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  #11  
Old 05-05-2012, 01:01 PM
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j.mccreight@hotmail.com j.mccreight@hotmail.com is offline
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Originally Posted by tex599 View Post
pulled the carb and will rebuild it. Also want to check the ignition coil, anyone know the normal ressitance?
1.5 ohm for a coil with an external ballast resistor.
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2012, 10:07 PM
glgisler glgisler is offline
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Haven't had a problem like this on a boat, but I had a 69 Corvette, and when I first got it, it would run fine, then after awhile, on occasion it would barely go above 20 mph. I would pull off to the side of the road, sit there 10 or 15 minutes, then it would run fine again, until it happened again. It was sporadic, so very hard to troubleshoot. After going through the inlet filters, the carb, and ignition, I finally did what markismm is suggesting to you - I pulled the fuel intake at the gas tank, and the screen was ~ 75% blocked. I cleaned it out, and I never had the problem again. I figured there was some debris of some sort in the tank that would gradually migrate onto the screen and occlude the remaining opening. Let it sit for awhile, it falls away, and car runs OK. Since the screen was so dirty, I flushed the tank out before I reassembled. So, if your carb rebuild doesn't get it..........
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  #13  
Old 05-07-2012, 12:13 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Anytime you bypass the basics when troubleshooting you end up chasing your tail(spoken from experience). If the points are of unknown vintage, they need to be replaced. They should be replaced every year or two. I would try to find someone to help you get the points replaced and the dwell and timing set first to at least rule this out.
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  #14  
Old 05-07-2012, 02:24 PM
tex599 tex599 is offline
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Thanks, that was my next question, any write ups on setting the dwell and timing?
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  #15  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:40 PM
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j.mccreight@hotmail.com j.mccreight@hotmail.com is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex599 View Post
Thanks, that was my next question, any write ups on setting the dwell and timing?
Its easier just to convert it over to an electronic ignition and be done with cleaning and setting points...
Its the best 100 $ you can spend for reliability...
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  #16  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:46 PM
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ccowell ccowell is offline
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No way the boat came with points.. that's what should be left in them. Electronic ignition never did any favors for me.
Its easy to dwell the ignition just get a dwell meter ( I got one for$5) and set it.
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  #17  
Old 05-08-2012, 08:45 AM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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Ive got a pile of dead EI modules in the basement... I never found a set of points I couldnt make run. And theyre cheap!

I agree that if you just start replacing parts and rebuilding things without knowing what the cause of the problem was, then youre introducing more variables into the equation and it is much more likely that you will continue to chase your tail.
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  #18  
Old 05-08-2012, 09:43 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccowell View Post
No way the boat came with points.. that's what should be left in them. Electronic ignition never did any favors for me.
Its easy to dwell the ignition just get a dwell meter ( I got one for$5) and set it.
Still driving the 1972 K10 with original points?
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  #19  
Old 05-08-2012, 04:46 PM
tex599 tex599 is offline
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Pulled the old coil, testing resistance across the two threaded terminals I get 1.8-2.1. Normal resistance should be 1.5 correct? If this is the issue, any of you ever replaced with a generic one from the auto store and if so any particular model/brand?
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  #20  
Old 05-08-2012, 04:48 PM
tex599 tex599 is offline
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Can I buy the points, rotor and cap from autozone or Oreilly's? If so, does anyone happen to know the part numbers.
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