, even though you'll hear a difference in how loud it is. All of the speaker channels except the sub(s) should be run using the high pass filter. 80W-100W/channel would be a good number unless you want it really, really loud and that will be a good way to have PO'd homeowners and boaters in the area.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:25 AM
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Rossterman Rossterman is offline
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Looks like its cutout in the bulkhead accomodates a 10" sub. See kenwood has a sub/amp combo for $175 and other brands like JL and wetsounds are more money. Has anyone tried the kenwood setup? Is it worth spending more for one of the other brands?

One consideration is the old sub was powered by a arc audio 600watt 4channel amp (i'm thinking 2 channels were bridged for the amp (through the equalizer as it has a subwoofer volume control) and the other 2 channels were sent to the 4 tower speakers. Tried another speaker on the subwoofer wires and no sound. Not sure if there is a fuse blown somewhere or some channels of the amp don't work.

Was thinking if the amp turns out ok, i could add a descreet subwoofer amp and rewire the 4 cabin speakers (stock clarions) to the amp for better sound then i'm getting running off the head unit. Does this sound workable? I mean, can you connect two speakers to each channel (bow and cabin) to one channel on an amp without overloading it?

Thanks for all the help and suggestions
Ross
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  #5  
Old 05-11-2012, 11:40 AM
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mzimme mzimme is offline
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If you're talking about this subwoofer/amp combo, I have one in my car:



For a little car to add some extra bass, it sounds fine. I've had it on a boat as well, and it performs ok. I had it just under the footwell area of the passenger on an old boat I had, it wasn't sealed up or enclosed anywhere. It sounds good, and is a decent cheap option, but for some real hard hitting bass I would pass on the kenwood unit. The highs tend to drown the sub out very quickly if you have an amp on the highs. The sub just doesn't keep getting louder and hitting harder... just not enough power.

For $175, you'd probably be better off finding a budget sub and amp as two separate components and going that route. God knows my Jensen 500W amp and 2 12" rockford Fosgate subs hit REALLY hard in my mustang back in high school, and that setup didn't cost me over 200 bucks, haha. Did it sound good? No... Was it loud? Yep!

Last edited by mzimme; 05-11-2012 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossterman View Post
One consideration is the old sub was powered by a arc audio 600watt 4channel amp (i'm thinking 2 channels were bridged for the amp (through the equalizer as it has a subwoofer volume control) and the other 2 channels were sent to the 4 tower speakers. Tried another speaker on the subwoofer wires and no sound. Not sure if there is a fuse blown somewhere or some channels of the amp don't work.

Was thinking if the amp turns out ok, i could add a descreet subwoofer amp and rewire the 4 cabin speakers (stock clarions) to the amp for better sound then i'm getting running off the head unit. Does this sound workable? I mean, can you connect two speakers to each channel (bow and cabin) to one channel on an amp without overloading it?

Thanks for all the help and suggestions
Ross
How well the amp handles speaker loads depends on the design. Some handle it well and some puke as soon as they see 2 Ohms. First thing I would do is check out the ARC amp to see if it works at all, then how well it works. I just installed a Fusion Electronics amp yesterday and it was very good. Fairly new company as far as the US market but the MS-DA51600 puts out 80/ch x 4 plus 240 x 1 and it's bridgeable, has HP/LP crossovers, comes with a subwoofer level control, it's small, made for marine and is less than $400 if you buy it from some dealers. I like it and I'm pretty dam picky about this stuff. This one went into a Mainship 32' and it's connected to the sub, a pair of Fusion speakers in the saloon with two pairs of speakers (wired parallel) on the fly bridge. We didn't need to turn the volume controls for any of the 4 zones past halfway (we're using a Fusion Electronics MS-IP700 head unit).
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  #7  
Old 05-11-2012, 02:31 PM
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what's your budget
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  #8  
Old 05-11-2012, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucemac View Post
what's your budget
Well, i could probably afford most anything but wanted to get something good but not over the top expensive. Using the computer shovpping anology, i'd like to find something with 80% of the quality at 50% of the price. Is there something better than the kenwood but not as expensive as the jl audio or wetsounds stuff?
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:32 PM
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g-Dog g-Dog is offline
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I just got finished upgrading the stereo in my 2002 205V.

Alpine CDA-9886M $280
Alpine PDX-4.100M $370
Alpine PDX-1.600M $210
Polk MMC6500 (2) $150
Polk MMC690 (2) $100
Polk MM650 (2) $100
JL Audio 12W6v2-D4 $200
Alpine RF Remote $40

The only used item was the JL Audio sub which I found on Craigslist. It sounds unbelieveable for $1500. I wasn't too sure about the Alpine amps but I'm glad I chose them.
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:39 PM
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I've had alpine amps almost exclusively for the past 10 years. I love them.
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